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New fish house project


mediocrates67

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Ok everyone, I'm making the plunge and building a house. I've been part of the sidelines on the FM Ultimate Fish House for long enough...time to do my own. Will post pics as often as I can.

I have a few questions for those of you who have been through this already. I'm looking at an 8x16 with a v-front (similar to the FM Ultimate). I know to get tube steel and not angle iron.

1. What is the difference in paint jobs? I hear about powder coated and there are some that are just painted. Does it matter?

2. If I have a single axle, should I have leaf springs?

3. What is the big advantage to a drop hitch over a straight hitch?

4. Are trailer brakes a necessity?

Thanks in advance for all your help. I can't wait to get this started! Deadminnow has done a great job on his, now it's my turn!

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1) Powder coat is more durable than paint. It won't chip as easily.

2)You will want either leaf springs or a torsion axle. The vast majority of houses have leaf springs as it is an easy system for raising/lowering the house.

3)A drop tongue frame will allow you to lower the house without unhooking from your tow vehicle.

4) Brakes are not needed if the house weighs less than 3,000Lbs. icluding load while being towed.

5) Good luck on your house building project. Have fun.

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Drop Tongue is great for convienince.

If you are going with a 16ft house I would definetly do tandem axle with brakes, that gets to be a sum of weight loaded with gear, build it to last.

Personally I would put tandems and brakes on anything over a 7x14, I just like the way it tows as well as the additional safeties.

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Brakes are nice to have because they take some strain off of the tow vehicle brakes. Also if driving on ice, having trailer brakes helps keep the trailer from pushing the tow vehicle and sending the entire rig into a spin. looking forward to seeing your pics. good luck!

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For your paint question, powder coating is something you would probably have to have professionally done because it requires a big oven to bake the paint. It goes on as powder and the baking process liquifies the powder. The thing to do is find a shop that does this work and ask them how to prep your frame.

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Yes, it would need to be sand blasted to powder coat it. Most of the frames out there are just painted. Don't worry about it, just do a little touch up every year or so as I don't personally think it would be worth the expense to have it powder coated.

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elwood, i've heard that gets heavy. probably expensive too.

now for another question: if i spray foam the underside, can the steel still rust from the inside out? i'd probably have to make sure the whole frame had no exposed rust.

I'm contemplating what to do for the underside, should I leave it and just sandwich some foam over the frame or should i spray foam the underside? the FM Ultimate has spray foam, which is what i'm leaning toward.

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so i found a place to build a frame for me, great price. $1600 for an 8x16 with 4' v-nose, wheels, leaf springs, winches, front winch, epoxy painted, all 4x2 tube steel. is an all 4x2 frame overboard and heavy? most of them are 3x2. i'm probably going to ask for a 4x2 outside frame with a 3x2 inside frame just for weight standpoint. might drop the price $100 too i suppose. any thoughts?

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i don't think 4x2 is too much, we just bought a 8x22 frame and it's 5x2 in the key places with some 2x2 across at plywood seams. It' still flexes a lot. It won't once it's skinned and framed but less may cause premature wearout of walls etc.

As for the rest, herculiner is what we put on ours and its great, your epoxy should be good too, we have considered the options and are spray foaming under and inside.

Good luck!

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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