Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Fletching, Range finder questions


MIDNIGHT777

Recommended Posts

1. Does anyone use a range finder for bow hunting? I was thinking about buying one to use for measuring distances from my stand. Do they work for shooting objects like a tree or rock to get distance, and how big does object have to be?

2. What is the best way to remove feather flethcings and glue from carbon arrows? Can new fletchings be put on?

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would paste in the Cabelas link but it's about five miles long. Just go to Cabelas.com and click on Archery and then on Flecthings/Jigs/Nocks. There are a few fletch removing tools to chose from. Very easy to do. You'll need a jig, new vanes or feathers and good glue. If your new to doing it, I'd go to Bwana or Compound Doctor in the northern TC suburbs and get a hands on lesson.

As far as range finders go, I've just borrowed one once, a Nikon I believe. It just needed a decent size rock/boulder, tree, or a deer to find your distance. Pretty sweet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, with lazer ranger finders you just need to point them at an object and you will get its distance..

As for taking the fletching off... there are tools made for it..if your very carefull you can take the old flethings off with a razor blade... Here is the tool that the previous post talked about
sau-1145-125x100.jpg

And yes if you buy a fletching jig.. flething is quite easy and rewarding.. you get your arrows exactly the way you want them....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rangefinders are great and woud recommend them to anyone,laser ones are very easy to use.
as far as fletching, I would practice on a few old arrows first.The only tricky part is applying the right ammount of glue. Bwana is a great place to check into this.Talk to John Larson.

------------------
If people weren't supposed to eat animals.
Why are they made out of meat??
FM Stickersl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fletching remover posted above is awesome for aluminum arrows but will remove some carbon fibers from the arrow shaft when used on carbon arrows. I re-fletch approximately 20 dozen arrows a year with a 50/50 mix of aluminums and carbons. The best thing I have found to date for carbons is a sharp fillet knife and not to apply lots of pressure while scraping off the feathers. I apply minimal pressure on the knife and scrape very quickly back and forth to remove the feather and glue. This is a personal thing but this has worked the best for me and many other top archers that I know and trust.

If you have any questions let me know.

Thanks,
Russ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies!!!!

The other day I tried using a Stanley utility knife on my carbon arrows. I tried really hard to be gentle on them and not knick the carbon. It seemed to work fine. I just was not sure if I should be using this method or not.

Anyone know the difference between the $400 and $150 range finders?

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey. as far as range finders, if you just plan on using it for archery, go with the cheaper model. most high end ones are more for rifle hunting. i don't own one, but have used them mainly for sighting in my scope for elk hunting.
if just bowhunting, i step off a few landmarks so when i'm in my stand/blind i have a yardage reference. things can get a little iffy when that buck sneaks in on ya.

------------------
spawn til you die,
perch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The difference between more expensive rangefinders and cheaper ones are usually in the optics, quality of glass used, etc. As far as accuracy goes, two different articles that I read said that there is virtually now difference when expensive and less expensive models were tested.

As far as fletching goes, buy a quality jig like a Bitzenburger, don't buy a plastic jig, I had an EZ-fletch and broke an arm off . Spend the money on a quality metal jig. I use Loctite Super Glue gel, much cheaper than "Fletching specific" glues and it works great $2 or less per bottle vs. $6 and up, and it's the same glue. Don't overkill the amount of glue, a minimal amount is needed. This glue works great. I use an old rapala filet knife to remove fletch and glue, then clean the shaft with Acetone until a paper towel comes out clean. Let it dry thoroughly before fletching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i can't afford a rangefinder right now so i measure distances off from the bottom of my tree and out to the maximun distance (30-35 yards) i'm willing to shoot, then i'll mark it with a stick or a ribbon or whatever, makes it easier to tell if that deer is in range or not when the big moment comes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, in relation to re-fletching, some mention they use rubbing alcohol/acetone...etc. I strongly suggest against using this on any carbon arrow as it will chemically break down the outer layers of carbon fibers. When fletching aluminums I will use an alcohol to clean the greases off the arrows surface, unfortunately carbons are a completely different shaft. I also use cheaper super glues as they will do the same job as your more expensive glues. In my last 10 years of shooting I have not lost any fletching yet and I average over 1000 arrows per week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.