Trolling Thoughts

[SM1]

Say im running a inline planner with the front clamp and rear pigtail setup, and a snap weight with a crankbait...

If I had a good hit and the front release let go on the planner, would the board knock off the snap weight when reeling in the fish? If so how could I keep this setup and not loose the snap weight?

I'm thinking a couple things but would like to see what others have in mind.

[DaveZman14q]

no clue you are much more advanced than I... sorry for the worthless post!

[PerchJerker]

I would guess you'd knock the snap weight off most of the time.

I run snap weights behind boards at times but I clamp by boards on front and back, with double or triple line wraps to make sure they stay on the line. And I put double line wraps in the snap weights too.

I use leadcore line much more than snap weights now, maybe that's an option for you???

[fishermatt]

The "Pro's Pointers" sheet that comes with the Off Shore side planer mentions looping the line around the OR14 release a second time to prevent it from sliding or releasing. That should solve your issue.

[fiskyknut]

SM1, get yourself the red offshore clip with the pin deeleybob in it, or18 maybe?? Those won't come off. There is another clip out there that goes on with a slot/sleeve that won't come off either, a tad smallet that offshore clips, they're called an 'Alberta clipper', I got mine in Michigan back in the 90's so I'm not sure where or even if these are still availiable??

[RiverBassGuy]

You can also think about running like 20lb fire line and double wrapping it around the tension clip on your planer board. Works great for keeping the line from detaching, and I've never had the line break because of it! Good luck

[SM1]

Its sounding like with wrapping the line around the releases on the board and snaps, they will stay attached. I would have to wrap anyway because I like using fireline. I have never used leadcore, but I could look into it.

I went in to pick up some of the off shore snap weights, but the store didn’t have the summer stuff out yet. That’s ok, I wont need them for a few months at least.

I plan on using them mainly on a couple sealine 27lc reels with 8' rods. I haven’t spooled them up yet, but I was planning on running some crystal fireline. Maybe 10/4? Probably wouldn’t hurt to go a little heavier line?

[goose89]

You be wise to stick with the 10/4 Fireline (could use anything for backing) or 10# Trilene XT. These are the two lines you'll find depth curves for in trolling guides like Precision Trolling. You'll want to pick on of these up if you haven't also. Good luck.

[PerchJerker]

If possible I run my boards on mono, the boards hold much better to mono and you don't need no-stretch sensitivity when pulling boards.

I slso run boards on thin superlines at times when I want the greater diving depth, and have been able to do it with line wraps in the clips. Given the choice though I would run mono every time.

[Northlander]

I also have gone to mono on my boards about 85% of the time. I like the way it holds in releases better. If I cant get deep enough with mono I use a snap weight or lead core.

There are some great board releases made for the superlines and I may just get a few (pricey) and see how they do.

By the way dont buy the tattle tail flag systems. WAY too pricey. You can get everything you need for about $5 at a Menards or simular shop. I made up 6 boards for under $10. I had the flags already but you can use small mail box flags from Menards.

[SM1]

Now I’m on the fence between the mono and fireline.

I would like to be somewhat versatile and still use these rods for downrigging when not pulling boards. At $100 a pop for the reels plus rod it adds up quick. I’m building my arsenal as I go, not as painful that way. I have other bait casters I use on the riggers but these 27's are my first lc reels.

For downrigging I use the dubro adjustable release’s. By looping the fireling 6 or 8 times around my finger and putting the loop through the release clip, it stays nice and tight between rod tip and ball. It doesn’t seem like mono would get tight like that and would leave memory?? I have never used mono with these releases.....but for the most part I don’t think I could go back to an off shore release.

[hanso612]

I use inline planer boards on both the big lakes and inland waters. I learned quickly, that if you let the board slide all the way to the fish you are going to lose fish. I use a big swivel or bead ahead of my 6 foot 20lb flourocarbon leader to stop the board. It also helps newbies from realing the fish in too far.

I also decided I like the board not to come off at all. I like to use heavy Offshore releases with the pin and get the board to the boat,take it off by hand, then fight the fish. This works great on the inside boards- most times you just fight the smaller fish up the chute without having to bring in other lines.

On the outside boards, a small fish usually rides up and over the inside boad if you keep the boat at speed. Big fish go where they please-and I usually bring in the inside boards on the fish side if I know it is a big one, but most fish ride up and over the other line if you just drop the inside rod a little.

All of this seems to work better if I get the board off and into the boat first. Tangles happen when I get the board halfway in and I am not carefull about keeping the board bitting in the water until I'm ready to lift it in the boat. If it bounces then releases halfway in over another rig it's a fire drill.

I like 17 pound Trilene XT mono. It is thick enough to have minimal stretch yet still easy to work with. It sticks in the pinch pads well and isn't so heavy it uses alot of spool space- hurting capacity.

Lighter mono stretches and coils on itself when used after a snag or big fish. It just doesn't hold up long enough to warrant the few extra feet of depth you get by running it.

Thin lines are hard to tie in the dark, in the wind, or in a rocking boat or with cold hands. It's usually a combination of 3 or more of the above.

I would use one or two sections of lead core instead of a snap weight if you plan to always have your boards release. Even when released-with a four ounce snap weight and a moderately sized fish you are going to strain light line or any cheap outfit.

I like your philosopy of buying the good stuff a little at a time rather than getting a bunch of cheap stuff all at once. You won't regret it.

Just my two cents worth. Hans