Semi Auto WD 40 ?

[Cheers]

I have a Browning Gold semi auto that jams when it gets cold out. The gun is clean and oil free. I always thought you should not lube a semi auto but it seems that the only way it will work is with wd 40. Is this normal ? Do all semi auto need lubrication ?

[BrdHunter01]

My brother has the same problem with his Beretta Pintail. Those semi-autos seem a bit expensive to be jamming all the time. I'll stick with my 870 (the ol reliable). His problem is, for some reason it will push the new shell into the chamber but won't slam the chamber closed hard enough. This also happens mostly in the cold or wet weather. It pretty much has turned into a bolt action (he has to help it slam shut w his hand).

[ac777]

Get a benelli, Rarely ever have a problem with mine, and if I do, it's because it was very dirty.

[CJH]

I have a Franchi and haven't had any problems with jamming. I use a light sythetic oil on everything and that has seemed to work fine.

[Cheers]

Do semi autos need lubrication ?

[SmilinBob]

Semi autos do need lubrication, but not very much. I am a gunsmith and have used about half a 4oz bottle of CLP Break free in a year for lubing guns. DO NOT use WD-40, it will gum up in firearms. If you are leaving a fingerprint it is too much oil. In the browning the mainspring in the stock probably needs cleaning and degreasing, when you spray in oil it all runs back there when the gun sits on the buttstock and then gums and fowls the action tube,spring, and plunger, that is also the case with Benelli's not cycling when it is cold. Use a light synthetic and not much, now I'm cutting into my own business.(PS rem-oil is not a synthetic)

[carpshooterdeluxe]

clp all the way. works great.

[Gordie]

smilinBob have you or would you use graphite on that spring instead of oil? Just wondering?

I have a browning gold and not had any problems jamming of fowling at all and I use rustyduck spray.

[SmilinBob]

I would see no problem with graphite, the biggest thing is to not over oil and let the gun sit upright so it all runs into the spring, you would be suprised how much gunk gets in there. I shoot a SX2 (same as the browning) and like I said, just a few drops of oil on the wear spots and its good to go. Oil does not make a gun function, it just lubes up the metal on metal friction spots and helps protect the steel from the elements. If you actually tear a gun down to its last pins you can easily tell where the parts meet, the rest doesn't need lubrication. Too much oil just attracts dirt, its a little known fact that Remington does not advise using any oil in their trigger groups for just that fact.

[Will]

Your brother must be using oil ( or too much ). I have owned my beretta pintail for about 15 years and have never had that happen. I don't oil it at all, i use a moisture displacing lubricant and that's it.

[goblueM]

try out One Shot. its a clean and a dry lube all in one. i've never had a problem with my gun, ever. even hunting in zero degree weather in ND late season pheasants

[Heartman]

CLP for me - I've Rem 1100's, Winchester Super X Model 1, Beretta 390 & 391, Benelli's, Stoeger 200's, and have used it on each and every one. I shoot my semi-autos wet - which means I use the Break Free CLP as an action lubricant. Works particularly well on the gas guns - wouldn't shoot with out it on clays, skeet, trap course, or marsh and lake.

[broken_line]

i would say stay away from rem oil.. it has no lubricating properties what so ever..

[BoxMN]

THere are other threads on this subject, do a search and you will find good info.

I agree with the Break Free 100% !!!! It is grerat stuff, and you don't need much.

Also, look at the posts that tell about the Gold's spring in the stock. Clean that out, and use Break Free and your Gold will never be faster and never slow down in the cold.

Good luck.