Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Looking for opinions on how many miles between oil changes.


Recommended Posts

I'm throwing the Bee S flag, there's no way those Chevy's go 200k with NO issues! shockedlaugh

When even you say something like their, it always seems there are 20 Chevy guys who will come out of the woodwork to refute those charges. laugh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Call it [PoorWordUsage] all you want but the truth is the truth. Can't a chevy engine go that long with no issues?

My current 2006Chev PU has 148,000 miles with the engine never having any issues to date. Well, a 4x4 issues with the elec shift control. Other than that, the valve covers were never of the motor. No starters or anything else.

Yes, oil changes. plugs and general maintenance and that's it.

I cannot understand why its not believable unless you drive a Toyota Jer. wink

My last truck, a 2002 GMG with a 6 cyl went 258,000 and never an internal issue with the motor when I sold it to the junk yard. A year ago the guy was still driving it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I guess if we are gonna be technical the thread was about oil change intervals.

I cant think of many other components that would be affected by oil other than the engine it lubricates! wink Dont let em mess with you Harvey. smile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think all manufactures in the last 10 years, you really shouldnt have much issues with getting 200,000 miles on the engines. Sure there are a few here and there, but I think on average the majority will last a lot longer then 200k as long as they are maintained properly, which brings us back to oil changes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With todays oils, sludge is the result of an engine problem (PCV, etc) or neglect not the oil. Amsoil is a great oil, but it didn't solve yor sludge problem.

Well its gone now??? Explain that. Didnt do any work to the motor. Changed oil type and it disappeared. Maybe the oil helped its performance which fixed the problem??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had sludge in my car until i switched to amsoil. Now I change it whenever I think about it. I dont even keep track. I do not put that many miles on. Id say I change it 2-3 times a year. maybe every 8000k or so

You didn't tell us how often you changed you oil before you switched? how much drained out when you did change it? What kind of oil you where using? How long it took for the Amsoil to clean out the "sludge"? What your definition of sludge is?

You also put on more miles than the national average by almost double. It take me a year to put on 10k miles. I don't put on very many miles!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have fully jumped on the synthetic bandwagon. It was like pouring in horsepower on my snowmobile when I switched. Much less smoke too. Now for cars, I have seen it "clean up" an old engine too. The engine in my 25 year old Toyota with 265k is so clean inside it looks like it could still be under warranty. It wasn't that clean when I got it. I've had engines just out of warranty taken apart and almost none of them look as good as the one in my old turd.

Yes, oils have improved dramatically. So have demands on the oil. Must not be many Euro car owners here. Some of the intervals given here would be suicidal on many Euro's. Now we have variable cam timing systems on most vehicles that are VERY sensitive to oil quality and sludge buildup. Turbo's have been becoming more popular, further increasing heat put into the oil. I don't trust oil life monitors much either. Too many have had oil come out that will tatoo you for the day if it gets on your skin. Those also have a distinct smell. Like when you crack open a poorly maintained engine that broke too soon.

Probably the biggest argument for synthetic is that most people go way over any reasonable amount of miles between changes. Most "virgin" oil changes I've done have been about 8k. What a break in. The worst I've seen was 17k on conventional oil! I would think a duramax deserves better. Just driving in MN. puts you in severe duty conditions.

Since this is a fishing forum, how about when you're miles from shore away from the crowds on LOW and the temp is -35 and you want your car/truck to crank over next morning.I would think pour point alone would convince a winter sportsman.

I don't/won't say shame on you to anyone that goes a long way on their oil. I fix/replace engines,tranny's,and axles too.

Finally, does anybody agree with the "lubed for life" position many manufacturers have on everything but the engine nowadays?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It was under the oil cap, stick bubbly light brown, When you switch to a full synthetic you require an engine flush. I didnt think of that. Maybe thats what took care of the problem.

That is not sludge. That is just moisture buildup, it looks like chocolate milk. Probably cooler weather and short trips caused this. No big deal and this is common in MN. Make sure that your PCV valve is good and make sure you get the oil good and hot (long drive) once a week or so and you will be fine.

Also there is no need for an engine flush when going to synthetic. That is an old wives tail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is not sludge. That is just moisture buildup, it looks like chocolate milk. Probably cooler weather and short trips caused this. No big deal and this is common in MN. Make sure that your PCV valve is good and make sure you get the oil good and hot (long drive) once a week or so and you will be fine.

Also there is no need for an engine flush when going to synthetic. That is an old wives tail.

Agreed! Probably a Chrysler product which are well known for this to happen. Especially since the PCV valve is in the top of the oil fill tube.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.