Permanent Wood Stand

[2eyesman2]

Nice stand jay..and i thought i was the only fool to make a custom deer stand

[jay83196]

It was fun to make and do all little extras etc , I only use it last week of rifle hunting and muzzle loader so its nice when its cold to be wearing t shirt being inside hunting.

[Coldwater Crappie Guy]

Jay..

How much do you think you have invested in that stand??

[jay83196]

I kept most receipts and added it up once I would say around $1,500 - $ 2,000 including tv and camo chair I used a lot of green treated lumber, vinyl siding and nice windows that was biggest costs all walls/floor/ceiling were Styrofoam insulated but I got that free so that helped. It will last my lifetime so to me was worth it, maybe daughter can use too, when I tip over

I love hunting outside and hunt else where opener and first couple weeks but late season sucks to be cold or wet. I also built it so I can bow hunt on roof, ladder on back deck going to roof also can't see in pics but chair and camo blind up there too

[adamr]

I built my stand 16ft to the floor i used old power poles from the local power company they came out and drilled the holes for 100 bucks am sure glad i stuck em in the ground it seems high couldnt imagine if i had them sitting on the ground

[landscaper]

Very nice shacks guys!!!

[HOBBSTER]

Well, looks like I've got access to some old power line poles I'll use for the posts. 30" deep enough with concrete? Has anyone used these with any tips for framing to them? Thinking of 2x6 beams with 2x4 joists. Thanks, Hobbs.

[2eyesman2]

i would look at some joist hangers to attach to the poles to hang the beams on,maybe some lag bolts too...also don't get cheapo windows! i did that and replaced them the next year. when its cold out the cheapo ones frost up and you cant see out of them.. i bought 4 of these at a box store for 106.00 apiece.worked out great last winter

[jay83196]

I agree don't get cheap windows you want them to slide nice and not fog up. Bigger better for shooting through too...get them the right height too, mine are 36" off floor I think coulda been lower have adjustable chair in there that helps too...

[HOBBSTER]

I was planning to save the money and cut out fold down shutters from the plywood walls. I'll keep an eye out for windows though. Window sill height at 41" (Decided on this very scientifically. Sat in a chair, set up a tape measure 3 ft away. I'm 5'11" and will have an adjustable chair) Jay- You feel you would go lower than 36"? I feel 41" would be sufficient as my shooting zones are a ways away. Which means I'll have a deer come close when I'm not looking.

[Gordie]

I had some posts/tele poles in the classifeds if your intrested. They are 20 ft long

I would sink these pole at least 4 foot down and use a post cookie on the bottom and fill with sand or pea rock and soil you took out and you shouldnt need any concrete thats how the power co. does it.

I would use 2x6 for the whole floor frame you will not regret it.

Another great blace for windowas at really great prices is Building Materails Outlet (BMO) its off of HWY 55 south of HWY 13 great place to get materials for a stand build.. It well worth checking out

[jay83196]

I only say lower because if a deer walks within 10-15 yds I can't see it if you don't sit right in front of windows. Also want a good height to shoot from using window as a rest. I think the windows are the most important part of the stand glad I put nice ones in and they are nice size. Good luck with your stand.

[HOBBSTER]

Gordie- Thanks, but I'm able to pick up some poles for free locally. No concrete eh? Planning on 2x6's for the beams and joists. 2x4 or 2x3 framing.

Jay- Thanks. I'm watching a thicket and a pond from about 70 yards, I shouldn't have deer too close to where the stand is, I understand your point.

[NWBuck]

Agree with putting it into the ground...more work but will be well worth it. Also, I'd hesitate to tie it to a tree. That tree is going to catch wind and sway back and forth. Just my opinion...good luck!!

[HOBBSTER]

Stand is going on power line posts set in the ground 40-48" deep. It will be free standing. Did you guys find it easier to build walls first and hoist them up or frame them as you go once you get your beams and joists set?

[HOBBSTER]

Ok, so I took at look at the powerline poles and feel it would be difficult to set the poles and build the stand as I go with only a 2 day trip to build it at the land. With my plans for the deerstand using 4x4's, I will be able to build all the walls, roof, paint, windows, shutters, shingle, carpet and floor down here at my house before I go up to the land, thus saving much time versus setting the poles, measuring, leveling, painting and building on the fly using the powerline poles. I've designed the stand using minimal supplies (to save money) knowing the dimensions before hand versus buying what I think I need and having scrap left over if I used the powerline poles.

If anyone has tips using powerline poles for an enclosed stand let me know. Thanks.

I'll take pics and post as I go.

[HOBBSTER]

Here are some pics of what I have done so far.

Door Wall from the outside

Door Wall from the inside

Opposite Door side wall from the inside

Opposite Door side wall from the outside

I added the back wall and clamped the 3 walls together for the following 2 pics.

We have a tractor to lift the walls up to the platform that will sit on 5x6x16' posts (I got a steal of a deal on the posts at 1/5 retail price, otherwise I would have used power line poles). Setting the posts down 4-5ft and pouring some concrete to anchor. More pics to come.

[paceman]

Looks like you will be nice abd compfy this coming season! Keep the pictures coming, I like building stands.

[Mnfisher]

Very nice...you'll like sitting in it. I built one last fall and really enjoyed the comfort and warmth even though it was a warm hunting season (and windy). I used the same material for the walls/siding. I am a little worried that that particle board won't stand up to the weather, but did paint it (primed and camo) so I think it should hold up for awhile. If it starts to deteriorate, I'll put some kind of siding on it. Nice job!!

[HOBBSTER]

Thanks fellas. I think it's going to be a stretch to call it "hunting" in this thing after 13 seasons of motionless- hanging in the wind (often at my back, never fails) on open ladder stands.

I'm going to paint it for now and see how she holds up and if I find some cheap siding, I'll throw it on. I'm going to shingle the roof. I put a bead of Wood Glue (Tite-bond 3, waterproof)on every surface where I screwed wood together. If you guys have any tips, I'm all ears.

I cut the bottom of the back wall and opposite-door-side wall windows at 40" from the floor (I'm 5'11"), have a feeling that may be too high until I find a tall chair. So for the front wall I'm thinking 37-38" ish.

[jay83196]

You will enjoy being out of the weather if its cold or windy. I have an adjustable office chair in mine helps with height of windows...

[bigbucks]

What are your outside dimensions going to be? My plan is to at least get started on one this weekend.

[HOBBSTER]

Here are some more pics of what I have up till now.

Rodd- The floor dimension is 48" wide by 47" front to back. This is to compensate for the slant length of the roof (48" wide X 49" long), so I cut the floor and roof out of one sheet of 7/16" OSB. I have a 4" drop from front to back.

This is looking into the stand (un-finished)

This pic shows how I did the corners. The 2x6 is connected to the door wall. (wall running up and down in pic) so I left about 4 inches (3.5" + 7/16") to leave room for the 2x4 connected to the front wall, so the walls come flush together over the corner of the floor. The walls and roof will get put up to the floor in the stand separate. I'll glue and screw the corners together, the clamp is just holding them in place to give you an idea of how it comes together.

This pic shows the wall, opposite door side wall, just that I painted the inside of the window shudder as well to match the outside paint.

Now I have the insulation in place in the following pic. I'll attempt to paint it, but I'll also be covering it up with black indoor/ outdoor carpet to cut down on noise.

This is where am I at so far. I'll silicone the insulation to the walls, tack carpet over the insulation and am working on some "curtains" out of old rain jackets so I can slide into place if I want to block out rain/ wind while leaving the windows open. Any suggestions on "curtains"?

Just a suggestion, if your as precise as I am on blue print measurements, don't forget that pressure treated wood is a bit thicker than the 1.5" x 3.5" so I made a jig out of scrap 2x4 and 7/16" osb to give me the exact lengths I needed for my corner spacings.

Hobbs.

[jacobj12k]

Hobbster, don't go ruining rain jackets for curtains. Go buy yourself a shower curtain in whatever color you want. I know it is a stretch to use curtains for curtains, but I thought I would throw it out there. I would add weight to the bottom of the curtains so they don't move as much in the wind.

[HOBBSTER]

haha, yeah, I was over thinking it too much. I did think of a shower curtain after I added that post. I'm going to hang the curtains on a wire above and also below the windows so they don't blow in and keeps them tight in place and adding weights is a good idea, thanks. I'll add a few more pics tomorrow.

I've saved all the receipts and a bit nervous when I go to look at them, but I had some menard's gift cards to use up so those helped.

Spring time is not the time to buy treated lumber, these prices are about $1-$3 more per unit of treated than what I saw in the adds last fall when I first started checking on prices. So if your on a budget, buy your lumber in the fall when they cut prices for end of season sales.