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best shooting fixed blade at 300+ fps??


boatfull

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I have been shooting shuttle T-locks for the past few years on my PSE Typhoon. I have been very happy with them, but I get about 4 inches of plane. So I need to reset my pins each fall when I put the broadheads on. I am considering upgrading my bow to something shooting over 300 fps. What is my best bet for a fixed blade when shooting 300+ fps?? I am not too excited about mechanicals.

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Assuming your arrow spine is correct you should be able to get your broadheads to hit with field points but it takes some time amd you may need to adjust the rest. Do a search for the easton broadhead tuning guide for the steps to get your bow, rest, arrows and heads all set up for broadheads.

The best shooting fixed blade I have found out of a bow that wasn't totally tuned is a sonic. It is also the smallest fixed blade head I have seen and that is no coincidence.

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Your Shuttle T's will be just fine, just as any sharp fixed blade would be. The bigger issue is having a bow that is properly tuned. If you are consistently getting 4" of plane on your arrows with broadheads, I would guess you are either facing an arrow spine issue or a rest position or fletching contact issue.

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Yep, it's a tuning issue, not a broadhead issue (despite what many will tell you- even guys in some proshops say this). Here are the fist few things I'd do: check the timing of your cams, if you can get an arrow with a stiffer spine (not stiff enough is more common than too stiff), do a search on walk back tuning (some call it step back tuning)- then do it.

Good luck! This can be a big pain in the buns and is frustrating!

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I shoot a mission bow that rates around 300+ fps. I shoot G5 Montec broadheads. I can't say enough about them. I shot a ton with a group of guys who were shooting alot of different stuff. My broadheads were in way tighter groups then the rest of them. They all shoot montecs now.

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Thanks for the input! I will definitely check the tuning aspects of my bow as you have suggested. Last thing, I shoot 2 inch blazers on beman 400 arrows at about 62 lbs. Could the blazers be a problem??

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Thanks for the input! I will definitely check the tuning aspects of my bow as you have suggested. Last thing, I shoot 2 inch blazers on beman 400 arrows at about 62 lbs. Could the blazers be a problem??

Nope- your bow is not tuned properly. The blazers are not the problem. Any of the broadheads mentioned should shoot right with your field points if you get your tuning concerns figured out. Good luck.

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Originally Posted By: boatfull
Thanks for the input! I will definitely check the tuning aspects of my bow as you have suggested. Last thing, I shoot 2 inch blazers on beman 400 arrows at about 62 lbs. Could the blazers be a problem??

Nope- your bow is not tuned properly. The blazers are not the problem. Any of the broadheads mentioned should shoot right with your field points if you get your tuning concerns figured out. Good luck.

The blazers could be part of a different problem, but they are not the problem. Blazers have a higher profile and are more rigid than feathers and some other vanes. Thus, if your fletch is contacting your rest as it passes through, you could be getting some tuning issues. You can easily check this by placing some lipstick or similar on the vane edges and see if there are lipstick marks on the rest after shooting.

However, I think you might have a different tuning issue that is causing the problem as stated earlier in the thread.

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If blazers were an issue, they'd affect both broadheads and field points. Sounds like an arrow spine issue, or bow just needs some slight tuning. Is it off 4 inches at say 20 yards, then 8 at 40, or a constant 4"?

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I always use a heavy spined arrow, usually 340 or 350. I've never had an issue with POI, point of impact, being different between broadheads or field points. My heads of choice are G5 striker and rage 2-blade

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If blazers were an issue, they'd affect both broadheads and field points.

Zactly! wink

His problem is most likely being underspined or being in need of walk-back tuning. My guess is the latter, but no way to know for sure at this point.

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Originally Posted By: vister
If blazers were an issue, they'd affect both broadheads and field points.

Zactly! wink

His problem is most likely being underspined or being in need of walk-back tuning. My guess is the latter, but no way to know for sure at this point.

Not necessarily. If the fletching was making contact, it would likely be exacerbated by the broadheads, which are aerodynamically different and wouldn't "correct" and stabilize as quickly as field points would. I've had it happen to me personally.

But again, the consistent (if it is consistent at different yardages) 4" difference between broadheads and field points would likely dispell the notion that there is fletch contact. Rather, it would likely indicate that the rest position is slightly off or there is a spine issue, and paper tuning and walk back tuning should get the issue fixed unless its a spine issue.

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Not necessarily. If the fletching was making contact, it would likely be exacerbated by the broadheads, which are aerodynamically different and wouldn't "correct" and stabilize as quickly as field points would. I've had it happen to me personally.

But again, the consistent (if it is consistent at different yardages) 4" difference between broadheads and field points would likely dispell the notion that there is fletch contact. Rather, it would likely indicate that the rest position is slightly off or there is a spine issue, and paper tuning and walk back tuning should get the issue fixed unless its a spine issue.

So... kinda like Vister and I said... smile

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Originally Posted By: InTheNorthwoods
Not necessarily. If the fletching was making contact, it would likely be exacerbated by the broadheads, which are aerodynamically different and wouldn't "correct" and stabilize as quickly as field points would. I've had it happen to me personally.

But again, the consistent (if it is consistent at different yardages) 4" difference between broadheads and field points would likely dispell the notion that there is fletch contact. Rather, it would likely indicate that the rest position is slightly off or there is a spine issue, and paper tuning and walk back tuning should get the issue fixed unless its a spine issue.

So... kinda like Vister and I said... smile

Yep, for the most part. But I think we would be remissed not to indicate that fletch contact could be a problem to consider depending on the facts. As you stated, and I would agree, the issue is likely unrelated to the blazer vanes, but its important not to overlook a simple issue when tuning, and even worse to write it off. Again, personal experience. My advice is not meant to be contrarian to what either of you said, but merely to make sure it is considered in the end, as it is the easiest adjustment to make (realign the fletch positioning).

It is possible to group field points and broadheads in different but consistent locations with fletch contact when shooting at a set distance. The broadheads would likely drift further off path the greater the distance you're shooting at. If he is only shooting at 20 yards, its easily possible to consistently group 4" off between FP's and BH's, and I didn't see him indicate one way or another that the 4" gap is consistent over different yardages (which would be quite uncommon in my experience).

I know that you more than likely understand that I wasn't trying to two dog either of you, but merely to try help solve a problem that I learned the hard way (i.e. trying to paper tune, broadhead/walkback tune, and in the end realize my drop away wasn't getting out of the way fast enough and the minor fletch contact with the wider/more rigid blazer vanes I had switched to was throwing broadheads off line just enough to make me want to pull my hair out!).

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Yep, I hear ya. I know you're right- it could be related to the blazers. But... I think we're in agreement that it likely isn't. No point in splitting hairs here- I think we're generally on the same page.

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I used to have blazer contact issues, but not with the rest. With the cock feather straight up, fletching would nick the cable on the way by. So I would rotate the nocks making the fletching offkilter, but almost contacting the rest. So I installed a higher clearance cable/string guide, which solved my problem

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