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Strikemaster problem(one I haven't read about yet)


shadypaddler

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So I go to start my auger up Sunday, pull the string and as it starts going back in the wheel that holds it pops off inside the engine. I've tried to get inside(looks like it would be easy)pulled the screws off the top I can't get into at all to see the real problem. It looks as if the wheel was completely sheared off. I'd like to avoid making the drive to Strikemaster, but realize I may have to. I'm looking for the secret way into the machinge or any other advice.

Thanks,

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So I go to start my auger up Sunday, pull the string and as it starts going back in the wheel that holds it pops off inside the engine. I've tried to get inside(looks like it would be easy)pulled the screws off the top I can't get into at all to see the real problem. It looks as if the wheel was completely sheared off. I'd like to avoid making the drive to Strikemaster, but realize I may have to. I'm looking for the secret way into the machinge or any other advice.

Thanks,

Sounds like you may have sheared the recoil off. How new is it? It should be relatively easy to get the recoil off by just taking a few bolts out. My older strikemaster was, but I have a new one now and havent really looked at it.

If you do get it apart it will likely end up in many pieces those dang things unwind themselves and you have a mess. I usually have many failed attempts to get them back together and then just bring it to my dad. LOL

The recoil is the weak link on these little two stroke motors. Lots of compression there and everyone pulls the rope out too far and it puts a lot of stress on them. Once you get it fixed really try short pulls and if it has it use the decompression button.

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So I go to start my auger up Sunday, pull the string and as it starts going back in the wheel that holds it pops off inside the engine. I've tried to get inside(looks like it would be easy)pulled the screws off the top I can't get into at all to see the real problem. It looks as if the wheel was completely sheared off. I'd like to avoid making the drive to Strikemaster, but realize I may have to. I'm looking for the secret way into the machinge or any other advice.

Thanks,

Did the recoil rope separate from the recoil wheel?

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the auger is 5 or 6 years old. And I agree that it looks like the two red pieces that make up the housing should come right apart, but they are fused together. If I take out more screws I'll have the thing in way more pieces than I can handle. and i don't have a dad to take it to, lol.

The rope is half in the wheel and the other half is hanging out. But the wheel is jammed inside almost sideways.

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I pulled the rope out of mine last year. Besides the obvious bolts on the starter housing, if I remember correctly, I had to cut the decal on top of the starter housing as well as remove the bolts that secure the gas tank to the engine in order to completely remove the starter housing from the engine. It sounds like the centering bolt that secures the starter recoil wheel to the top of the housing has come out or has failed. Hope this helps.

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Sounds like you had the same thing happen that I have had the last two seasons. To me it sounds like the material broke inside, sounds like you will need the whole new recoil assembly including the cover. Get the Credit Card ready, I believe the last one was around $80. The cover is easy to get off, you need to take off the gas tank and the air filter, along with a couple other bolts to geta good look at it. Take it apart and see what the problem is, then call their customer service and get a new one coming and reinstall. It is easy to reinstall, just frustating. If it happens to mine again this year, it will go up for sale and a Jiffy will be bought. I have not been impressed with my Lazer Mag Express, 3 years old and 3 new recoils. I handle my equipment with care, the paint is still on the auger itself.

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If it's the same as the Lazer Mag Xpress housing, all you need to do is cut the decal, remove the 3 bolts, and cut a little slit in the plastic loop on the gas tank that goes over/around one of the three bolts holding the top on. That will allow you to remove the top without completely removing the gas tank. It's really easy, takes about 5 minutes max.

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I'd call SM and see where the closest shop would be for authorized repair or warranty work . I've had very few problems but whenever I did have an issue, I'd take it to L&M Supply (Hibbing) which is only 5-6 miles away. Fixed in no time and back out on the ice drilling holes!

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Thanks for all the responses and ideas on how to take care of this. I'll try to get the thing apart again to [PoorWordUsage] the situation better. It seems to me that this is not something that should fail on the machine, but whatever I guess I'm going to have to pay some money. Thanks again.

Shady

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How is the word assess poor word usage? If I was talking about people with big [PoorWordUsage] I can understand, but assess. Is assessment a poor word usage because it has the word assess in it. If I'm doing an assessment of [PoorWordUsage] maybe, but seriously give me a break.

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Sounds like you had the same thing happen that I have had the last two seasons. To me it sounds like the material broke inside, sounds like you will need the whole new recoil assembly including the cover. Get the Credit Card ready, I believe the last one was around $80. The cover is easy to get off, you need to take off the gas tank and the air filter, along with a couple other bolts to geta good look at it. Take it apart and see what the problem is, then call their customer service and get a new one coming and reinstall. It is easy to reinstall, just frustating. If it happens to mine again this year, it will go up for sale and a Jiffy will be bought. I have not been impressed with my Lazer Mag Express, 3 years old and 3 new recoils. I handle my equipment with care, the paint is still on the auger itself.

3 recoils in 3 years? Are you using the decompression button. That's why it is there so that you don't break the recoil. It should be used to start the unit and to shut it off. It keeps the herky jerky down when the motor stops and starts so it is not hard on the recoil.

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My buddy bought a new Solo last year and did the same thing on the 1st time out of the box. Had it repaired and did it again at the end of the season. Had it repaired and did it again the 1st time out this year on the 1st hole. He's the proud new owner of an Eskimo Z51 and loves it!!

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How is the word assess poor word usage? If I was talking about people with big [PoorWordUsage] I can understand, but assess. Is assessment a poor word usage because it has the word assess in it. If I'm doing an assessment of [PoorWordUsage] maybe, but seriously give me a break.

The filter ptobably just picks it up as being the human rear ends. Nothing to get worked up about.

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I had a problem with my recoil as it failed on me twice....I live near strikemaster so I bring it there but after the second time it happened they stated that it would not happen again as they had a new recoil that was better.....well it has been 3 years and I have not had another problem....I would take it to strikemaster if I were you......oh and I didn't spend a dime and it was always repaired within 20 minutes.......

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Thanks to all those that offered ideas and help. I was able to get the thing apart last night and you were all right that the recoil wheel sheared off of the housing. Where some of you weren't as correct is on the strikemaster service. I called told them the problem and they gave me another phone number. I thought to their service department but no it was where I could buy a new one. Called SM back told them the part failed(in my opinion if a piece of metal breaks off that is a failure). I got nothing they aren't going to do anything but sell me a new 50 some dollar part to fix it myself. Like I said in my opinion metal rods should not break off and if they do the part should be replaced. I was told take it up with Tecumsuh. I'm glad others have good experiences, but this customer is far from impressed. Thanks again for all the responses and help, I really appreciate it.

Shady

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I did an emergency repair with a machine screw and a locking nut. Just drill out thru the top if it broke there. I'm not so sure it wouldn't have lasted forever. I thought it was pretty flimsy too but stuff happens. 5-6 years is a while. Be carefull of the spring,but if it is the same problem as mine it was an easy fix. Is that the problem, the recoil let loose on that little pot metal thing that holds it to the top?

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wow sorry to hear that but that I can't vouch for there customer service over the phone but in person they are top notch.....maybe you will have to pay for the part understandable since the auger is probably over a year or two old but they usually will fix it right on the spot for ya.......

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Purchased a Brand new Strikemaster Lazer Pro solo engine through the mail from Cabelas. Received the 2010 strikemaster lazer pro on saturday. Brand new motor but had a terrible time starting. Choke, start, pulled, cleaned spark plug, repeated this process for about 30 minute before she started. Once started, I burned a tank of 40:1 non-oxy gas to break her in. Took it out to white bear lake for testing. First hole, plastic connecting auger to powerhead broke off. 2nd hole seemed like there was no power and blade was dull. (Might have to do with ice freezing blade) 3rd hole, took forever to punch hole and motor sounded funny. 4h hole, half way through, motor seized. Wth? Should've listened to veterans and reviews but got suckered with a $100 savings.

I gave up on this auger, returned it and ordered a Nils w/8" blade. btw, if you guys see cheap ice rod out on east WB Lake, it was mine. I threw it out of frustration.

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Bought a new Lazer Mag 2.5HP this past December. Had it up laker fishing for it's maiden voyage 2 weeks ago. Drilled about 10 holes fine -- second spot motor started, we heard a "ping", it died and engine was seized. Had to make a 15 mile run to get the Nils. A rod snapped causing a piston to fail...it's a 2010 model and SM is replacing it.

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