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Question of building a fish house.

13 posts in this topic

I'm planning a fishhouse. Frame is 6.5 X 14, going to put 3/4 treated plywood for floor and probably use 2x2 treated lumber for walls. Question is, what is the best way to fasten the floor boards to the frame, also best way to fasten walls to floorboard/frame?

My best guess would be to drill holes through the frame and bolt floor boards in the middle sections of the frame making sure heads of bolts are embedded so they don't cut through the carpet. Then drill holes through the wall base(would it be the sill??), floor boards, and frame and bolt all the way through the walls/floor/frame to hold it all together.

Trying to get all the details taken care of before the actual task so this may be the first of many questions. I've read the entire thread on "Building A Crank-up Style Fishhouse" which has been regular encyclopedia of information too.

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Sorry cant think of the name of the fastener off hand but its got a 3/4" wide, flat head.(not a carriage bolt) You can get it as a bolt or self taping screw. You counted sink your hole and this head will sit flush to the floor. You wont find it at Menard's so go to a shop that specializes in fasteners. Not only should you fasten the floor down you should also fasten the walls to the frame. Go through the bottom plate and into the frame. L brackets on each stud to the bottom plate is cheap insurance too.

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Also, use construction adhesive, the wood will tear before the bond breaks.

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I have one other suggestion, in the floor I'd use 1/2" plywood, then add 1" dense styrofoam, then top it off iwth 3/8" plywood, kinda like a sandwich. You won't believe the difference in how warm the house is near the floor.

Ole

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I would definitely insulate the floor!
I didn't,now i'm under the floor cutting insulation too fit cuz the floor was so Da** cold.It would be lots easer now!

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Try Too Fish
Forced Too Work!!:)

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scroll down to ice fishing main form.
lots of good info.
weld threaded studs to frame for fasting floor and bottom plate. weld angle iron 1 1/2" down from top of frame then set rigid insullation on angle lip then plywood top of frame
(less lbs & $$) also good idea if you want your investment to last is to coat frame with brush on truck bed liner coating.

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you can also build the house leave the outside off and have someone spray the expandable foam then put the siding on. thats how i am doing my new house. one layer of plywood on the floor and they will spray from the bottom up. should be very light house. i am trying alot of new things on this one, one of these houses i will get right.

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Ole is right the floor in my house is 1/2" Green Treated 1/2" foam 1/2" green treated on top again. Make sure to go with treated plywood for the floor because no matter how hard you try the floor always gets wet. That foam makes a heck of a difference. Good luck anymore questions go ahead and ask we are here for help.

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Grip it and Rip it

IFFWalleyes
I Fish For Walleyes

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Hawkeye - Who is doing the spraying of the insulation for you? And how much is that going to run to have it done? I have always thought that would be the best solution for insulating one of these things!
Camo

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for an 8x12 it about $250 to 300. if you email me at kmader@frontiernet.net i will let you more

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Thanks for all the responses.

I've thought about the angle iron idea, laying the insulation right between all the frame posts but what about rodents?

I would think that would be a perfect place for rodents to "dig in" and make their homes. I've heard of designs similar to this where the insullation boards are left open to the elements on the bottom of the house. Anyone have luck with this type of design? I would think that if the rodents didn't get it, road hazards (ice heaves, rocks, other) would chip away at it over the years.

Heat rises - cold sinks, how necessary is it to really have an insullated floor? I'm guessing it would add another $200 minimum. I'd be interested in hearing arguments on both sides of that before throwing another $200 at it. How much of a savings in propane would it be for a weekend user over a season??

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tanseys, you answered your question yourself, heat rises and cold sinks. Colder air on the floor PLUS sitting on top of ice. Your body's gonna be closer to the floor when in the house. You won't be sorry insulating the floor.

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tanseys
Besides the comfort factor you will also notice that your house don't melt in at all!(at least mine don't, but its never in one spot for more than a week) and the gas saving is realistic!
On the wall thing i put foam board between the studs and cut the foam a little smaller that the opening then i sprayed that foam sealant in the gap all the way around.that way when it expanded there was no way that there was a draft crack and it bonds too the studs like glue and it only took about 9 or 10 cans for a 7x14 house.or about $30
good luck

------------------
Try Too Fish
Forced Too Work!!:)

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