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HOBBSTER

Permanent Wood Stand

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I'll be building my first permanent deer stand this year out of wood. Just curious to hear if anyone has any tips or thought of ideas on what to do differently or how they could have improved their stand after using it for some years?

I'll be using 4 4x4's for the legs and the floor will be about 14-16 feet up. I plan on having this enclosed with windows (at least able to put plywood back in the window place to keep critters/ water out)

The back side will be anchored to a tree for extra stability.

I'll use concrete anchor blocks to keep the wood legs off the ground.

Planning on painting the whole thing, would a deck stain work better as far as repelling water, or just black jack the whole thing? Planning on using pine instead of treated.

I've done some research as well and different sites have mentioned to use wood glue on all your joints. Help take care of any squeaking and help the overall strength and integrity.

In the process of designing "blue prints" and creating a materials list now. Any do's and don'ts would be appreciated.

I realize this is only a deer stand, not building a new house but just interested in others experiences. I've always hunted out of ladder stands.

Hobbs.

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I would put treated 4x4's in the ground a couple feet. The rest build out of regular pine. If in open area, they can blow over in strong winds. I use plexiglass 20" high that slide open in a frame I made myself by attaching the plexiglass to plywood that I cut out for window, so I can close or open when needed for warmth. Attaching to tree is going to make it creak as tree sways. 5X6 is a good size so you have room to move around with stuff inside.

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Thanks. The location for the stand is in the woods pretty good. I was leaning towards the concrete block anchors because there is so many roots in this area and I thought it would be better to keep the legs off the ground. Also, with putting the 4x4s in the ground, wouldn't they be more prone to rot, or pour concrete? I'll think about pouring concrete. They have those fast setting bags of mix where you dump it in the hole and add water, sounds easy enough.

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Before you put the legs into the ground coat the part that is going to be in the ground with thinned down roofing tar then wrap with tar paper and you will not have to worry about rot issues and I would do this even with tested posts/legs

Also when you dig the hole for the posts drop in a post pad/cookie this will help with the legs stay even with each other and help reduce them from sinking over time.

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If you don't have to worry about high winds just build it above ground with good cross bracing, and set on blocks. Easy to level out as it shifts over years.

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I built a 6+6 couple years ago works great I went way overkill 8 4+4 cemented in, cross braces and steel squarestock attached into ground on 4 corners. Still sways little but solid I wouldn't do any less its 12' up. I used glass single hung windows keep them low but high enough to shoot through and use as rests. It's so nice to be warm and dry when you want to be. Good luck, I also made,it so j can hunt in to p if I want I use a Mr heater buddy works great I built box into the wall to put heater in so wasn't in way, lined box with tin gets warm but not crazy hot. There was a couple posts back in late summer with pics you could look at .

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I used 4x6 green treat posts on the stand itself and 4x4s on the deck,,all posts are 4 feet into the ground,it has not settled in 3 years still level...

Here are some photos of my on going deer stand

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Thanks a lot guys. I guess I'm still leaning towards 4"x4"s on concrete deck anchors on top of some plywood so I can shim it. The platform itself is just under 4'x4'. Back side will be connected to a tree and I'm thinking about running some cable to anchors in the ground. Still drawing the blue prints and thinking everything over.

Hobbs

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Hobbs if your gonna be 16ft up I really would think about putting the posts in the ground even cables to tie it down are not the safest way to do it and because you have it fasten to a tree isnt the greasest anchor eithe rlike was staed with it tied t a tree it will creek ,make noise and you will most likely have to reattach it every several years as the tree grows and breaks or moves what you have built.

Its better to be safe than sorry. It would really suc if you built a great stand everything you wanted in a stand them come back after a storm or high winds to find it smashed upon the ground.JMO

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I'm with gordie, glad I did what Gordie would do, didn't know it in 1987, but my stand is still in place with 0 maintenance thru 2012, but it does need it now but 25 years, I'll take that anyday.

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I agree, avoid the tree that's asking for problems, even biggest trees fall I had huge poplar break up high fell on a ladder stand bending it. Go in the ground a couple feet and cement I have a heavy stand all green treated 2+4 and 2+6 vinyl sided paneled etc etc very stable.

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Carpet the floor or insulate it! I did not do this last year and every thing you drop, tip over or even rub on the floor sounds like a marching band coming through the woods.

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Eyesman- Stellar stand!

Thanks for the 2 cents guys, appreciate it. How deep down have you found to be sufficient to anchor your posts. You got me thinking now, if I look at is an investment, might as well protect it. Problems I'll have with anchoring the posts into concrete is;I don't have a water source to mix the concrete. Was thinking filling coolers, jugs and buckets with water an hauling them out. Also, I don't have a lot of time. I live in Mankato and this is going up by Mora. I'll have a 3 day weekend to assemble it (weather permitting). Planning on building the walls, floor, roof, cutting the support beams and steps, and pre-drilling holes and painting it as well here at my house, then haul it up there and put it together. Little leery on wasting a day for the concrete to set.

Just another thought, I saw at the store they have these metal anchor spikes where the 4x4 fits into and the spike is maybe 2 feet long that goes into the ground. But they seem kind of weak, so I'm thinking taking 2 pieces of angle iron say 3 feet long, weld the corners together so it makes a +, weld a plate on the top end with a welded 3.5x3.5" sleeve by maybe 2 feet long for the 4x4 to slide into and anchor it into the ground that way. Drill some holes through the metal square sleeve to bolt the 4x4 post to it. Thoughts?

Hobbs

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Pretty sure you can just pack sacrete in the holes & let it harden over time with the ground moisture. I'm sure I've heard people talk about doing that.

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This is a nice stand, but it seems so low to me. Also just out of curiousity when does one use a charcoal grill at their deer stand?

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40 inches is plenty deep and you can do it several ways add water and post mix then more water if needed mix up right in the hole or mix up the mud in a wheel barrow and dump in if you want to speed up the process of the mud setting up mix a little ice bite in with the water 1/8th cup first and this will help the mud set up faster.

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Also just out of curiousity when does one use a charcoal grill at their deer stand?

A few minuets after you field dress your deer Tender Loins need I say more. wink

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Dont over think it.. if you can get your posts past the frost line(about 40") you will be fine.With the proper bracing it should hold up,just dont involve a tree this will cause issues down the road.Like the tree growth and swaying in the wind.I had access to a back hoe to make the job go a little faster but a post hole digger would do,or a power post hole digger from the rental store. I didnt cement them in either justback filled them,just make sure it's squared up before you back fill and a good rain storm will do the rest laughfull-33096-17692-hootandholler2(640x480)

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This is a nice stand, but it seems so low to me. Also just out of curiousity when does one use a charcoal grill at their deer stand?

For the same reason i have a wood burning stove and a ceiling fan...because i can grinfull-33096-17694-hootandholler(2)(640x48

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Very cool, I assume you don't run a generator for your ceiling fan, perhaps incorrectly. I take it that your stand is in close proximity to buildings? Is it on a hill or a field edge or what? I would be very curious to see line of sight pics from the stand.

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Some pitures that may help with ideas, if I had it all to do over again I wouild lower side windows to see deer walking close to sides. Definetly use window shades/tint, sun is most likely going to be factor in AM or PM. Good Luck!full-24527-17712-stand132.jpg

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Very cool, I assume you don't run a generator for your ceiling fan, perhaps incorrectly. I take it that your stand is in close proximity to buildings? Is it on a hill or a field edge or what? I would be very curious to see line of sight pics from the stand.

The ceiling fan is run off a 400 watt inverter connected to a 12v deep cycle battery.This spring i will install a solar panel and a battery bank with a bigger inverter. The plan is to have direct tv in the stand grin As far as the stand placement,directly behind the stand is a ravine that drops down quite a bit..(maybe 50 feet at the very bottom) its a gradual sloop its not to bad to walk down. Out the front door are the farm fields, its in a good transition area between the woods and fields (Corn and soy) full-33096-17730-wp_000101.jpg

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