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Cat Tip of the Day: Slip Rig Options


SteveD

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For most catfishermen the standard slip sinker rig probably makes up 90% of their bait presentation. It is a method that is effective for live and dead bait and works especially well for presenting large livebaits for catfish. The main part of the rig is the sinker sliding on the line above a swivel. A slip sinker is exactly that, it normally has a hole designed to allow the main line to pass through it so it can freely slide up and down the main line. The swivel’s purpose is to take the twist out of the line from a lively swimming bait or a piece of cut bait twisting in the current. A leader is then attached to the swivel giving the angler versatility in type of hook to use or length of leader to use.

Sinkers: They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Egg sinkers; Pyramid sinkers; No-Roll Sinkers; Bank sinkers; etc., etc. They all work and almost all have their champions. When fishing in light current or in lakes and reservoirs an egg sinker may be the perfect choice. When presenting bait in current situations near heavy cover where you want that bait to hold in a specific spot a flat sinker like a No-Roll or a Pyramid sinker may be what is needed to keep the current from rolling the sinker into snags or debris. When drifting or slow trolling for cats a walking slip sinker like a Lindy sinker or Slinky sinker may get you down to the depth you are looking for and by their design walk through the rocks or sticks and keep you from getting hung up.

Leaders: The placement of the sinker in relation to the bait determines the bait action. The closer the sinker is placed to the hook, the more control you will have over bait action and the likelihood of snagging. Conversely, the farther the sinker is from the hook the more freedom of movement you give the bait but also the more freedom for that bait to get snagged in rocks or debris. With a slip sinker rig you control how far the bait is from the slip sinker by varying the length of the leader you will use. The rule of thumb - the shorter the leader the less likelihood of getting snagged. In some cases where there is heavy current and lots of rocks and debris the choice may be no leader at all and to have the sinker slide right up to the hook. There are times where this is the preferred and most effective presentation. The type of line to use for a leader is an angler’s personal preference. Suffice it to say that for cats – use whatever you want, they are not leader shy so you don’t have to go to great pains to try to come up with an invisible leader. I personally use high test HiVis PowerPro for my leaders mainly because it is easy to tie and easy see in the dark.

Basic Slip Rig: Here are some photos of standard slip rigs. Picture #1 is a slip rig using a No-Roll sinker. Note the main line just goes through the sinker to a swivel to which your leader is attached. No-Roll sinkers come in sizes from a 1/2 ounce to up to 8 ounces or more. They will hold a bait very well in heavy current areas.

sliprig1IDA.jpg

Picture #2 is a standard slip rig using a bank sinker. Bank sinkers also come in a large variety of sizes and are very good for anchoring a bait in strong current. Some folks will add a bead between the sinker and the swivel to try to protect the knot from getting beat up by the sinker as shown in the picture.

sliprig2IDA.jpg

Slip Rig Options:

Sinker Slide: Last year I was fishing with Larry Haugh AKA Larry Flatcaster and he introduced me to a device called a Sinker Slide. He gave me a few to try out and I immediately became hooked on them. The Sinker Slide is a plastic device with a snap attached to it. You thread your main line through the sinker slide so that it slides easily up and down the line and then attach your swivel and leader to complete the slip rig. The snap on the bottom of the sinker slide allows you to attach a sinker to your rig but it gives you a lot of flexibility with sinkers allowing you to change sinkers quickly without having to retie your rig. Larry was using Pyramid sinkers that have a brass eye on the top of the sinker and he would just snap the sinker on the sinker slide and he was in business. I like to use flat bank sinkers that didn’t fit the snap on the Sinker Slide too well so I just modified my rig by hooking a rubber band on the flat bank sinker and then hanging the rubber band on the snap of the sinker slide. It works excellent and if the sinker gets hung up I just tug the main line until the rubber band breaks and I don’t lose my entire rig. You can just hang a new sinker on the sinker slide and get your hook back in the water quickly. Photo #3 is a picture of a sinker slide with my flat bank sinker hookup.

sliprig3IDA.jpg

John Jamison’s Dropper Slip Rig: I was reading an In-Fisherman article on fishing for winter blue cats. Legendary Missouri River tournament Blue Cat angler John Jamison was talking about one of his preferred slip rigs for fishing around a lot of rock. He uses a dropper – a bank sinker attached to a 4 to 6 inch section of 20# mono. The dropper is hung on the mainline using a snap swivel and then he adds a bead and then ties a swivel to the end of the main line to which he attaches his leader. If the sinker gets snagged, the dropper breaks, saving the rest of the rig. Photo #4 is a picture of the Jamison Dropper Slip Rig.

sliprig4IDA.jpg

This is kind of a quick and clean tip on cat slip rigs and some proven options that work. You can see that it is not rocket science and to not be afraid to experiment with different sinker styles or rigging options. The objective is to get a bait in front of a big catfish – once he finds it just hang on.

Good fishing.

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Another great addition to the tips Steve! Thanks again

It's nice to have the images with the descriptions, a picture is worth a thousand words.

I guess I'm a number 2 guy just out of habit, but I really like your rubber band setup.

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Very cool post Steve. I guess I've always stuck to what works best for me so many of these concepts are new. I will surely try a few of these out this spring. Thanks for sharing and keep em' coming! Cheers.

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Another great addition to the tips Steve! Thanks again

It's nice to have the images with the descriptions, a picture is worth a thousand words.

I guess I'm a number 2 guy just out of habit, but I really like your rubber band setup.

I have been trying #3 the rubber band setup and really like it! However, do not try to over hand smack your bait on the water to take your bait off when you are done fishing. Your rubber band will break and by by sinker frown I learned the hard way. From now on I am taking my bait off the way i put it on!

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This is true I've seen it ( above )

You should have seen it the other night after you left. I moved up river just a tad. Fresh bullie just put on and I took one of my signature run casts I showed you the other night. "I totally would have made it across the river on this one too!!" BAM! My rubber band snapped, my 80# test I tied on there as a safety blanket snapped and boom I had the worlds biggest backlash in my reel. Luckily after pulling out almost 50 yards of line I was back in business....... Stupid cheap rubber bands!!!!! madmadmad

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Number 4 is nice for saving your rigs in snags but I have had major problems trying this because the sinker was wrapping around my leader on casts and was no longer a slip sinker.

I use the first method you have but I am sick of re-tying my line all the time because those no-rolls have two contact points and those sinker holes on all types sometimes will have a sharp point and they tear my line above the swivel.

Where do you guys get those sinker slides? I noticed Team Catfish sells them but was wondering if there is an easy way to make them or maybe a cheaper source?

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Where do you guys get those sinker slides? I noticed Team Catfish sells them but was wondering if there is an easy way to make them or maybe a cheaper source?

I get mine from catfish connection online. Waaaaaaaay cheaper than the team catfish type. 2 for a buck something? I get them for less than 20 cents.

It looks like the sinker slide in pic 3 came from CFC. For some reason those slides have a little T bar on the top that likes to tangle up in the line. I don't know what the purpose of that T bar is, I think it might be an artifact from manufacturing. Anyway, it snaps off really easy with your thumb. Just remember to break it off to keep line tangles to a minimum.

Also, the sinker clip is offset to one side. Make sure the clip is positioned furthest from the swivel like shown in pic 3.

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No prob. That's what these forums are for.

I'm lovin' that mustard flat in your avatar.

That was my very first flat head ever, and my PB. She also is still in that area. My buddy hooked up with her and she broke free right by shore. It was the fish that got me hooked for sure! However it spoiled me too. I have yet to catch one near that size since frown And I want a bigger one =\ maybe some day!

Thanks guys.

I was actually wondering about the color. It seems all the cats I catch near the jordan access have a bit more green but still have some yellow in them. Further up where I caught this one, all the fish we catch are rather yellow. Does anyone know what causes their color? I can imagine their habitat and water depth have a big role.....

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Steve I don't want to step on your thread but I have an added rigging tip that has proven wise over the years on any slip rigging.

What I has discovered over the years is a large part of lost slip rigged tackle comes from line wear at the knot or damage to the knot due to the weight beating or rubbing against the area.

Beads help to a point, and I also recommend not to use glass beads put plastic beads, as glass can chatter or chip from the force of the weight striking it.

My main tip is pick up a few feet of aquarium hose and cut it into 1" sections with a side cutter or like instrument. For lighter slip rigs, commonly used for walleye rigs, use 1/8" surgical tubing.

Now on any slip rig add it just above the swivel and below the weight, and I also like a 10 mm bead above the tube so the weight strikes the bead and the tubing will slip over your knot and suck up to the ball of a #3 or #5 barrel swivel protecting it from damage. Same practice has proven effective on weight shuttle systems as they too can cause line wear or damage the knot over time.

A simple shock absorber is what is accomplished with the tubing trick, and will not effect the function of the swivel. I also believe the bumper action of the shock tube will help at times to bounce a snagged up weight free and further lessen loss.

You will loose less tackle with the use of the shock tube, give it a go and see for yourself.

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Originally Posted By: MinnesnowtaWild

Where do you guys get those sinker slides? I noticed Team Catfish sells them but was wondering if there is an easy way to make them or maybe a cheaper source?

I get mine from catfish connection online. Waaaaaaaay cheaper than the team catfish type. 2 for a buck something? I get them for less than 20 cents.

It looks like the sinker slide in pic 3 came from CFC. For some reason those slides have a little T bar on the top that likes to tangle up in the line. I don't know what the purpose of that T bar is, I think it might be an artifact from manufacturing. Anyway, it snaps off really easy with your thumb. Just remember to break it off to keep line tangles to a minimum.

Also, the sinker clip is offset to one side. Make sure the clip is positioned furthest from the swivel like shown in pic 3.

search for SeaStriker slides on the big auction site. I got them four about 6 cents apiece I think. Go with the number 6's

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Originally Posted By: MinnesnowtaWild
Number 4 is nice for saving your rigs in snags but I have had major problems trying this because the sinker was wrapping around my leader on casts and was no longer a slip sinker.

Try using a three way swivel and just put some mono from the sinker to the three way. I also try to keep my sinker leader shorter than my hook leader when using a three way. Less chance of tangle.

Originally Posted By: MinnesnowtaWild
I use the first method you have but I am sick of re-tying my line all the time because those no-rolls have two contact points and those sinker holes on all types sometimes will have a sharp point and they tear my line above the swivel.

Stick a bead on there as well. I always put a decent size bead to protect my knot if I am using a slip rig.

Originally Posted By: MinnesnowtaWild

Where do you guys get those sinker slides? I noticed Team Catfish sells them but was wondering if there is an easy way to make them or maybe a cheaper source?

I got mine at Fleet farm. They are pretty cheap actually I think I got 2 of them for a buck something.

Jeff as for the bullhead. Only time I want to slap my bait on the water or jerk it free is when I am leaving. I will stick to how i hook them. I NEVER throw old bait in the river unless I am calling it a night. I do not want to give those suckers a free meal while I am fishing. They always get tossed on shore or disposed of in a fire. HKK has seen me do this several times.

Just my .02$

Its true Ihave seen it

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