Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

What Would You Do? (Riding lawn mower advice)


jjohnson5150

Recommended Posts

I have a John Deere 111 riding lawn mower that is about 30 years old. It's been a great tractor for the cabin. Something blew on the engine last summer. It started knocking really loud, oil starting spilling out and smoke followed. I've called the Elbow Lake JD dealer & another shop nearby that works on JD's. They quoted $500-$600 for a new engine to be put in. I could get a brand new one with hydro drive for $1699 right now & actually have the money set aside to pay for it.

Here's the question - would you repair the classic tractor knowing all the other parts are 30 years old or just spring for a new one?

If I was to go with a new one, what would the market be for a 30 year old JD with a broken engine?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I would say you got your moneys worth with it.

I think I would opt for a new one if you are able...Everything else on that mower is old and eventually going to need some kind of repair.

30 years huh? They sure dont make them like that anymore

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Dad gave it to me when they moved out of their house. I'm kind of attached to it, which is the only reason I'm struggling with getting rid of it. I wish I had the space & time to work on it myself to get it going again. Everything on the tractor is in great shape too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot depends on what shape the rest of it is in. How are the axels/spindles/ Transmission? Mower deck? How well did you maintain it by cleaning it up, greasing where needed etc. Rusted out in critical places?

You may find out that the new unit is not built all that well - that price seems low to me for a Deere rider. I don't know about Deere at all but I do know that a lot of the lower end stuff is really built on the cheap and doesn't hold up well. Then about 5 years down the line some $4 jobberdo breaks, you can't find it and you end up with a lawn ornament.

I'd bet there's a back yard mechanic somewhere near Ashby that would do this for a lot less than the dealer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Tom7227 - if the rest of the mower is in decent shape the $5-600 price is good for a new installed motor. About 12 years ago I replaced the motor on my JD 111 with a 12.5HP Brigg IC motor from Nor-Hydralics and I also opted for the the recoil option as well -although I never had to use it. I think that motor then cost me like $500 and I installed it myself. Only had one small issue with the oil drain not fitting through the frame. Just cut the hole opening with a hack saw and it dropped right in. You just have to make sure that the motor shaft is the same length and diameter as your old one. You can bet that new one for $1600 won't be around in 30 years.... You can't get a decent used rider for the money it will cost to get this one running again - IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm giving some serious thought to replacing the motor. It's true, they don't make them like they used to. I'm not really much of a mechanic, but am somewhat handy. Is motor replacement someone with mid range fix it skill can handle? The tractor has been well taken care of. No rust to speak of. No cracks on the seat. Minimal scratches. Etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JJ,, I guess I would grade myself in your same category for fixing. If you question it just take the old motor out yourself being it don't work anyways. Then you can tell what your up against. Just remove mower deck and hood to get at everything. I'm assuming there is an electric clutch on the bottom of the motor shaft. You may need an impact wrench to loosen the nut on the pulley assembly because it will turn the shaft when you try to loosen it. If I remember right there is like 4-5 bolts holding the motor to the frame and few wires to the starter. Heck you got nothing to loose and if you take it to the shop you already have the motor out if you go that route. Remember to verify the mounting hole pattern and shaft size to a new one. Again I did have a slight issue with the oil drain plug not fitting correctly as I mentioned earlier but I upgraded from a 11HP to a 12.5HP so that may have been the reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well right now you are assuming that the motor is toast. Probably a good assumption but if you don't really know then maybe having someone check it out makes sense. It may be worth fixing the motor you have.

A cracked seat isn't the big issue. Check the front end pieces and see if there is wear around the spindles, places where the axels mount, stuff like that were there's a lot of stress. That's how you're going to determine if it's worth replacing the motor or not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A $1699 John Deere has to be one from Home Depot or something. These newer consumer grade mowers are no better than any of the other cheap ones out there. The newer cheaper mower will not be built anywhere near as good as your old JD unless you buy one from a John Deere dealer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.