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e-collar question


fishnhuntnboy

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When is a good age or how early can you start e-collar training? I have a 5 1/2 month old pup and i dont want to use it if its to early.

Also one more quick question, how do you break a dog of digging? she digs all the time and only around the foundation of the house. So i am wanting to try and break her of it.

Thanks for the help.

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You may get 6 different answers if you ask 6 different people this, but most trainiers seem to agree on the 6mo to 1yr mark. It's as much about the dog having a set of commands mastered(or more) as it is about exact age.

Make sure you properly "collar condition" your pup using a specific plan from a reliable source and make sure you use the collar to enforce known commands, as opposed to attempting to stop unwanted behavior or non-compliance with a command the pup doesn't have mastered or didn't hear/comprehend(I've made that mistake). For example, "sit" means sit, period. "No" is vague and often leaves the dog unsure of what was done wrong.

Have the dog wear the collar to get used to having it on before you start using it(which is really the first step in collar conditioning). You could certainly start that now!

Hope that helps.

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When is a good age or how early can you start e-collar training? I have a 5 1/2 month old pup and i dont want to use it if its to early.

Also one more quick question, how do you break a dog of digging? she digs all the time and only around the foundation of the house. So i am wanting to try and break her of it.

Thanks for the help.

Ditch makes a good comment there right away. "You are going to get 6 different answers".

I would suggest using the "search" engine on this site and you will find more than you want when it comes to "collar" questions and topics.

Good Luck

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As far as digging goes, whenever the dog digs a hole, fill the hole with water, bring the dog over to the hole and hold its head under the water. A few times, maybe even once and they'll get the idea. Just make sure you hold its head under the water a long time. JUST DON'T DROWN IT! Sounds mean but it works.

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I wouldn't do the head under the water thing. That might have the dog scared of its own shadow eventually... Put the schock collar on him now and make sure he associates it with play or something that he likes.

Eventually when you feel he is old enough put it on its lowest setting and ONLY use it when he needs a correction. All you should see out of the dog is a response. Make sure that you follow through with the correction. Give him a little jolt, walk over and say no so he knows not to do that. Make sure that if you correct him once to be consistant with it.

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As far as digging goes, whenever the dog digs a hole, fill the hole with water, bring the dog over to the hole and hold its head under the water. A few times, maybe even once and they'll get the idea. Just make sure you hold its head under the water a long time. JUST DON'T DROWN IT! Sounds mean but it works.

Horrible advice, how in the world do you think the dog would understand the correction? Would love to hear your theory

How about catching the dog in the act, grabbing him by the scruff, give a firm shake and say " NO digging" Shouldn't take long for the dog to figure it out.

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My lab loved to dig holes - I accompanied it with being bored. I bought a bunch of cheap chew toys and she seemed less prone to dig.

Another trick is to throw their waste into the areas they dig holes. Most dogs hate their own, but love to roll in others. Try that and see if it works.

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Thanks for all the replies. I will get that collar on her to get use to it. Now when i put it on her, should the box go to the side of her neck or below it kinda by her throat or does it matter? Then also i can use it for correction like digging or if im in the field and she completely ignores me and to get her attention.

With the digging i will have to try a few of the things mentioned. I like the [PoorWordUsage] one but right now she eats her own [PoorWordUsage] lol. Vet said its just a winter thing so hopefully she will stop or i'll have to get that poweder that ironically makes her [PoorWordUsage] taste bad lol. I think the main reason she does it is because she is bored so I will have to get some more toys for her to play with outside.

Now i am planning on putting up a invisable fence, could i put it up and make it so she cant go to the edge of the house and dig because its only around the foundation she will dig. I am guessing this will break that habbit too but then again if it dont then it was a waste of time.

thanks for all the help

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I think that most digging is out of boredom. I can tell if I am not working my dog enough, both physicaly and mentaly, because she starts to do bad things. Not digging, but tearing things up, barking, etc. If I challenge her, with a little training, running, etc, and these things seem to clear right up.

I have seen some people who have significant problems with digging to take a piece of mesh or chicken wire, and stick it in the bottom of the hole. Cover it with dirt. This will hurt their feet and they will stop. I have not tried it, but would think it would work.

I have also seen guys who have a collar with the "tone" uses this in training long before they use it with the "shock" feature. It helps to condition the dog, while also using a nice feature of the collar.

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New dog owner here so take this advise for what it's worth. You have to catch them in the act and scold them for them to know what it is you're mad about. If Schultz gets into the garbage outside and I come outside later I might as well give him a treat because he's already past the garbage and onto the next thing by then.

As far as the e collar I think it's important to not just put it on and start shocking away. My buddy did that to his dog because she barked a lot and now when he puts the collar on she's very timid. When I get a collar for my pup I'm going to put it on everytime we go outside to train so hopefully when the collar goes on he gets excited to go out and play with the dummy. And be patient with the dog, just because you have the fear of God in him now with the e collar doesnt mean you should use it every time he stops to smell the roses.

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I'm with you Farmboy. A tired dog is a good dog.

My dogs get inventive when bored. Tire them out or challenge them and they are good for a few days.

I don't disagree on the tone issue but chose to look at it differently. Giving them a tone before the shock is giving them a chance to chose or negotiate. IMO, dogs can count, and will learn that they don't need to listen until after the tone.

Not saying it's wrong, just giving the other side. Heck, I often give a command multiple times before resorting to the collar. But I'm not looking for the perfect hunting dog and I'm fine with a dog that reacts that way.

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I don't disagree on the tone issue but chose to look at it differently. Giving them a tone before the shock is giving them a chance to chose or negotiate. IMO, dogs can count, and will learn that they don't need to listen until after the tone.

Good Point. Had not thought of it that way. I am a firm beliver in giving one command and immediate reinforcement, so no correction could be a bad thing.

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All I can say is invest in a good training program, there is SOOOOO much more to E-collar training than straping the colar around the dogs neck and getting him used to it befor you turn it on. An ecollar is nothing more than a tool. If you can join a club, attened a training day or a FT or HT. And if you can contact as reputable pro in your area Ect.

I think the main reason she does it is because she is bored so I will have to get some more toys for her to play with outside.

Nothing worse than a bored unsupervised dog, I personally don't leave mine unattended outside and I work them most days so bordum has never been a problem. A good dog is a tired dog not only physically but mentally as well, most dogs love to have a job and thrive in an advirment where there challenged both physically and mentally.

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I have maintained from the day E-collars came along that before a "trainer" can put one on a dog and use it, the trainer must undergo a thirty-minute simulated training exercise with another handler while WEARING the collar.!!

They are indeed a useful tool.Understand it and how to use it and be kind to your friend.

Me n' my old pals tend to stay away from hunts and events where they are being used because too often we see terrible abuse of them and one of our gang will want to take the tool away from the "trainer", shove it where the sun won't shine and LOCK the button.

Jeeeeeez. Hope I didn't offend anybody.LOL

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Thanks for all the replies. I will get that collar on her to get use to it. Now when i put it on her, should the box go to the side of her neck or below it kinda by her throat or does it matter? Then also i can use it for correction like digging or if im in the field and she completely ignores me and to get her attention.

With the digging i will have to try a few of the things mentioned. I like the [PoorWordUsage] one but right now she eats her own [PoorWordUsage] lol. Vet said its just a winter thing so hopefully she will stop or i'll have to get that poweder that ironically makes her [PoorWordUsage] taste bad lol. I think the main reason she does it is because she is bored so I will have to get some more toys for her to play with outside.

Now i am planning on putting up a invisable fence, could i put it up and make it so she cant go to the edge of the house and dig because its only around the foundation she will dig. I am guessing this will break that habbit too but then again if it dont then it was a waste of time.

thanks for all the help

Move the "box" over on the strap so that it is right next to the latch. Doing this will allow you for proper placement of the collar and that is on the side of the neck and NOT underneath the jaw.

GOOD LUCK

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Move the "box" over on the strap so that it is right next to the latch. Doing this will allow you for proper placement of the collar and that is on the side of the neck and NOT underneath the jaw.

GOOD LUCK

Can you elaborate?

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Thanks for all the help guys. I am going to look around for some clubs and trainers. And now that I am back at work I am thinking of sending her off to school because I wont have enough time to train her. Plus she is a little gun shy and I dont want to mess it up.

What I think the guy was sayin is that you can move the shock box to where the buckle is. I kno on mine i can move it on the strap.

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I have a Tritronics Pro 100 G3 series collar. Now on some you can not do this but on most Tritronics model I believe you can.

The strap can be completely removed from the "box". When placing the strap back thru the loops, sort of speak, pull the entire strap thru so that 98% of the strap is on one side of the "box" and that the "box" is as close to the buckle portion as possible.

By doing this the collar will "position" itself in the correct place on the side of the dogs neck rather than you trying to "twist" the collar over to the side all the time.

Hope that helps.

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I have a Tritronics Pro 100 G3 series collar. Now on some you can not do this but on most Tritronics model I believe you can.

The strap can be completely removed from the "box". When placing the strap back thru the loops, sort of speak, pull the entire strap thru so that 98% of the strap is on one side of the "box" and that the "box" is as close to the buckle portion as possible.

By doing this the collar will "position" itself in the correct place on the side of the dogs neck rather than you trying to "twist" the collar over to the side all the time.

Hope that helps.

That is what I thought you were saying but it seemed so foreign to me that I wasn't sure what I was reading.

Wouldn't gravity work against you? On mine, gravity would cause the box to naturally move to the bottom.

As with anything, there is more than one way to do things. I've never heard of this and never seen anyone mount the box this way. Is it a Tritronics thing?

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Ok, did some surfing. From the Tritronics manual

Insert the collar strap through all three belt loops on the receiver and snug the strap against case. Place the collar strap in the middle of the dog’s neck. The receiver should be on the underside of the neck although on some dogs the receiver will naturally seek a slightly off-center position. The receiver light should face forward (towards the dog’s nose). The charging contacts should face backwards (towards the dog’s chest).

Tighten the buckle by holding it with two fingers as you pull the strap snug. Remote training collars must be put on a dog quite snugly to ensure consistent contact and reliable stimulation. Do not put any fingers under the strap as you tighten it.

I guess I don't understand why someone would mount it on the side of the dogs neck. I would imagine that doing so would put a lot of pressure from the strap onto the dogs throat.

I would recommend following their instructions.

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That is what I thought you were saying but it seemed so foreign to me that I wasn't sure what I was reading.

Wouldn't gravity work against you? On mine, gravity would cause the box to naturally move to the bottom.

As with anything, there is more than one way to do things. I've never heard of this and never seen anyone mount the box this way. Is it a Tritronics thing?

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Kyhl,

there is a reason they allow you to move the strap one way or the other. In some cases you can snug the strap up only so much before you are, as you might have mentioned, affecting air intake. By placing the "box" on the side I get the desired result without "choking" my boy. Believe me when I say this, I was tightening the collar so much in order to get the desired result when applying pressure that I was in fact closing his air passage.

One other thing to consider, the Pro that instructed me to do this is known nationally, has multiple National wins, both in the States and in Canada and most certainly has more field work with these collars than the person who wrote the manual. I do not mean this to sound deragatory in any way, it is just a fact.

As you also mentioned, read the manuals AND talk to some training professionals, these suggestions are always a very good idea.

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Heres a couple of pictures to show what Wade is talking about, same thing I was shown and taught, basically the collar "box" should be just behind or slightly below the ear, easyiest way to achive this is to slide box close to buckle, buckle stays on top, snug the collar up and pull loose skin underneath prongs forward. Collar stays put where it belongs and you don't have to have it real tight, I also like the longer prongs that come with the collar and I have labs.

1194692265_SPa5o-M.jpg

1194693170_bwch8-M.jpg

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