GRA Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 We have a three season porch on our lake cabin that has a steel roof. I would like to put styrafoam in between the 2x4's and then cut ceiling tiles to fit and glue them on top ofthe styrafoam.What adhesive could a person use to glue the styrafoam to the metal roof and then glue the ceiling tiles to the styrafoam? Looking at liquid nails but can't figure out which type of it to use. Or use something else? Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Wettschreck Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 It's either PL-200 or PL-400. I honestly don't remember which one. Read their containers. One will say for styrofoam, the other will say DO NOT use on styrofoam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roofer Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I wouldn't stick anything to steel roofing. It will likely mold and rot very fast. You want to use a foil type if anything. I'm not even sure that will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enids Hubby Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 I dont know about the adhesive .Depending on the spacing of the 2x4's you can staple the ceiling panels to them. You can get the basic white panels in various sizes at the big box store that have a lip that is stapled then the next panel overlaps the joint . Or you could mount 1x4's to the 2x4's and use any size panel you want and then use someting other than styrofoam ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natebuddy Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 PL300 is for foam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Like Roofer said you'll want some air space between the foam and roof. Use soffit and ridge vents. You'd then use stops and 2" foam compression fit in between the rafters. If you want more R then another layer of foam over rafters. Then use a vapor barrier and sheet rock the ceiling. Gluing the ceiling tiles to the foam isn't going to work out to well. For one they need to held in place till the glue dries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRA Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 You're right, I guess I hadn't thought about having to hold them up there till the glue dried. Doubt if I could get the wife to stand there that long. The spaces between the 2x4s are probably about 21 x42. Was mainly looking for a simple way to provide some insulation when the sun is beating down on the steel roof and thought cutting pieces of styrafoam to fit between the 2 x 4s would be a simple way to do it. Then wife didn't think that would look good enough so thought about ceiling tiles over them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surface Tension Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 Yea then go a head and foam in between like I said. Even though your not heating it I'd still leave that air space between the foam and roof. Don't know what code is for exposed foam in a 3 season is but since it's attacked to the house it should probably be covered. Sheet rock is cheap and easy, you'll need to tape it too. If your not up to finishing the joints, some old barn boards on the joints making a grid would look OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 If your only interested in heat reflection,Go with foil backed insulation the cheapest,apply the whole 4x8 sheets to the bottom of rafters or joists (whichever is the ceiling)Then finish it off with finish of your choosing,4x8 sheets of 3/8s rough siding work well and look good,Remember to have some vents to let heat escape from the new enclosed area of ATTIC,soffit vent and roof vent for air flow. If your enclosing only rafters each space between them needs ventilation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom7227 Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 How about spray foam? I've been told there is some that is fire rated and wouldn't require sheetrock. It may not look so good but maybe you could put some rough cut cedar over it or something. I have also been told the stuff is mold proof so maybe that won't be an issue. It's a bit pricey however.What do you pros have to say? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted December 7, 2008 Share Posted December 7, 2008 I've done a few horse barns like that. It looks terrible and its done with no intention of a interior finish,And your right its costly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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