Known issues with 1998-2001 Tahoe/Yukon?

[311Hemi]

In an effort to get rid of all vehicle payments I am consider selling the 03' Dodge 2500 and buying a cheaper vehicle ($4000 range). The 98-02' Tahoe/Yukons are towards the top of my list at this point as I need a 4 door for a couple baby seats. Obviously anything in this price range will have 150k-200+ miles. Just wondering if there are any major issues to look for or be aware of. I know the mileage is not good, but I don't drive all that much to begin with as this would be our second vehicle.

Would really like a pickup still, but not to many out there that have the larger cabs with 4 doors in this range.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Just the normal GM nickel and dime stuff.

Wheel bearings, rotted rear rotors, seized calipers, rusted out rear backing plates, leaking front axle sells, 4x4 issues, plenum gaskets, catlytic converters, water pumps, p/s pumps, alignment issues, fuel system issues, instrument cluster issues, blower motor resistors, canister vent valves, etc.

Every 3-5 thousand miles it will be something new!

[BoxMN]

What engine? I assume that is the old style with the 350? If so, I have the 350 in a k1500 and the only thing that really got me was the leaky intake gasket. If that many miles then it was most likely done already, and ideally with the newer gaskets (felpro?...) should not happen again. I think that is right, as I had my 98 k1500 done at about 55k and so far so good at 190k, and also had my 98 malibu done twice, finally I put in the felpro model.

The fuel pumps are also notorious, and at about 160k I simply put a new one because mine was whining quite a bit, and did it under my own control versus it going on the side of the road up north...

Knock on wood, but I still have my original exhaust... Been through one alternator at about 130k, and I think I had a frost plug start leaking early on, about 40k... Truck actually gets 17.5 mpg driving about the speed limit and easy footed on freeway, and gets about 14.5 around town, so not really that bad (3.73 gearing). 11.5-12.5 towing depending upon A/C or not.

My blower/fan is squeaking a bit now at a couple speeds, and my front end might be loosening up a bit, but not too bad yet. My brother thinks the steering is loosey goosey, but he has 07 silverado, heh!

If it is different body style, then sorry, this was all useless!

edit - after seeing airjers post, I remember also had to have the antilock brakes cleaned to get it to stop activating at slow speeds. After about 4 years it hasn't done that again.

[Jeremy airjer W]

I forgot about the overactive ABS issues.

[311Hemi]

Just the normal GM nickel and dime stuff.

Wheel bearings, rotted rear rotors, seized calipers, rusted out rear backing plates, leaking front axle sells, 4x4 issues, plenum gaskets, catlytic converters, water pumps, p/s pumps, alignment issues, fuel system issues, instrument cluster issues, blower motor resistors, canister vent valves, etc.

Every 3-5 thousand miles it will be something new!

Thanks guys. I am not sure exactly what engine would be in them. I know the 2000+ is a new body style, so I wasn't sure if one might be better than the other overall.

Airjer....you have me second guessing my options!! I am guessing there are not many vehicles in this size that you are aware of that have a better track record. Obviously I need to be ready for repairs with high miles, I realize that.

Maybe a 97+ F150 with the 4-door Crew Cab?

[Macgyver55]

Don't be discouraged! The last 3 vehicles I've owned since 1992 were GM SUVs. 2 were Tahoes and now an Avalanche. I generally keep them a long time, and none of them were/are a disappointment.

Its true that some GM vehicles suffer somewhat from "pattern failure" where the same things happen to similar vehicles. But, in some ways that can be good for a used vehicle buyer. You can research and know what to look for, what questions to ask about previous repairs and what to listen for and inspect before buying. You can also use this knowledge as a bargaining tool for price negotiations.

I wouldn't hesitate a moment to buy another Tahoe. I run into far more strange problems on customer vehicles with their many various brands than I ever do with my own.

[311Hemi]

Out of curiosity how hard are head gaskets to replace on these GM's? I have no problems wrenching on a vehicle, but have never done a head gasket. I have seen a few of these larger GM SUV's that are priced low as they say they need a head gasket.

Thanks Mac, that's a bit reassuring.

[BoxMN]

I do know that 97 fords with the "triton" engine (5.4?...) are waaay gutless. My uncle has one and it won't even get out of its own way, and his was not an exception, and it is not due to age or mileage, came that way, heh!.

[Macgyver55]

Head gasket on a 5.7 Vortec? Not really hard to do but not a very common issue either. Some times an inexperienced person might mistakenly assume a head gasket is the problem, when in fact it may be the intake gasket.

The company I worked for ran primarily GM 5.7s in at least 50 of their trucks. Most (nearly all) ran 200,000+ miles without ever having to pull off a head before trading them. Basically everyone of them had a lower intake gasket and a fuel pump at some point though. (I think I could do either one with only one trip to my tool box)

With scheduled coolant servicing we experienced very few problems with water pumps. Steering pumps were also a rarity, at least for us.

[311Hemi]

The one I saw with a bad head gasket was a 98 5.7L Suburban.

[pureinsanity]

Is there any good years of Tahoes lol

[Jeremy airjer W]

Airjer....you have me second guessing my options!! I am guessing there are not many vehicles in this size that you are aware of that have a better track record. Obviously I need to be ready for repairs with high miles, I realize that.

They are not bad vehicles. Any higher mileage older vehicle will need repairs. You have the benefit of know what the common repairs are so when they pop up they won't be unexpected! Keep on top of the repairs and it will keep the maintenance costs easier to swallow. Push off a couple of repairs and your tally will be out of control in a hurry!!

[Heartman]

Fuel filters. They cost less than $10 a piece, but when they go bad your fuel pump will fail, which is inside the gas tank costing some serious jing. The fuel filter on these vehicles is located right under the driver's seat along the frame, and can be replaced with minimal effort.

Suggest they be changed every 20,000 miles or so, to be safe. Cheap insurance at less than $10 a pop.

[bigdog]

I bought a 99 Tahoe with 350 engine three years ago, had 117,000 miles. Has 147,000 now. Have not run across any of the listed issues. Did have pinholes in the A/C line to the rear, cut line and capped it. Eventually replaced compressor as well. Other

[tcwin]

I have a 01 Suburban, same basic thing, since new and am at 169k. Other than routine maintenance (brakes, battery,oil, belts) I have replaced the front bearings, power steering hoses, power window motor (driver side), fuel pressure regulator, abs control module and inner tie rod. I have to fix/replace cd player and rear window defogger. Overall been happy with purchase.