Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

fish house frames?


Ol' Lund

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

i am looking to build a fish house, and im just starting to make the plans. I am wondering what are some good places here in Minnesota to buy Ice house frames from.

just curious, does a v-nose pull alot better then a square front? And I want a 7x16 V Front for a frame. Does the 16' start at the front of the V, or where the frame starts getting square?

thanks for the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sure there is more drag but have you ever been in a regular 7ft trailer and then gone into a 8.5 trailer? There is a huge difference with the extra 1.5ft I would say go bigger if you have the capabilities of towing it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go 8' wide. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A trailer that has the wheels track your truck! This is huge on the lake when a foot of snow or ice and you go off road. V nose pulls better for sure. The V house is good if you dont need bunks in front and back. If you prefer stove and oven the front V is the place for it. The next house i build will be a V split with a bathroom / storage and kitchen split. Some other advise use SPRAY FOAM insulation. You will not regret it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

is 6.5 as wide as they can go without the inset wheels like the 8' wide ones?

the overall width of the house can only be 8 foot 6 inches weather that is the house or the outside measurements of the wheels.

Typically the house is 6.5 ft wide and the outside mesurements of the wheels are 8ft to 8.6 ft

the 8.6 measurment is as wide as the state will let you pull a trailer down the road without a permit and no one wants to deal with that.

If you plan on pulling the house long distances to each location talk to guys that have each style of house and get the pros and cons for both

I personally like the 6.5 wide house with a V front. The last one we built however was 6.5 wide with a 4 ft V front and then right behind the wheels we made it 8ft wide basically the sleeping area. pulled down the road like a dream. I built the frame myself

heres acouple of pics

s003-1.jpg

s001.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have built 7 houses in the last 2 years and the most popular is a 7x14 rectangle. I pull each of these down the interstate to get spray foamed and they cut right along. Typically you pay for the total length of a frame anyway, whether it is rectangle or v since it takes about the same metal. You gain the square footage with the square front house without much increase in material price and dont have to deal with the pain of the angles during construction.

Either way you go on frame, get it from Don at Miltona. His HSOforum isn't much (because he is busy building frames and not sitting behind a desk) but it has the contact info you need. All my frames come from him and I know people who come from a long distance, multiple times to buy from him. He now has a guy who will paint the frames as well if you want that done. If you go flat front, have him put expanded metal on the the hitch brace, he will know what you mean and it is a great spot to set you propane tanks. If you go v front, he prefers 3' v but I had him do a 4' for me on one of ours and it turned out well too.

BTW- He has doors, hole covers, bunk cushions, etc that you can't find for a better price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first house that I built was 6.5X14 v nose. With my F150, I got around 9 mph pulling at highway speeds. Now I have an 8X16 and getting about 8.7 mph at highway speeds. Not that great of a drop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first house that I built was 6.5X14 v nose. With my F150, I got around 9 mph pulling at highway speeds. Now I have an 8X16 and getting about 8.7 mph at highway speeds. Not that great of a drop.

I'm pretty sure everyone knows I mean MPG. But just incase... haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MAKE SURE YOU BUY A trailer that has the wheels track your truck!

4' wide house? That sounds comfy. Boxing in recessed wheels yields even less than 4'. Square front pulls same as v front. Drag based on surface area. Could say v pulls harder due to increased surface area.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which part of huh? do I need to explain?

4' sheet of material fits between the wheelwells of my p/u.

Unpowered v front trailer does not "cut" through the wind providing magical gas mileage. By all means, if a v front layout fits you, buy it. Leaning towards it because of fuel "savings" is laughable. Referrance the much larger RV market. Some of the high profile 5th wheels sport a rounded front but v fronts appear to be missing. Huh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.