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DNR seedlings


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Wasn't aware the DNR was in the tree selling business Ken so good to know. Their prices are very reasonable. Appears you need to order a minimum of 500 in lots of 100 per species unless you get one of their package deals. Looks like a good deal for those who are thinking of establishing a larger sized planting.

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If you buy some of these spend some time prepping the soil and you will reap the rewards. If all you do it stuff them in the ground you won't have much long term success. If you work the soil a bit, maybe even put in some starter fertilizer, sum mulch and a stake so you can find the tree again you will be rewarded with a much greater success rate.

Here are some tips:

http://www.pheasantsforever.org/page/1/shelterbelts.jsp

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If you choose to purchase from a private nursery, be sure to ask where the seed was obtained from that grew the trees you are possibly purchasing! This is one of the most important aspects to consider before purchasing your trees. The trees need to be matched to your site to have the greatest chance to survive and prosper and make all the tree planting worth it.

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I am in the process of ordering a bunch of 18" to 24" spruce trees and some dog wood from my local conservation district.

They recommended that I should have tilled up these areas last fall and I didnt do that. I can pay to have them till these areas up prior to planting this spring. They will then plant and tarp etc.

Should I put this whole process on hold for another year so I can till this fall? Or try to till this spring and then plant?

This is all new to me, I have an acreage with a few existing trees etc and I would like to get something established but also want to make sure I do it right.

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Trees from a private nursery of the same quality and more often even better quality than the ones you get from a govt office. Remember that govt works from 8 to 5 and not on weekends for the most part...private nurseries are in the business 24\7. Quality and success are of the utmost importance for private tree suppliers. Please don't create a perception of questionable products if you buy from a private supplier...it is often very much the opposite.

Rundave...you will be fine. It is better to have fall site prep as it mellows the soil more by breaking down the sod and also provides better weed control, but if you can get at it early and till it a few times spread out a couple weeks, you will also get a good seed bed for your spring planting. Just make sure you get it prepared nicely so you have good "root-to-soil" contact...remember, air pockets in the soil will kill the roots so you want a good seedbed. SD really pushes fall site prep...for good reasons...but I certainly would not lose a entire growing season by waiting til next year. Did you get into some programs with payments and cost share? There are good options in SD and ND. If you email me your county, twp, rng and section number, I will take a look at it to see if there are any other options for you.

Land Dr

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Do you guys have any suggestions for what to use for a weed fabric barrier? I am really hesitant to buy anything from a big box store because of quality, and the fact that I need a lot of it. I have been doing some research and come across some stuff called Sunbelt that I can possibly buy locally.

As I mentioned earlier I purchased a bunch of spruce trees and dog wood. I could work with the conservation district to till, and tarp etc. but I don't have a big enough job/order to justify their prices so I am going to go about this myself. I would have to plant all the trees myself anyway as they don't do that.

So I have hired out someone to till and have that squared away. All that's left is to look for a good solution to use for the fabric barrier. The tiller is 48" wide, but the only fabric I can buy from the the conservation district is 6' and 3' wide. I am going to try calling some local suppliers and see what I can find, but thought I would try here for some advice.

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Not to hijack the thread, but another option for trees is the local Pheasants Forever branch.

I got a bunch of Black Hill Spruce from them a couple years ago. I have a pretty good sized yard, almost 4 acres, and I used these trees to plant a break between my yard and the corn field.

For weed control I put some round up on a sponge and patted the area around the trees, carefully. It worked well but have to re-do it a couple times each year.

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Do the 3' wide. Plenty wide for seedlings. Only 6" left either side of the barrier not covered from the tiller. You can always put a little timothy or hard fescue seed down the 6" if you want to plant something to keep the weeds down in that little strip.

Good Luck!

Ken

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Do you guys have any suggestions for what to use for a weed fabric barrier? I am really hesitant to buy anything from a big box store because of quality, and the fact that I need a lot of it. I have been doing some research and come across some stuff called Sunbelt that I can possibly buy locally.

As I mentioned earlier I purchased a bunch of spruce trees and dog wood. I could work with the conservation district to till, and tarp etc. but I don't have a big enough job/order to justify their prices so I am going to go about this myself. I would have to plant all the trees myself anyway as they don't do that.

So I have hired out someone to till and have that squared away. All that's left is to look for a good solution to use for the fabric barrier. The tiller is 48" wide, but the only fabric I can buy from the the conservation district is 6' and 3' wide. I am going to try calling some local suppliers and see what I can find, but thought I would try here for some advice.

runrave, do a search for 'Shaw fabric', I've bought from them several times. Not sure what you're planting but if you're planting evergreens, they sell 3 or 4 foot squares, labor intensive but they work great. You can also order the staples from them. If you're planting schrubs, the 3 foot fabric will work, and can be applied with a machine. Also ask your local conservation district about cost sharing. I planted 2000 trees several years ago, put fabric down over all of it, and they cost shared 75% of it.

I won't plant a tree anymore without fabric, it provides weed control and moisture retention, once I put the fabric down, I'm done, no going back for watering or weed control. Check that Shaw HSOforum, their fabric was developed for high plains tree planting, in other words dry. Spend the money and do it right the first time.

Just last night I was planting some apple trees for deer habitat, I put a 4x4 square around each one, I won't plant a tree without fabric around it anymore. The only thing left is some wire fencing, and then those trees are on their own.

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how is everyone's trees doing with the tough weather?

I would say most of my pine trees are looking OK, but over the last week I can see some starting to go brown in a hurry. I am able to water most of them and I have been doing it 2-3 days a week. But being I am on an acreage I can't get water to all of them with out a lot of effort.

Once they go brown are they pretty much lost? Anything else I can do to help them along in this drought other than water?

On the bright side my red osier dogwoods are going crazy. They were just little 6"-10" stems with no branches when I planted them and now they are 2'-3' tall with lots of leaves and branches. They seem to be pretty resilient, except my one leg lifter dog has burned a few. I cant wait for them to fill in. I planted them for the red color the branches give off in the winter and for the fast growth rate.

This hasn't been a good year to drop some serious $ on this stuff. I will definitely have to re-do a few trees this fall or next spring.

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If they turn brown in late summer/ fall, they are generally done. They are now called 'nevergreens'. Leave them there till spring to mark where a new one has to go.

Evergreens that turn brown over the winter months will most likely still make it. Needle burn is common in the winter if you had a dry previous growing season. They will push out their new candles and needles and drop the brown needles and carry-on as usual.

we have no way to water our seedlings and have lost about a 1/3rd of what was planted this spring. I'll take that all things considered.

Good Luck

Ken

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thanks for the feedback.

Its ironic that in 2010 I lost several evergreens from it being too wet, and now 2 years later losing trees to drought.

I guess I will just chalk them up as a loss. I might try to get some these trees replaced this fall from a tree farm down the road.

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actually late Sept. is by far a better time to plant seedlings... they root till the ground freezes and put more root on after the ground thaws... they generally are strong trees that grow faster than spring planted seedlings.

Good Luck!

Ken

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I agree. Just wish I could find 15 - 20 bare root techny arborvitae close by to stab in to replace some of the dark greens that bit the dust. Not impressed with their hardiness.

Had to laugh at your comments rundrave concerning the red osier dogwood. We planted them in the windbreak about 10 - 12 years ago. Birds absolutely love 'em, especially the berries. Now we have red osier dogwood growing by the barn, under the steps, by the house, in the fences, by the gas barrel, etc., etc. They're next to impossible to stay on top of. Got any of that dog pee? grin

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