Deep Jigs - Line Choices

[74mph]

That's kind of what I figured you would say. I wonder if those guys have tried braid much or just stay with what they started with because it works really well. I think eventually I will try both options. Just out of curiosity I might start with fluoro just to see if there is a difference.

So 15lb fluoro? When would you go with 12 or 20?

[Larson15]

15-20 should serve the purpose. Here is a good article written by Marty Stone on this topic.

Quote:

Mono, Fluoro or Braid?

January 18, 2010 at 12:12 pm

Back in bass fishing’s good old days there was just one type of fishing line: monofilament. You either fished with thick, stretchy, buoyant monofilament – which had the sensitivity of anchor rope – or you didn’t fish.

Then in 1993 pro angler Randy Dearman introduced the bass fishing world to braided line by winning a BASS event in Texas. In that groundbreaking event, Dearman wrangled bass after bass out of flooded bushes with “braid.” He pitched jigs into the thickest bushes without the slightest fear of breaking off, thanks to the new line.

Shortly after braid made its entrance to the marketplace, the drop-shot gurus from the West Coast brought us something called fluorocarbon, a completely different type of fishing line than either mono or braid.

Since then the fishing line aisle at the sporting good store has become inundated with dozens upon dozens of different braids, fluorocarbons and monofilaments. You just about need a degree in “Fibers and Filaments” (if there is such a thing) just to make sense of it all.

Over the last decade traditional monofilament has sort of taken a back seat to braided line and fluorocarbon, and for good reason. Compared to classic mono, both fluorocarbon and braid provided tremendous advantages in the sensitivity, low-stretch and abrasion resistance departments.

But over the last couple of years, vast improvements in monofilaments have been quietly closing the gap on those advantages found in braid and fluoro, which is the primary reason I’m resorting back to monofilament this season.

Thanks to Vicious Ultimate Fishing Line, which is actually a copolymer monofilament, I’ll be spooling up with mono a lot more in 2010 and here’s why:

For starters, the sensitivity, low-stretch properties and abrasion resistance of this new super monofilament from Vicious is now up to par with most fluorocarbons on the market. But the primary reason for going back to mono is superior cast control. Since mono has so much less line memory than fluorocarbon, it flows off the spool effortlessly with far fewer backlashes.

So anytime casting accuracy is critical, I’ll be using mono. Things like flipping and pitching, especially light-line flipping in the 12- to 17-pound test class, will be all mono for me.

Also, when skipping docks, there is nothing better than mono. Trying to skip a baitcaster with coily fluoro is a non-stop exercise in picking out backlashes.

In addition, mono still has a bit of stretch to help absorb the shock of hooksets, which is a huge bonus when setting the hook in short-line situations.

I’m also going to mono for all spinnerbaits, crankbaits and topwater walkers and poppers.

Again, the supreme castability improves accuracy to specific targets and the stretch allows for better shock absorption between the bite and hookset. As for the topwaters, the buoyancy of mono is a must to make poppers and walkers work properly.

While I’d like to move totally back to mono for all my fishing, I can’t because there are still some applications where fluorocarbon and braid outshine mono.

When casting Texas rigs and Carolina rigs in deeper, open water – like ledge fishing on Kentucky Lake or casting a worm at Okeechobee – Vicious Fluorocarbon will get the honors. The faster sink of fluorocarbon is a big plus in these situations.

Also, I’ll spool fluoro when jerkbaiting for smallmouth or ripping a lipless rattling crankbait over grass – a non-buoyant line is a key with these lures as well.

And finally, fluorocarbon is still the best when fishing deep with a spinning rod.

As for braided line, I’ll spool Vicious Braid when I’m swimming a jig, punching vegetation mats with a big weight, fishing a topwater frog or reeling buzzbaits over heavy vegetation.

So there you have it, that’s my basic break down on when to use monofilament, fluorocarbon or braid.

I’m guessing that in 2010, monofilament will be used for about 70 percent of my fishing while the other 30 percent will be split between fluorocarbon and braid.

And one last thing: no matter which type of line you use, a good line conditioner like Real Magic will work wonders in keeping line slick and limp, especially between fishing trips. But we’ll explore the importance of line conditioners in another tips column soon.

Dream Big,

Marty

[Deitz Dittrich]

74MPH, Not even I wasnt to be like Deitz.. but I am doomed to be he.. LOL Congrats on the new P.B. sounds like a thick fish.. Did you get a pict. I know I would love to see it.

I think its great that people come on here and ask advice.. However, its just that.. Advice.. My only advice is find what works for you. What works great for me, may or may not work great for you or anybody else. One of the anglers I have a ton of respect for is Ray Esboldt on the boards here. Yet we fish very differently when it comes to line choice and rod length and action. But it seems to work well for both of us... Well at least for him as he is constantly kicking my butt in tournaments.. LOL

[74mph]

Thanks Deitz! Ive only got cell phone pics and I cant figure out how to get them on the computer yet. Ill work on it. It was a toad! They must be putting on the feedbags because the bigger fish ive been catch are fat! It did have quite a bit thicker tail too. I noticed that since reading the post of your nearly 7 pounder.

DK

[oleballcoach]

If you are new to fishing, or want to take it more seriously I feel that playing around with different line types for presentations is a good idea. I would have had no idea what a bite on braid or braid with a floro leader felt like unless I tried them. For me learning new ways to fish, and modifying the ways I fish, is fun and makes me a better fisherman. With that being said if something works there is no reason to change unless you are forced to by the conditions.

[Fever]

Figured I'd chime in here.... Personally braid works for me. ON a typical trip out I'll have 12 or so rods in the boat. 10 bait casters and 2 spinning. I have Braid on 9 of them ranging from 20 lb up to 65lb - all Power Pro. On a few I'll tie a back to back uni knot to 14 or 20 lb vanish Flouro, on one other I'll have a blood knot tied to 17lb mono. I personally love the no stretch / extreme sensitivity of the Braid and feel it provides much more benifits than not. I don't like the line memory of the Flouro so I don't spool my whole reel with it. The line diameter is another drawback for me. That 3-4 foot snell (when needed) is much more affordable as well. I love when people bring up sink rate... That is funny. think about it. If you are fishing in 15ft of water and one guy flips a 3/8 oz jig to the weed edge using 30 lb power pro and another guy flips a 3/8oz jig out at the exact same time using 20lb flouro..... HOW much faster is that flouro going to be in 15 feet of water.... a second or two. I mean seriously. thats is the definition of Ticky Tac. Only way I could understand a statement like that is if your fishing virtically in 40 plus feet. Which here in Mn is basically NEVER. Or if your using a 1/16 oz jig.... which is also pretty much never.

[RK]

Hiya -

At least for me personally, it's not the sink rate, but that it sinks...if that makes any sense.

What I mean by that is a sinking line like fluoro is off the surface and not getting blown around by the wind. That makes it easier to fish a lighter jig in windier conditions, fish more easily in a crosswind, and be better able to line watch without a big wind bow while a light jigworm is sinking. Plus I think I can feel better with fluoro - it's a more dense material.

Fishing where I do most often in Western MN, it's almost always windy, and a little performance improvement like being easier to manage in wind is a big enough improvement to outweigh fluoro being a little harder to handle on the spool (with spinning gear at least). I'll gladly trade a little stiffer line for being able to fish a lighter jig effectively in a post cold-front crosswind. I'll get more bites.

But actual sink rate probably isn't affected much by fluoro sinking. Actually, in the scenario you described, the jig on power pro might sink faster due to less resistance on braid's thinner diameter. I know for sure a crankbait will run deeper on 20# braid than 12# fluoro for that reason...

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

[Cecil]

The other big thing about the sinking of the line is that it creates a more straight line between your rod and the lure. Making for more sensitivity and a better hook set.

[st.crioxfishin]

I agree with Cecil's statement. With a braid or monofilament, you have an upward bow in your line while fishing a drop bait (jig, t-rigs, etc) in deeper water. With flouro, you will have a straight line to your bait and possibly a downward bow in your line, makes things much more sensitive and is one of the reasons I like flouro over mono or braid in deeper water.

[slipperybob]

If you're moving a lure or water current is moving...all lines will bow. To reduce it, smaller diameter and heavier mass weight. For the purpose of fishing deep and not casting far, the differences becomes rather small. The rest is individual equipment and individual ability to detect and determine sensitivity.

[slipperybob]

The other thing that may play into effect of not only just the sink rate, but how it really affects the profile of your jig on the sink. A flourocarbon line may allow it to look more level or nose dive. A mono may make the jig sink with a nose up position. By adding trailering plastics to slow jig sink rate, it will more that likely look pretty much the same with the added rear drag. There are times when a slower sink rate is preferrential. Then there are times when you will want a better lift out of your jig.

[74mph]

Hey All - This is a great post. Thanks for all of the responses. So far I have changed from a 6.2 to a 5.0 reel and I am switching to 15lb fluoro based on all of the feedback here. I am going to try it out at least and see if I like it.

The reel is on the way - cant wait to get out on the water and try out the new setup!

On a related note - how late in the season should I expect to keep catching the deep fish around the metro? Are they there pretty much until ice up or do they move shallow and become harder to find out deep from now until ice?

[slipperybob]

If you haven't decided on which brand of flourocarbon, then just check the line diameter. For example 15# Triline 100% is much thicker than 15# Seagaur Invisx.

[74mph]

Yeah Good Question for Me! I have used P-Line and Segaur. I had good luck with both so far.

What should I buy?

[RickyBobby]

Just saw a news clip on bassfan that talks about spiderwire flouro-braid. Evidently its just hitting the market and has all the characteristics of braid but it sinks like flourocarbon.