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Another post about another wheelhouse!!

Crappie Kutch

By Crappie Kutch
in Ice Fishing

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Crappie Kutch Apprentice

Crappie Kutch

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Just about to open the wallet and start on my first wheelhouse. I have read and learned from all the helpful posts on this HSOforum! I have decided to start with a 8'x 16' square frame and there will be a 2' bay over the tounge. I am planning to use tandem torsion axles and hydraulic lift. Walls will be 2-5/8" steel studs w/2" foam, plywood on the inside, and smooth alum siding on the out. I will use black EPDM membrane roofing. Camper style door, and three "box store" vinyl windows. Maple cabinets will be nestled in the bay area over the tounge, and a booth in the back. That is a sumary of my design, and I would realy enjoy all of your input on all of the details. I think I will start this weekend shopping for axles, and hydraulics!

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Crappie Kutch Apprentice

Crappie Kutch

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Duke you have had frost carry through steel studs even with foam insulation? I would also plan on using sealant between plywood, and studs like a small thermal break. I guess that is something to consider, it could be quite cold if I get it up to L.O.W. Thanks!!!! smirk

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justinman Apprentice

justinman

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Stay away from steel studs they will cause your plywood to sweat and rot out. Go with wood 2x2.

agreed. I helped my buddy build one similar to what you are describing and we used 2x2 wood studs. He spray foamed between the studs after applying the exterior metal skin. He used a 1/4" toung and groove for the interior skin. I don't think you gain anything structurally by using metal studs. The spray foam may temper the steel but i still think you will get condensation. Wood is a natural thermal break. If you stick with Steel I would consider at least a 6 mil poly vapor barrier between the studs and your interior skin. This will push you condensation (dew) point outside your wall.

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Big Buck Buster Mentor

Big Buck Buster

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Well I am ordering my steel for my frame

1. 2x4-1/8"wall around the perimeter

2. 2x3-1/8"wall for joists

3. 3x4-1/4"for H shape at wheel area

4. 3x3-3/16" for tounge

Really suprised I am getting all of this for well under a thousand dollars! grin

It is amazing how much you can save when you do it yourself. I think the higher price tag for parts will come with the suspension system. Even with that, you will save a whole lot of cash by doing it yourself, and can take pride in saying you made it.. grin

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Big Buck Buster Mentor

Big Buck Buster

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went to northern looking for axels and hydraulics this weekend.Came home empty handed!! Does anyone have a recomendation on the size of RAM to use for the hydraulics? Guy at the store knew nothing.

I noticed an ad on C-List that sells the wheel assemblies that are hydraulic. He is from Forest Lake.

You might want to check into the price that he has on them. It could save you some time. Just a thought.

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JSK76 Mentor

JSK76

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By the way I was wondering what is the best paint for the frame? I really want to use good stuff! THANKS

If you want the best that will not chip, peel or rust use POR15

http://www.por15.com/

Prep your frame with their product called Metal-Ready

Next, brush on 2 coats of the POR-15 per directions.

You could stop there but the POR15 has no UV protection and it will fade in direct sunlight to a grayish black, but it will still protect the steel very well. If you want it to look really nice, They have a top coat that will go over the POR15, CHASSISCOAT is a semi gloss and Blackcote is a gloss black. I would just do the area you see in one of the top coats because the protection come from the POR15. The top coat just makes it pretty.

I wish I new about POR15 when I built my frame. The rock chips and rust is getting bad up front. It would have been easier to do it the first time, Now I have to work around the house being on the frame to redo it.

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JSK76 Mentor

JSK76

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The top coat just makes it pretty.

I need to correct myself, if the POR15 is exposed to sunlight, over time it will brake down, so it the sun exposed areas need to be top coated with a POR15 top coat or another paint.

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Crappie Kutch Apprentice

Crappie Kutch

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My DAD rode with me to shop for axles this weekend, and he was talking about a roofing that he put on a camper. He said you put a black substrate down and then painted on a white coating. Has any body used this? Would this be better than black EPDM membrane?

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Crappie Kutch Apprentice

Crappie Kutch

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Hey just got back from Bachelor party on The chippewa flowage. OOf! Hoping to go up to midway iron in hudson this week! Wondering if any body is familiar with this place? Aparently they have torsion axles with a 12" offset wich is great for my hydraulic system!

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Big Buck Buster Mentor

Big Buck Buster

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Hey just got back from Bachelor party on The chippewa flowage. OOf! Hoping to go up to midway iron in hudson this week! Wondering if any body is familiar with this place? Aparently they have torsion axles with a 12" offset wich is great for my hydraulic system!

They have many of the supplies that you will need to do your fish house. We purchased all the metal,siding,exterior lights from them. I couldn't find any other place that could beat theirs for the LED lights. Very good place to shop.

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Crappie Kutch Apprentice

Crappie Kutch

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Well I got quite a bit of the frame welded up just need to complete finishing touches around the wheels. Went to Thorne Bros. for first time ever! Wow talk about great people. I got catch covers, and two custom rods. I will post frame pics on saturday!

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    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

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    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

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