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Otter outdoors fish house-- wind and temperature constraints


gowiththefloe

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Hi all,

I'm planning on purchasing a fish house to convert into an ROV operation tent in Antarctica. My concern is how high of windspeeds and low of temperatures these things can actually stand. I was hoping some of you could share your experiences. The two models I was looking at are

#2856 OTTER PRO XT900 XTREME THERMAL 900 DENIER RESORT PACKAGE

or

#2046 OTTER WILD T600 THERMAL-TOP LODGE PACKAGE

How windy and cold can it get for these tents? Looking forward to your thoughts.

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Well, before deciding on a portable, you might want to examine what you are looking for. The 1st option you listed has insulation on the entire shell, whereas the second is only on the top. If wind is a concern (which I assume it is), you will want the entire shell to have insulation. I hope this linking to manufacturers isn't against forum policy but this research is a life or death deal for this guy.

That being said, there are a few other houses that will have entirely insulated shells. I have no experience with any of the insulated houses personally, but my Father In Law picked up a Frabill insulated house last spring, and I own an Otter without an insulated shell. The rigidity of the house's frame will be almost as important as the insulation concerning strong winds, and I do like my Otter for that.

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Wow Antartica you say . Thats extreme I must say .I know and use Otter products and they are quality and have worked well for me and everything I have thrown at them but I'm not making any claims about Antartica . That's a rough place even if you were in a solid concrete building . Don't even think about a buddy heater because they are way too fickle and temperamental to stake your life on in Antartica .

TD

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If you can mix and match parts this is what I would do. Otter sled (best out there), otter poles (best, most durable, easiest sliding) and a canvas craft shell (best insulation nearly double what Otter has).

You can buy complete houses from Canvas craft, just google it and you will find their site. The problem is their poles are not as durable as the otter ones IMO. If you talk to these companies they may be willing to "donate" this for your endeavor in exchange for some publicity. Could be a win win situation for all.

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I agree with the insulated CanvasCraft. I did some research when I was in the market for an insulated portable and, from what I saw, they had the best insulation, so that's what I bought. I will also agree about potentially a problem in high winds. I would definately be talking to CanvasCraft (or whoever you buy from)about custom making some x-bracing for all 4 walls.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
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