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canoe depth finder


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This is my first post on your site and i'm an Ohio fisherman. I found some lakes where the creek bed running through holds the best crappie and am thinking of buying a fish finder to see if I can locate the run along with a topo map. I have some GPS co-ords to get a start and a GPS unit but the depth/fish finder would be nice. I run a 12v battery with my electric motor and would like to stay away from portables that take 6v batteries. I don't want a transducer that attaches to the hull, but was told I can make a removable bracket to mount to. I'd like to stay in the $200 to $250 range and would be happy with a black and white unit. Any recomendations.

Al

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I have an old Eagle cuda portable that runs off 8 AA batteries, I believe there is an external jack for 12Vpower too. the transducer came with a suction cup mount which I have used on the back of several aluminum boats, and once stuck it to the side of an aluminum canoe. My canoe is cedar strip and fibergalss so I made a inverted L shape mount which I attatch to the thwart and have the trancducer on a shaft in the water at the middle of the boat. keeps it out of the way of paddles and such. there are newer portables out there in the $100-$150 range- possibly cheaper that would do a fine job for you. I have had mine for probably 10 years or so and also have riged up a tranducer adapter for the ice. Batteries usually last 3-6 days of fishing. often I just use whats in the unit from the last trip and only occasionally have to replace batteris on 4 or 5 day fishing trips.

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When i'm out with my canoe, i simply toss my transducer from my marcum over the side. Also, you could leave the transducer in the bottom of the canoe if there is water connecting the transducer to the canoe floor. If you glued a cylinder to the floor (maybe 2" in height and 3" diameter), put water in that cylinder, and then the transducer you would be able to see right through the canoe. Or if your canoe leaks...your set! laugh

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When i'm out with my canoe, i simply toss my transducer from my marcum over the side. Also, you could leave the transducer in the bottom of the canoe if there is water connecting the transducer to the canoe floor. If you glued a cylinder to the floor (maybe 2" in height and 3" diameter), put water in that cylinder, and then the transducer you would be able to see right through the canoe. Or if your canoe leaks...your set! laugh

I know of guys just putting a ring of silicone on the floor of the canoe. You don't need much water, that 1/4" that the silicone holds is enough. I just splash a little water on the floor, and let my Marcum read right thru it. Reaply water when needed.

Welcome to HotSpotOutdoors wildcat!!! Others will chime in and help ya out.

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This is a great site with a big variety of interests. Are these marcums the same ones they use for ice fishing? I went to the site and it looks like a camera taking pictures of the underwater action. Heck when the water is cloudy you wouldn't see anything, it would be weird though to see a fish looking at my hook. I was wondering about those ice fishing fish finders where you just toss the transducer into the water. The salesman for a lowrance I was looking at said the transducer had to be solid and secure to the boat as are most all transducers for regular depth finders. As much banging around I do in my canoe a permanently mounted external transducer is pretty much out. Will that Marcum read thru a heavy ga. aluminum canoe too?

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Yes the marcum is a flasher type sonar, and yes it will shoot through the hull, the lcd graphs also will have no trouble going through the hull also. Typically on my canoe trips I have alot of gear and the few times I experimented with a thrugh hull setup I managed to kick or bump ot out its location and decided to get the transducer out of the boat. I may try some of the tricks mentioned on my next trip though.

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When you get the transducer 'out' of the boat what does that mean? Does it have to be mounted at a certain angle? I have an old Grumman that's flat on the bottom, is that how it has to be mounted, underneath? The only reason I don't like that is I get into some shallow bottom rivers and I'm afraid of knocking it off.

My foot space is real limited too and I don't want to glue it inside. I haul my canoe on a trailer and sometimes hit 3 lakes in a day to find where they're hitting and my canoe travels upside down, i'd be worried it would fall off while traveling

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img1836e.jpg

The main reason I use a flasher type of locator is because I already have it for ice fishing.

They make clamps for mounting transducers on the outside of the canoe, the 'ducer doesn't need to be deep in the water, but it needs to be level to get an accurate reading.

I'll do some research and see if I can't find some lcd models that might fit your needs.

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Holy Shiatsu!!!!! I could live in that thing. That is one serious set-up you got. Id that the transducer in that bag, do you just toss it in when you want to use it. I don't ice fish but I like the ice depth finders. Are they more versitile than a regular boat type with a mounted transducer. I'd appreciate any info you can look up on the LCD's since you got a better idea of what I need than me :-)

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duffman - nice set up there, what type of rod holders are those, I may have to find a similar rig.

Wildcat- like Duffman said the transducer needs to be level and be in water. when transporting your boat just take the sonar out and put it in the car, you will find it is not difficultand only takes a couple seconds. It looks like duffman could throw his boat on his shoulder with the marcum attached to carry it across a portage. just secure the transducer cord so it dont hang out in the way. I use velcro wire ties ( designed for electronics cables) to secure small stuff to my canoe on portages and so things dont go overboard in big water.

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Who knows? I might have started with an LCD, if I didn't have the flasher already. I've got hundreds of hours at staring at the dang things, so I'm used to the display. Flashers are real time, but I do like the "history" factor that a LCD has to offer.

The transducer on my setup shoots thru the hull of my kevlar canoe. If I'm jigging, I'll move the transducer forward so I can see the jig on the display. The wire that goes into the thwart bag leads to a battery. I've replaced the regular 5 lb gel cell with a 3 lber, I can get about three days worth of fishing time out of a charge. I'm thinking of adding a 12v solar panel onto the canoe cover.....just thinking. smile

The rod holders are Driftmasters, both BP and the big "C" carry them. BP has better selection of holders and mounts. They're a tad heavy. They are multi-use for me, I've got six mounts on the boat as well.

The "World's Foremost Outfitter" has transducer mounts.

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I've read alot about the smartcast and have enough knowledge to avoid it. Supposedly the floating part of it is senstive and breaks easily. So casting it out alot would potentialy damage it and there is no way to change the battery in the float. You need to replace it when it goes bad (around 25 bucks). Bear in mind these are personal reviews written by owners. It was my first choice but now I omitted it from the running. As for now the LCD models seem to suit my purpose. I have 2 front runners, the Garmin fishfinder 140 & the Humminbird 535.. I guess I can figure out an easily removable arm to put over the side to mount the transducer. The B&W models also, should serve my purpose (& pocketbook). Thanks for all the replies and I guess I got a few months to research it all before I buy one so I'm still openminded.

Al

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wildcat:

I use a little less technology than a flasher, I use a (name upon aproval by the adm) flashlight style depthfinder that we use to shoot through the ice in the winter. has its limitations because its not constantly on, but works great to find holes and depths. also very portable and durable enough to handle the outdoors

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I went to Gthe store just to look at all the models and talk to a knowledgable salesman. They were stripped pretty bare getting ready for the new models. We discussed the canoe drawbacks and what would be the most portable. Then he said if I was interested he would give me a deal. He brought out a 250.00 humminbird and said it was the last one he had to clear off the shelf of that brand and he'd sell it to me for 50 BUCKS! I jumped on it and then told him my concerns about the 30 day return and it being winter I wouldn't use it til early spring, he gave me a written 90 day return policy. It's a lcd model and was 5 star rated on all the store reviews. Now I gotta mount a rig up for the transducer. Thanks for all the tips though, this is a great site. Al

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Most depth finders are made to be out in the elements. That said, I don't know how they would hold up being totally immersed in water? If I dump the canoe, I guess I'll find out. But I've never dumped a canoe, and I don't intend to anytime soon. I keep other small electronics and stuff that I don't want to get wet in a small watertight box.

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I used a 7" tire tube with a plate tied to it. The transducer was mounted to the plate. i just tie it of to the cross arm next to me and let it float along side the canoe. It works perfectly. Having a double ender limited my locations and getting in some 'real' shallow water, the transducer was never in jeopardy because it floats freely. when I come ashore, I just toss it in the boat without worry of damaging it by running a ground. Whatever I'm missing with this setup, I'm not to concerned because it gives me the vital stats of the water i'm in and that is the real info i'm looking for. I've anchored my canoe and let the float unit strecth out to the full cable length and have located shelves just while it floats freely, not often. But I've located more shelves than the fish indicated on the finder. I'm happy with the price and the info I got coming in with my unit, more than I ever had.

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