Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Favorite rods for lake trout


BigFish1

Recommended Posts

I'm going to Canada for the first time for a probable annual lake trout trip. What do you recommend for a rod? I was looking at the Jason M rod that is 38" spinning MH, but it seems a little light. I already have a st. croix 32"H that I was going to use as a back up. I stopped at Thornes but there rods are 42" and are $70 dollars. Any suggestions? I will be using a stradic 2500 shimano reel. Am I wrong to think that Jason Mitchell's rod is too light? Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The St. Croix should be a good trout rod. I almost bought one today as a backup rod. I agree that the Jason M is too light for trout, I don't think it was designed for lakers.

I highly recommend the Mr. Walleye series. There's a 42" and a 45" that both would work great just pick whichever you like the feel of better. I use an old 42" Genz Rod that has been discontinued for a few years but is exactly like the Mr. Walleye Rods.

Call me crazy but I use a Jason Mitchell 30" walleye on lakes where the average laker is 2-5 lbs. It's perfect for smaller baits like jigging shads and handles the smaller fish very well. I've landed fish up to 8 lbs with it and I didn't feel overpowered by the fish at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Thorne Bros. rod that you mentioned and I love it. I'm not sure where you are going, but if the average laker is under 5 or 6 pounds you might find it a bit too heavy for your likeing. If you fish on a lake where the next red mark on your vex could turn into a 20 pounder and 10-12 pounders are very common, you will love it. Its a bit on the spendy side, but I figured it should last me forever being that it's fiberglass. The eyes on it are also nice and big to help ease the problem of icing up. The St. Croix is a good rod, I have a friend that likes his, and as Fred Bear mentioned, the Mr. Walleye series is very nice. I have a friend that lives in Canada that swears by those. A word of warning, if you are going to be fishing outside a lot in extreme cold temperatures I would maybe shy away from some of the HT rods. They have a nice action but I've seen 3 of them blow up on the hookset when the temps were around -25.

One more piece of advise. Throw your Stradic in the freezer for awhile and test it out before you put it on your rod. I have a Shimano Stradic and Symetre that I would like to use, but the anti-reverses quit working in the extreme cold. I can't use them at all. My Diawas seem to work fine no matter what the temp, even though I don't like them quite as much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm going to Canada for the first time for a probable annual lake trout trip. What do you recommend for a rod? I was looking at the Jason M rod that is 38" spinning MH, but it seems a little light. I already have a st. croix 32"H that I was going to use as a back up. I stopped at Thornes but there rods are 42" and are $70 dollars. Any suggestions? I will be using a stradic 2500 shimano reel. Am I wrong to think that Jason Mitchell's rod is too light? Thanks in advance!

I would take a look at the Jason Mitchell Mackinaw and the put a Abu Garcia C-3 5500 on it if I was going to Canada and it was going to be a annual trip. Sooner or later you will get a monster on and it will take lots of line and smoke your drag so you should have a rig that can take the fight.

JMSC36-Mackinaw.jpg

From there HSOforum:

Jason Mitchell Elite Series 36MH Mackinaw special fishing rod for Lake Trout. This bait casting rod was designed xtensively for the sole purpose of taming Lake Trout. This medium heavy action graphite blank features a spiraled guide wrap for better shock absorption and sensitivity. The handle is designed extra long past the reel seat for better balance and leverage to reduce fatigue while "bobbing" all day. This rod is an awesome stick for trophy hunters looking to land large predators like trout, salmon, pike or musky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use walleye gear that is on the heavy side for inland lake trout but it is not idle. However if you are down sizing lures, which I often do, then a rod can be on the lighter side.

What you do not want or at least me and I've been chasing inland lake trout for decades and have my wants dialed in, is a rod that is too light of action for the lure. With heavy lures and on a lift I do not want a rod to bend over. Add the drag of the line in those deeper haunts of the Laker and you create more drag on the rod which = more bend. At rest a hair of deflection on the rod is good. Any more deflection of either and it'll be like an itch I can't reach. I won't spend the day like that.

Jason Mitchell Elite Series 36MH Mackinaw.

Matched on a Abu 5500 with 10 lb Power Pro, my go to Inland Lake Trout Rig. That is my tool to feel the lift and drops of the lure. The PP lb test I can keep in contact with the lure on the drop and detect a hit on the fall. Then there is the subtle nudge of a Laker. Such a light hit for the fury of what is Lake Trout Battle. The Mackinaw does it for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first couple of years I went, I just made my own rods. Cabelas had buckets of broken off rod tips for $2 or $3. I grabbed a couple with the action I wanted and mated them with some old handles I had laying around and they worked great. I think my total investment those first years was about $10.00 and a tube of epoxy. When I realized that I was going to be going up there multiple times each year I finally bit the bullet and got a nicer rod. Still use my homemade ones as backups, though, and I caught a ton of fish on them! Sensitivity is NOT an issue where I fish in Canada. Having a rod you can hold onto tight is much more important! Have fun and let us know how you do!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.