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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Stickjiggler

06 Mariner AGAIN. UGH

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Since my last post about it not starting, it has developed another issue. The power door locks will not unlock the driver door. All other doors will unlock fine. All the key fobs will lock all doors and activate the alarm but not unlock the drivers door. The button on the door panel also locks it but wont unlock it. 

The only way to unlock it is by the key from the outside or pulling the handle from the inside.

Maybe these two issues are related?

PLEASE HELP.

THANKS. I  wish some of you guys lived closer to me. You seem to know what you are talking about and have helped many people on this page. Thanks again and we all appreciate your input.

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The drivers front door unlock is on a separate circuit. the unlock is controlled by the driver unlock relay in the smart junction block. I am not entirely sure if this relay is serviceable or if it is an integral part of the smart junction block, With the door panel removed you should see a red w/orange wire going to the lock/unlock actuator. This wire is normally grounded through the unlock relay in the SJB. When the unlock is requested the relay supplies power to this wire. If there is no power to this wire when the unlock button is pushed then it would be reasonable to assume the relay has failed. It is also reasonable to assume that the integrity of the wire and circuit is o.k. since the lock function works. Only two wires run to the motor itself. those two wires can either be power or ground depending on what way the motor need to turn in order to unlock or lock the vehicle. Finding out if there is power to that red with orange wire should tell you what is going on.

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There is also a tire monitor fault that will not go away. Pressure is fine in all tires. I think this was all caused when the battery was drained. Other research leads me to believe that the aftermarket remote start is draining the battery when it sits for a few days. Someone suggested that the sjb needs to be woke up with a scanner? Anyone ever hear of this? Not sure if I can have the remote start removed and get my $ back or not. 

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Is the low tire light on steady or is it flashing?

What have the tire pressures been set to?

how far has the vehicle been driven since the tire pressures where checked?

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The low tire symbol goes away after a little bit, but the words "tire monitor fault" remain. If I press set to clear it just comes back the next time the vehicle is started.

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If it is blinking there is a problem with the system. It could be any number of things but a scan for codes might shed some light and put all the pieces together for all the problems that seem to be happening all at the same time. You will need a high end scan tool to get into the TPMS system. If you paid less than $3k for the scan tool you probably wont be getting TPMS codes. It could be as simple as a bad TPMS senor or the module has lost the one or more sensor ID's.

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6 hours ago, Stickjiggler said:

The low tire symbol goes away after a little bit, but the words "tire monitor fault" remain. If I press set to clear it just comes back the next time the vehicle is started.

I have this same thing going on right now in my 2009 Saturn Vue. Mine is a bad sensor battery in my front right tire. They want $185 bucks to replace it. The Tire monitor system fault comes up every time I start the SUV I can clear it but it just comes back on again each time i start the SUV up.

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I am having the remote start sysrem removed on Wednesday.  After that I need to get it hooked up to a scanner. Is this something that I need to have done at a dealership or can it be done somewhere else cheaper?

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3 hours ago, Macgyver55 said:

$185 sure seems steep to me considering a new sensor is only $50-$55 retail. Either that or I work way too cheap!

Your right, the unit is not that much but they charge to pull the tire off  install the new sensor and reinstall the tire. Since I didn't know, I ask geez it costs that much to put a new little battery in there? He said well they only sell it as a unit with the battery inside! :(

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I can say as a mechanic.....I love my 62 VW as my daily driver.......Nothing to go wrong....ever. I no longer wrench full time. I feel for ya though, the diagnostics can be a hassle and sometimes a crazy task to chase down. Dont get too frustrated though, the technology now is incredible and I think its worth a little pain now and then......Remember when 100k miles was a lot? LOL!

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5 hours ago, Richj said:

I can say as a mechanic.....I love my 62 VW as my daily driver.......Nothing to go wrong....ever. I no longer wrench full time. I feel for ya though, the diagnostics can be a hassle and sometimes a crazy task to chase down. Dont get too frustrated though, the technology now is incredible and I think its worth a little pain now and then......Remember when 100k miles was a lot? LOL!

Nothing to go wrong, ever?   That's a good one.  ROFL

We drove a 68 beetle until 85.   Set the valves every few thousand, points, plugs, not to mention the little incident with the exhaust valve breaking off while driving down the highway.   Oil filter was a piece of window screen.  I can go on and on. 

Modern cars are so far superior there is no comparison.  

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2 minutes ago, delcecchi said:

Nothing to go wrong, ever?   That's a good one.  ROFL

We drove a 68 beetle until 85.   Set the valves every few thousand, points, plugs, not to mention the little incident with the exhaust valve breaking off while driving down the highway.   Oil filter was a piece of window screen.  I can go on and on. 

Modern cars are so far superior there is no comparison.  

I totaly agree the tech is far better........My current daily Ive put 70k on in 5 years thats a 62 beetle......But I also love to do the bits of maint. I adjust valves at 10k and check ign at the same time......Check engine light has never come on once!;)

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7 minutes ago, Richj said:

I totaly agree the tech is far better........My current daily Ive put 70k on in 5 years thats a 62 beetle......But I also love to do the bits of maint. I adjust valves at 10k and check ign at the same time......Check engine light has never come on once!;)

The check engine "light" on my 68 

14520117241321922751654.thumb.jpg.348bbf

Not to mention not being able to hold speed limit in a headwind.

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1 minute ago, delcecchi said:

The check engine "light" on my 68 

14520117241321922751654.thumb.jpg.348bbf

Not to mention not being able to hold speed limit in a headwind.

OMG! Well.....Lucky a top end is only a couple hundred ans an hour or two! Ha!!!! My max speed is 70 in the 62.....and my 59 will hold about 75.....Go figure....

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Did it myself in the carport and on the patio of our apartment in Salinas.  Out in California, the life of a VW engine seemed to be right around 40k miles.  One of the civilian employees commuted from Santa Cruz to our base at Hunter Liggett, pushing 150 miles one way.  They had a barracks for the contractors, so he did it like every other day.  He kept a spare engine in the garage, and swapped them every 30k or so.   Had the body work cut off so the engine could come straight back.  

Drove ours from St Paul to Monterey. 
Got passed by 18 wheelers on the uphills. 

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22 hours ago, leech~~ said:

Your right, the unit is not that much but they charge to pull the tire off  install the new sensor and reinstall the tire. Since I didn't know, I ask geez it costs that much to put a new little battery in there? He said well they only sell it as a unit with the battery inside! :(

Breaking the bead,  installing the sensor, re-inflating, and putting the tire back on is about a 15 minute job tops!  I'm just saying 130 is out of line in my book. Not sure where you went but that's over an hour labor charge in most shops. Most tire shops will remove and patch a tire for 25 bucks and that is more work than replacing a TPMS.:2c:

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we do them for about $110 installed. Some sensors are a little more some are a little less. Deflate the tire, break the outside bead. push the bead down replace the sensor inflate the tire. Don't even have to dismount or balance the tire when done. Take about seven minutes on a good day! ;)

 

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2 hours ago, Macgyver55 said:

Breaking the bead,  installing the sensor, re-inflating, and putting the tire back on is about a 15 minute job tops!  I'm just saying 130 is out of line in my book. Not sure where you went but that's over an hour labor charge in most shops. Most tire shops will remove and patch a tire for 25 bucks and that is more work than replacing a TPMS.:2c:

Don't want to give the name of the over priced service center. It may get me banded! :D

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7 hours ago, Stickjiggler said:

Thanks for all the" relevant" responses. I will keep updating as I figure it all out.

Sorry....I'll delete mine.

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