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USPENAMC

10 yard pin blocked by bow?

29 posts in this topic

Good Morning to all!

I use a Darton Vapor bow 60# 26 lenght if that helps any

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the 4 lines on top represent my 10,20,30,40 as you can tell I put the 1st line shorter with a ( representing where my bow impedes my sight.

when I aim through my peep sight i can still get the correct sight alignment but on a downward angle it seems as if the PIN almost gets blocked by the bow? i have a few suggestions but dont know what way to go. I would have to go and re sight in the bow and move the sights once more.

CHANGE THE SIGHTS?

CHANGE lenght of arrows hopefully be able to drop down the pins a bit to get clearance

shoot heavier broadheads to drop down the pins a bit just enough to get clearance

move my peep sight down?

lower my pull weight for the same concept of lowering my sights to get clearance?

what would you suggest it doesnt impede my shooting unless im shooting at like 10 yards from a tree stand....but barely but it is annoyins specially with adrenalin already running hard through your body.

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Or you could just get rid of your 10 yard pin and aim a bit low with your 20. I don't think I've used a 10 yard pin for about 10 years.

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I agree with archerystud. Get rid of the 10 yard pin. I shoot a 60lb bow and my 20 yard pin serves as my 10 yard pin also. very little difference in point of impact when aiming dead on at both ranges.

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I shoot the same bow ! Love it, but it does have a couple of design flaws in the riser.I only use a single pin. But my comfort shooting range is 25 yds. or less.Since we are in the middle of hunting season, i wouldn't mess with it , other than to eliminate the 10 yrd. pin and see where it shoots for you.

Don't mess with the poundage,arrow length, or weight of the heads. These will have almost no effect at that short of a distance, but could mess up the tuning .

It also sounds like your shooting form is lacking when shooting out of a stand! Be certain to bend at the waist, and not just tilt your arm down .This should keep things in line better.

Not to sound like a smart @@@s, but my advice would to get thru this season, then go to a shooting range and get some help with your set-up. It sounds like you need to adjust your nock pt., or ?? I shoot fingers, and am long ways from the top of the shooting window with my sight bracket.

Hopefully Deitz or some of the other experts will chime in with more info!

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As others have said, maybe you dont need a 10 yard pin.. I use 3 pins, 15-30-45... The only way your going to get a 10 yard pin from the sounds of it, is to change your anchor point. Which I do not suggest.

DO you have a pict of yourself at full draw?

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i shoot 60 pounds at 26 inches minus the OVERDRAW so i think the arrows go fast as heck and thats why my pins are way up there i can still shoot great at all yardage but like i said sometimes with everything going on its a bit difficult i might just eliminate the top pin if and when i cant use it. the difference between pins is maybe 2 inches or so

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sorry, I was wanting to see your anchor point, to see if we could give some advice on that.

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ill have to wait until my wife can take a picture its just me right now

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For hunting purposes I agree with others and I don't think you want to change for this year.

I'm pretty sure if you move your peep further down on your string it should force your sight bracket down and get you more into the "sight window" on your riser. However, as close as your 10 and 20 yard pins are, I'd still consider getting rid of the 10 yard pin.

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This is were a profesional tuning job would come into play. Your anker points and peep sight would need to be shifted after shifting your rest hight down. (if it is adjustable)

But that is only if it is adjustable. Otherwise, You will have to go with the suggestions above.

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if i were to buy one of those sights that extends out like 4 inches in front of the bow i think that would help too for this year ill leave it as is and then ill have to look into it later

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Hate to sound like a broken record, but if you arrows are flying as fast as you say, just eliminate the 10 yard pin and like mentioned earlier, aim with you 20 and you shouldn't see much of a difference in impact point. If there is much, just aim a little low with the 20 yard pin. I personally shoot a three pin set up, 20 30 and 40. I have taken deer as close as 5 yards though, just gotta remember where that arrow is going at that close of a range.

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cool advise guys yeah i think thats what ill do. eliminate the top 10 yard pin and just practice using the 20 yard pin. By the way the bow had the cables, arrow rest replaced, the peep sight adjusted and added, and proffesionally adjusted and tuned by CABIN FEVER in VICTORIA and they did a great job I attribute the very consistent shooting to them. im only on my second year bow hunting. the only issue i have had is that pin besides that i wouldnt trade this bow for anything. I should also mention this vapor bow was bought used on [YouNeedAuthorization] last year. thanks guys for the advice

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I'm with Deitz , in that a picture of your anchor pt. would help. Extending a sight more out in front of your bow won't help alot, and can be a pain for hunting. I'm guessing you have a very low anchor pt.,or a rest that is sitting up quite a bit.

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I would change something before next season. At this point you don't have much play to adjust your sights up even if you eliminate the 10 yard pin. You need to have some play there for possible future adjustments.

Where abouts is your anchor point? My release basically touches the corner of my mouth as I'm shooting.

This year I had some problems tuning my bow. The tear was leading me to the wrong "fix". After I thought I had it pretty good I sighted in and my sight bracket ran out as far as it could to the left and I just wasn't satisfied.

I finally figured out that my fall away rest needed to go up. Then I started throwing bullet holes and my sight bracket moved back to where it should be.

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another thing you may need to check is to see that your bow is square. If the string stretched at all, or the rest was bumped or nocking point moved this would all contribute to the need for your sites to be up higher. If you didn't know you can check this by seeing if your arrow is level when it is on the rest when the bow string is straight up and down. You also want to make sure that the arrow passes directly even with the site holes that are in your riser (the threaded holes where the site bolt attatches) if it is not even then you need to change your nocking point or adjust your rest. If all of this looks good then I would agree with these other guys that you could just do away with your 10 yard pin all together, instead just compensate with your 20. However with this being the middle of the season it is probably best not to do anything until the time compes to put it away.

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if you look at the pics i posted you can tell that the pin regardless of anchor point or anything else is already almost obstructed. i will still take a picture tonight because i know you guys can help me with my flaws and that would be great also. the bow since i set it up the 1st day has been exactly the same. still shooting the bulls eyes as when i started and nothing has changed except that as time goes by I thought I should go ahead and ask about it so i could do a change. I still can see the 10 yard pin but just the 0 which is all i need i just dont want to mess up when the adrenalin rushes and all is happening any little, small insignificant thing becomes the larges most painfull thing he he.

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Quote:
if you look at the pics i posted you can tell that the pin regardless of anchor point or anything else is already almost obstructed.

But if your anchor point is changed, it will move all your pins. I cant remember which say, If you lower your anchor point, all your pins will need to be shifted down, I think I have that right, it could be the other way around though.

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Dietz is right. It's a basic 3 point aiming system.

Use your two index fingers, one like your peep and the other like your sights and line them up at a point on the wall. If you lower your back most finger (i.e. the peep sight) and try and line it up, you need to move your pins (other finger) down to hit the same point on the wall.

If your anchor is the same then you may need to move your rest/nocking point. IMO, you will need to move something to give yourself more play with your sights in the future.

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im going to definetely take a few pics tonight and post them guys. you are giving me great advice and hope you can get me the best way to go on this. if i find that i just need to move my sight down im going to VICTORIA to cabin fever and have my stuff moved down ill sight in the 10 yard pin and the other ones should be dead on but ill still check them. I actually think my sights screws are a bit worn and might be stripping so while im there i might get a new sight and go ahead and re sight everything i will have to wait till the gun season starts so that i can concentrate on rifle and have those 2 or 3 weeks to prep my bow and myself for the late bow season.

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are you sure your peep sight is right where you want it to be, not where the guy tuning your bow thought it belonged. a lot of sight cages have a green, white, or orange, sometimes even glow in the dark ring on them. this is so when you go to full draw, this ring should be on the outside of the hole when you look through your peep. if you have to shift, or adjust the bow to comfortably see the sights, that colored ring in particular, then your peep isn't in the right spot.

my brother had this problem with his bow. i asked him if he checked the peep after he had one tied on and he said no, the guy installing it did. so i slid it up 1/2 an inch, and it made a huge difference

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this is the way i anchor myself fist next to me ear lobe with my trigger finger straight with the side of my mouth pointing towards the target. these were all taken at different times so i believe i have a pretty consistent anchor point?

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