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backlash control settings


bucketmouth64

Question

I was wondering between centrifigul brake setting, cast control setting, and drag setting, do you adjust to best control backlash? I know it's a combo of all 3. I don't think I am not getting the maximum distance when I am casting. What happens(I believe)is the spool is spinning faster than the line coming off because I see some loops on the spool that eventually comes out during the cast. But that(loops) always doesn' happen so small backlash happens. Happens more with regular line than braid. So I increase the cast control which reduces my distance. So I thought I was throwing too hard so I decrease the force of my throw. Should I be turning on more centrifigul brakes(I have mine set at 2 out) or do I increase cast control or drag? I remember reading something in a magazine about minimizing backlashes by increasing/decreasing cast control/drag. I just can't remember which to adjust in certain backlash situations and when brakes come into play.

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Drag does absolutely nothing to help control backlash.

The best way to setup a baitcasting reel correctly is hold the rod horizontal and let the lure hang a few inches below the tip. Put the reel into free spool and adjust the spool tension knob so the lure drops at a slow soft pace and when it hits the floor the spool stops immediately.

The cetrifugal/magnetic brake adjustment is to adjust to the wind conditions. Find a sweet spot and adjust up or down depending on conditions.

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I disagree with you slightly Caman that drag has nothing to do with backlashing. Try backing your drag all the way off once and notice the difference in how line comes off the spool. Drag does have the least to do of the 3, and you should set it appropriately for fighting/landing the fish first, so it is what it is. For a little more detail on the other two settings, the centrifugal brakes (or magnetic on some reels) has more effect on overrun at the beginning of the cast, while the cast contol knob (direct pressure on the end of the spool shaft has greater effect on overrun experienced at the end of the cast. So to simplify, if your reel overruns early on, set another brake. If the overrun occurs at the end of the cast tighten your cast control. For casting distance set both on the lighter set and learn to control more with your thumb. As Caman says wind has a lot to do with it and the weight/air resistance of the bait you are throwing.

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Are you ever going to fish with the drag backed all the way off? Doubt it...

The drag adjusts how much the spool slips when the handle is engaged. When properly set up it changes nothing when the reel is in freespool.

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Thumb is the best way to control a cast, takes some learning but well worth it IMO to have all the brakes off and cast control backed all the way off. FYI I run all my baitcasters this way and just started using baitcasters about 6 years ago.

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With centrifugal brakes, I tweak my cast control. With magnetics, I'm tweaking my magnetic brakes.

If you're getting backlash in the middle of your cast, adjust your brakes. If you're getting line overrun at the end of your cast, train your thumb or increase the cast control.

Drag adjusting is not going to help me with backlash, unless I'm picking the backlash out.

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3 pins out is a good start, 4 pins out on 12 pin systems. Each reel has it's own individual quirks, so this is a general place to start for med to heavy cranks and jigs.

Set the magnetic at about 50% and then do your main centrifugal to the specific lure your tossing about. Recalibrate if you see over-run at the end of the cast...increase to limit it, decrease the magnetic setting a click if your feeling too stifled on your cast.

Remember to adjust primary overrun after each lure change. The spool engaged and the bounce test is still a good way to check your settings. Windy days I set it grudgingly on the bounce to lessen the freaky velocity changes due to wind mid cast.

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3 pins out is a good start, 4 pins out on 12 pin systems. Each reel has it's own individual quirks, so this is a general place to start for med to heavy cranks and jigs.

Set the magnetic at about 50% and then do your main centrifugal to the specific lure your tossing about. Recalibrate if you see over-run at the end of the cast...increase to limit it, decrease the magnetic setting a click if your feeling too stifled on your cast.

Remember to adjust primary overrun after each lure change. The spool engaged and the bounce test is still a good way to check your settings. Windy days I set it grudgingly on the bounce to lessen the freaky velocity changes due to wind mid cast.

I'm not saying but I'm just saying, It took a cat guy to explain this. smile

Duck and Roll. smile

PS: I'm really good at taking bird nests out.

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"3 pins out is a good start, 4 pins out on 12 pin systems." Pins? What pins? I don't know what you mean. Please educate me.

Ron.

Reels with centrifugal systems have nylon pins that hit a rub rail to slow the spool. My guess is you may have one with magnets. All Shimano baitcasters I believe have centrifugal.

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Thumb is the best way to control a cast, takes some learning but well worth it IMO to have all the brakes off and cast control backed all the way off. FYI I run all my baitcasters this way and just started using baitcasters about 6 years ago.

same same here. my friends taught me on an old Abu Garcia 6400. they put it in my hand and they told me I didn't need all the wiz bang gizmoz on a reel. They told me to use my thumb. I now have a half dozen Abu's and cast just as far as the next guy.

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Tony did you get your reel tuned in now. Got the pin system down?

Thanks for asking Ed. I went out today and pushed out 2 more pins and that did the trick. I could cast normally and didn't have the backlash problems. My range didn't change much (seemed like it improved) and I used some lighter lures that normally caused the problem. Those vidoes were good, especially the one on how to get a backlash out. Never heard that one before and will have to try it next time it happens.

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Great to hear...once you tune it the rest is easy.

The backlash removal trick deal is good. I have long used a similar method. I reel up line after the FUBAR and then push the cast button and lay my thumb on the line and then gently pull it out, pick the snag if need be, then repeat the reel up and pull again tell it's all clear.

Mono is easier them braids to do this trick with. Just do not pull very hard on braids right off the bat when you get the FUBAR..or it will dig in like a tick... and then you have a real problem.

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Thank you to all who have posted on this thread. I have learned a lot about nests, both freeing and avoiding, due to the posts and vids here. Saved a bunch of headaches.

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