eurolarva Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 I see garden seeds all over the metro now. Last year was my first garden and I was amazed at the cost of potted plants such as tomatoes. Are there any recommendations here on when to plant these types of seeds indoors and what kind of lighting is needed so they don't become scrawny and leggy? Is it possible to plant tomato seeds outdoors say by Memorial day and still get a good harvest out of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quetico Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Ok, I've done this since I was in kindergarten playing with plants in January in the south facing window. If you want tomatoes from seed start them today. Go out the the garden center and get one of those starter trays with the cover. Tomatoes take longer to get big and mature. I would also start peppers right now as well. Try starting some herbs too.Your vine plants can wait till Mid April. If you want your vines to be huge when planting outside start them now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Originally Posted By: eurolarvaI see garden seeds all over the metro now. Last year was my first garden and I was amazed at the cost of potted plants such as tomatoes. Are there any recommendations here on when to plant these types of seeds indoors and what kind of lighting is needed so they don't become scrawny and leggy? Is it possible to plant tomato seeds outdoors say by Memorial day and still get a good harvest out of them? Euro I just got my planters ready I'll be planting Lots Peppers,tomatos,okra,eggplant,flowers & more nows the time.Packs say 6-8 weeks before outside temps ready I think 8-9 weeks.For strong plants DONT water too much after sprouts and in those trays as in last post,Dont water on top! pour water in the tray so plant cells absorbe water from bottom up,also when plants seem to not be getting biger transplant to larger container--Plastic cup with holes in bottom for water from bottom up.Try BrandyWine tomatos UUMMMM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eurolarva Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share Posted February 27, 2008 So I have no south windows and the windows I have are all Low E. Maybe some 4 foot flourescent lights for a light source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Ya could but east & west windows will be fine,and the direct sun can burn small starting plants.Also if you use the trays with clear lids for greenhouse you'll get molds, and if their on and you remove them the small fragile seedlings will wilt and die.So no direct sun after lids removed.if mold appears remove lid TOO much moisture,wipe lid dry and put it back on if plants start to wilt.Experiment next year you'll have a better understanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walleye Guy Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 You can by 4 ft long flourescent grow lights that fit in the standard fixture. I have used this set up for tomatoes and peppers many times. One thing that you need to be careful with growing inside is the plant reaching towards the light if the light source isn't sufficient. You tend to get tall, spindly and weak plants.The comment of watering from the bottom is a good one. You want your root systems to grow down and then out in the pot. Put your seedlings in small pots and then repot as the root balls grow. If the pot is too large you won't get a solid root ball and they will tend to fall apart when you go to plant then. You will also want to toughen up your plants before you put then in your garden. Start them out outside in an area that is a mix of sum and shade. Do this for a few days. Leave them out for a few hours and them bring them inside. Small plants can get fried by direct sunlight if you put them in the garden without slowly exposing them to the sun.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 walleye I found spindly plants are result of too much water,I also every few days turn planters 180 degrees to stop plant lean to light,No grow lights here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishermatt Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 I've grown several hundred tomato plants indoors using just regular 4' flourescent shop lights not the more expensive grow tubes. Keep the bulbs within 2-3 inches above the plants, more and there's not enough light. To keep plants from getting long and spindly, have a fan blowing on them for an hour or 2 per day to simulate outdoor wind. This causes a process called "thigmomorphogenesis" (cool word) which basically means the plants get stockier instead of long and spindly. Definitely transplant into bigger containers as they grow so the root system can expand. The nice thing about artificial lights is you can leave the lights on for 18-20 hours per day, versus the sun which this time of year is only in your south window for a few hours. One time I had to be gone for almost a week, so I just left the lights on 24 hours and the plants grew like heck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted February 29, 2008 Share Posted February 29, 2008 I am going to pick up some stuff to start my peppers today. I have never done this before, so keep the ideas flowing! Does anyone use the single seed beds that you can plant the whole thing in the spring? I guess they're biodegradable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 OK, so I just got done planting in the "Kit Greenhouse deals". I planted Habenero, Sorrento, Jalapeno, Chili, etc. I also did some cherry tomato. Should I be using a lamp over these to heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 Is your (single seed bed) one tray with no dividers?If so most nurserys use them and will transplant soon after seed sprout,& put them in small cells then to avoid root tangle and damage seperating them.I personally just use a south window,when I plant if I want 6 plants for my garden I'll plant 9-12 and some may not sprout,some may die,if I got too many,neighbors or friends get them,but I keep the strongest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eurolarva Posted March 1, 2008 Author Share Posted March 1, 2008 The fan idea is neat. I am trying to keep costs down so high electricity bills will deter the cost savings of me doing this or buying potted plants. Years ago you used to be able to buy a six pack of tomatoes for a buck now you are lucky to get one for that price. I plant 24 tomato plants and probably 20 to 30 other plants say squash, peppers and such. I am thinking a computer fan ran off a vexilar battery on a timer to give it say 4 hours of wind a day. The only windows I have are north facing so I may have to do the florescent lights. Any idea how much electricity two bulbs would eat up. My guess is about 25 cents a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted March 1, 2008 Share Posted March 1, 2008 How often are you supposed to water pepper seeds. Like I said, I am going into this really clueless on the whole process. I'm doing the learn as you go approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishermatt Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Hoggs222, it's important to keep your seed tray warm between the time you plant the seeds and the time they germinate. They should be at least 70-80 degrees until they sprout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Cool. I've got them on a table in front of a window, where there is a heat duct right below them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
311Hemi Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I built a little growing shelf system for my wife a few years ago. It consisted of one of the metal shelve systems you can buy and then I surrounded it completely by 1" white styrofoam with a door that can open. I purchased 3 sets of fluorescent lights and cut holes in the styrofoam so the lights would fit (they were wider than the shelve). I then hung the lights by chains so they could be raised as the plants grew, and had the whole system on a timer. It worked well for our garden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bakken Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I started mine with the 72-cell tray and grow lights about a month ago and they've been growing like crazy. I've noticed in the last week or so though, that they've started looking wilted and the leaves are developing a pale yellow hue to them. Any ideas on what would cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 Either the clear lid is keeping too much moisture in or your watering too much,I'd remove the lid.My seed just sprouted in the last 3 days,Tomatos & herbs I uncover them from when they get sunlight till dark then cover for overnight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishermatt Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 Steve, It does sound kind of like over watering. It doesn't hurt to let the soil dry out somewhat between waterings. Sometimes you gotta beat up on those little plants to make them stronger! Another thought: Was the soil mix you used something that already has some nutrients in it? If not, the next time you water them you could use a weak mixture of Miracle grow to give them some fertilizer. Like 1/4 spoon to a gallon of water instead of a whole spoonful like the label says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggs222 Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 Well, some of the peppers and herbs have started to sprout and the tomatoes went from nothing to around an inch in about a day or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I dont fertilize till there outside in the garden,I may use a root developer in the trays but nutirents in planters will slow root growth,then the plants will be slow outside while they develop roots,also less water makes those roots search it out,better root development Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishermatt Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I agree about letting them get a little dried out, but not til they get a bit bigger. Like sparcebag said, drying out promotes root growth. Once the plants get bigger and you're checking the moisture level of the soil you'll start to notice them wilting a bit when they get dried out, then you'll know it's time for water. They might also wilt or turn yellow if they are kept soggy for too long. The Tray will be pretty heavy right after you add water, and will get lighter and ligher as it dries out. Sorry if I'm Mastering the Obvious there. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bakken Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Well, what the heck. I gotta be doing something wrong. Did the 72 cell thing, pulled the cover off about a week after the plants sprouted, have 2 pairs of 4' daylight bulbs about 3 inches off the plants running 12 hours a day, and I've been trying to let them dry out between adding water to the bottom of the tray. They sprouted and grew like weeds for the first few weeks, but now it's like they're dormant, haven't grown at all in about a month and the leaves are pale yellow to white. Anybody been there and figured out the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparcebag Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Quit watering,my plants are the same not yellow tho,their developing roots.I just watered my tomatos for the first time since planting,they were visibly wilting which also strengthens them,I have leaves forming not the seed leaf,when the second set of leaves are on then I'll divide and transplant to larger 3x3 container thats when they'll take off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eurolarva Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 If you go to walmart or any store that sells lots of plants you can find a water tester. You poke the lead into the pot and it will let you know how wet or dry your plant is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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