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Bass in the grass


BassProAddict

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The benefits of a c-rig on a baitcaster is because it is a levelwind. I wouldn't start to think of a c-rig as a live bait rig for walleyes, because they are totally different and you simply wont hook up with as many fish with a spinning outfit. IMHO

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So in cranking, when do I know when to bust out of the weeds? If the trebles are all "consumed" by them weeds, does it mean I'm cranking too deep?

Sometimes I think it does... I know if I get a ball of weeds, it is normally because I lost my train of thought or focus. A crankbait is only as good as the guy thowing it. Pick apalthe right crank for the job (running depth, lip, body shape), and pay attention when you retrive it. I personally think that Rapalas DT series made this pretty easy, but their are better cranks out there than the DT's. (maybe not the DT-16 though wink )

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BassProAddict, not that Im an expert by any stretch of the imagination but without seeing you fish its hard to say if you are doing anything wrong. I mean nothing bad by this but maybe some of those "bites" you're missing really arnt bites at all or atleast not by the right species. The only thing I can say is dont make those super long casts past your target because you're worried about a splash. I doubt the splash is going to have too much effect on the fish especially in deep water Id worry more about getting your rig to the structure or cover and having it be in the strike zone the majority of the retrieve.

As for cranking, Thats what I normaly do, pause when I hit the weeds, you will get slack but not much watch the line for a twitch indicating a strike, after the pause begin cranking if the crank is not running correct (this is where it pays to be intune with your baits) rip the bait to free the weeds. Even after the pause if the bait does feel like its running correctly Ill give a jerk to make my lure appear to be fleeing any bass Ive hopefully caught the antention of...

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So for cranking, as soon as I feel the weeds, is it best to pause (to float)? Don't I get slack line coz of that? That's not good is it?

Most of the time it seems best to "tickle" the weeds if that makes sense. The stop-aend-go technique, kind of like what you are talking about, is also money when cranking!

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Hey Tonka, is there a set way to tap or tickle the weeds? I mean is it pretty much a let-go-when -you-feel-grass deal? Or is it a periodic lure-lifting regradless of if you're still feeling grass?

Pardon the incessance of the questions. I really wanna get good at this.

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If you are fishing a crank in the weeds and don't ever hook weeds you probably aren't fishing weeds! lol.. I will "walk" the lure through the weeds instead of "crank" it though, almosts like fishing a jig. Just remember that every time you pull the rod or turn the crank you will make the crankbait dig more. Some weedbeds are just too thick for fishing a crank through them, I ussually prefer something else for these spots. But when you want to cover a lot of water and find some fish, a crankbait is golden! Hopefully you wont have to worry about digging too thick into the weeds because the fish will eat it before it gets to that point! smile

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My "bassmates" use shallow cranks so they stay on top of the weed bed.

As I've said, I used to dig into the weeds and stay there. I think I have to try doing deep cranks but yank 'em out when I feel the weeds.

I'm beginning to think shallow cranks are just plain lazy. Or is it?

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I would not call shallow cranks lazy.. you may be in an area where weeds are only a few feet below the surface and the fish are in the weeds. Or maybe weeds are all the way to the surface.. you can crawl a shallow crankright along the surface.. or maybe your fishing rocks that are only 2 feet deep?

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The main thing is you need to feel your way through the weeds. You need to know excatly what your crankbait is doing at all times and you will eventually be able to tell even before your crank is about to hit a weed.

On shallow cranks if you are using a crank that only goes down 3' and the weed tops are 6' down, then yeah it might be the lazy way. Unless you know for certain that the fish are hanging out there, then yes it would be the easy lazy way to do it.

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I enjoy this technique for early season bass fishing. I think burning shallow cranks over skinny water is a great way to find active fish and cover lot's of water. Many of the local lakes I fish get choked by milfoil fast so the early season always seems to be the best time for those shallow cranks.

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On your c-rigs I woudl agree with some of the other posts on what you are feeling may not be bass biting your bait (worm) but other species, the way a weight is "ticking" something (especially if the people you are fishing with are not getting bit).

My personal opinion is get rid of the 6'6" mod-fast action (good rod for trout fishing spinners - not a good c-rig rod at all (I like the rod but definitely NOT for this application).

If you wanna stay spinning and you fish weeds a lot go to a MH fast action rod - like a 7'2" cumara or similar rod - or go to baitcaster if you would like...moreso about changing rod and action than changing spin vs bc.

Also a vertical hookset will help you - believe me...I learned this the hard way as thankfully my 2nd day of bass fishing I had over 200 bites but the first half of the day I oly landed about 20% and the 2nd half I was probably near 80% - with a total of 87 fish in 6hrs. The only real difference was vertical set of hook and a delay before setting the hook (if you mainly fished trout before or pike...it is a DIFFERENT hookset for sure!

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Nice post biggguyone!

BPA

Quote:
On hopping t-rigs, do you guys go light worm or big worm when hopping 'em above them weeds?

Chose the plastic to meet the conditions. I know this is hard to understand, but I think there is a lot more to picking a plastic than meets the eye.. yet I dont want to over complicate it either.. That bass down there will hit probably a thousand different lures, its up to you to find the most efficient way to catch them.. or find the way you enjoy the most.

Here is a very readers digest condenced version of how I pick plastics.. '

Weather= Good weather pattern to fish, larger lure, tough conditions smaller.

Water clarity= Darker water darker color, clear water natural colors.

Cover fishing=fishing in and around heavy weeds, larger lure, more vibration lure(IE more legs, more ridges in the lure), open water, more natural.

Hope this helps.

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On your c-rigs I woudl agree with some of the other posts on what you are feeling may not be bass biting your bait (worm) but other species, the way a weight is "ticking" something (especially if the people you are fishing with are not getting bit).

My personal opinion is get rid of the 6'6" mod-fast action (good rod for trout fishing spinners - not a good c-rig rod at all (I like the rod but definitely NOT for this application).

If you wanna stay spinning and you fish weeds a lot go to a MH fast action rod - like a 7'2" cumara or similar rod - or go to baitcaster if you would like...moreso about changing rod and action than changing spin vs bc.

Also a vertical hookset will help you - believe me...I learned this the hard way as thankfully my 2nd day of bass fishing I had over 200 bites but the first half of the day I oly landed about 20% and the 2nd half I was probably near 80% - with a total of 87 fish in 6hrs. The only real difference was vertical set of hook and a delay before setting the hook (if you mainly fished trout before or pike...it is a DIFFERENT hookset for sure!

A vertical hookset with a c-rig????? I've always used a sweeping hookset.
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