Crankin Rod

[Saint Paul Dan]

I am putting together a crankbait set-up for next year. I already know what I want for a reel and thought I knew what I wanted for a rod but now I'm second guessing myself. I was planning on getting a shimano compre 7' medium crankbait rod. I decided on the medium but I was thinking about how tuff it can be to reel in a deep diver like a DT 16. Also it can be difficult to rip free from weeds with the medium that I currently use. I mostly throw smaller crankbaits but now I'm thinking about the 7' medium heavy because I can only afford one rod/reel combo. What would you guys reccomend? Medium or Medium-Heavy?

Also what exactly is TC4 cunstruction versus IM9 graphite construction? I'm assuming that it is some type of glass/graphite composite but I'm not quitw sure. Any Ideas?

Thanks ahead of time for the advice,

Dan

[Deitz Dittrich]

SPDI am on the Shimano pro staff... So I am a bit biased... I feel the Shimano crankbait rods are the best cranking rods in the industry. The Compre rod is awesome. The only real difference between the Compre and Crucial is the guides.

TC4 construction... Its a very thin, lightweight graphite blank... Then a fiberglass blank is wrapped around the graphite... Then a 3rd very thin graphite blank is wound around the glass... What you end up with is a Lighter rod that acts like a fiberglass rod, yet has much of the sensitivity of a graphite rod.

If I were to suggest, I would go with MH...A MH TC4 rod will be very similar to a M power in graphite. Keep in mind, the TC4 is a much slower taper and action than an IM9, Which is exactly what you want/need in a crankbait rod.

[Saint Paul Dan]

10-4 on that last point about the slower action. I have a glass rod but never end up using it because it feels so much heavier then a graphite. I said that I was looking at a compre crankin rod but I said that by mistake. I have actually been looking at the crucial and am just used to saying compre. Thank you very much for the information. That was exactly the type of advice I was looking for. Just didn't expect to hear back from a Shimano rep. Does shimano make a crankin rod in the compre? I didn't see a crankin series within the compre line-up, but it would be nice to save $30.

Thanks again,

Dan

[Deitz Dittrich]

SPD- Glad to help. I own 5 of the Crucial crankbait rods... I also use them for spinnerbiat fishing and topwaters... I just looked on their web page, and the Crucial lists that it uses IM9 and New Concept Fuji Alconite guides. The Compre uses IM8 in its construction and has New Concept Fuji Hardloy guides. I dont think that the IM9-IM8 is going to play as big a difference in a crankbait rod. The Alconite guides I think will be be lighter, by how much I am not sure. and I actually think the price diff is more like $40.. .but could be wrong on this.

If you have any more questions that you think I may be able to help with, please feel free to ask. I love talking this kind of stuff.

[Saint Paul Dan]

DD,

I was coming back to write you a post saying that I visited their HSOforum and found out they do make a compre crankin rod. Thanks again. Don't know why I didn't look there before I asked. Now I just need to find a place that sells them. Thanks for the additional information. So you like a slower rod for spinnerbaits? Is that for all spinnerbait applications? I was thinking that could be really advantageous but then there is also the weed factor. I feel like I fish around too much weeds with a spinnerbait to use a crankbait rod. But then again I haven't used it yet. I guess I'm just thinking about the properties of my old st.croix glass rod. That thing has a very light "medium" action and seems heavy as heck compared to my other graphite rods. Anyways thanks again.

Dan

[Deitz Dittrich]

 Quote:

Now I just need to find a place that sells them.

I would give Thorne Brothers a call..I have been there and they usually have a pretty decent collection. I work at some Cabelas special days, and I know they probably have what your looking for as well.

 Quote:

So you like a slower rod for spinnerbaits? Is that for all spinnerbait applications?

This comes down to what works best for you.. What works best for me is a crankbait rod. I use the exact same rod for deep cranking as I dospinnerbaits.. 7'MH Crucial Crankbait rod. Here is why, All lures that you just pretty much reel in, that have their own action built in, fish come up to and suck in. If your line/rod does not have some give, the lure does not hook as deep and you have a much higher chance of that fish getting off. I generally throw 14-17 lb test on my spinnerbait rod. And often times its florocarbon. So a little less stretch, which I make up for in the rod. It works for me, not saying it will work for you.

Again, The TC4 rod will have a slower action than the graphite rod, not quite as slow as a full glass rod, but it will also only be a fraction of the weight as well.

[TurnUpTheFishing]

Im sure the shimano rods are great but I went with a St. Croix Avid cranking rod but they also make them in the premier. The St. Croix cranking rods are graphite blanks for sensitivity but have a moderate action, which is what you will probably want in a good deep cranking rod. I was debating between a MH and H action and went with the heavy. I like that little extra backbone, it helps me rip free of weeds/debri and for throwing deep divers like the poes 400, DT16, dd22s... I like a 7' rod for casting distance but still not to difficult to transport.

I love my avid and but I got a great deal on it. If you like having higher end equipment they are worth a look. If you're looking to go the cheaper route its alright. I think you can find a good cranking rod for less than $50 bucks.

[Fluker]

I haven't used the Shimano rods, but would definitely take DD's word for it. I also use the Avid HM's as well as a Loomis CB847. Both of which I built myself. I really like both of them. Nice action, but strong enough to rip weeds.

As a rod builder, I will offer this advice. The old Hardloy guides did NOT stand the test of time (short time at that). The Alconites are much sturdier. You'll break less (they bend more before breaking) and your inserts will stay in longer. I HATE inserts popping out of guides, enough that I would spend the extra $40 for that alone. Again, this is based on older model Hardloy's, DD mentioned these are new ones, so maybe they are better?

[Central Bassman]

Fluker, could you make me a rod if i got the blank for you!!!

[ikeslayer]

Fluker can't make rods!!! j/k

he does a good job indeed but isn't into any of that FANCY stuff

I personally think everyone should learn how to make their own rods. You get so much more for your bucks. Especially if you are like Fluker and don't like the fancy stuff any monkey can put on guides. Also good to know how to make your own for when stuff breaks especially on trips your services will be appreciated by any buddy who just broke his favorite stick.

ike

[Central Bassman]

LOL Ike i know how to make rods but just don’t have the time or equipment to do it. I learn how to do it when I as in high school. I agree with what you said above.

[Fluker]

CB, shoot me an e-mail. thefluker at gmail dot com

I haven't made many rods for other folks just because I haven't had the time. I might have some time a little later this winter, so we can chat and see what you might be interested in.

I guess I'm an ugly rod making monkey. ) ha ha I think what Ike was meaning to say is I don't make decorative rods. I don't do any design wraps, or accent wraps. I build the rod as "simple" as I can in order to keep as much weight off as I can. I build 95% of my personal rods with a revolver wrap as well.

Anyway, shoot me a note....

Ugly Monkey.... that's it Ike, I ain't taking you fishing no more.

[Saint Paul Dan]

Thanks again DD for the advice. I own a st.croix premiere glass rod but didn't know they made a graphite cranking rod in the premiere series. And I thought I had it all figured out. Now I have more decisions to make. Where did you guys learn to build your own rods?

Dan

[Deitz Dittrich]

I learned at Thorne Brothers... many many moons ago.. I only make ice rods now... too lazy to build a full length rod..

again, glad to be able to help.

[CHM]

You could build a very sweet crankbait rod with a Batson Rainshadow RX7 CB70MH blank (under$50). Use one double foot #10 and then transition to #6 fly guides on the bottom (simple spiral) and you will have a sweet stick that is not available in stores.

Ike, you can cast mine after I win the UMF on secret lake on the opener. ...and put that can of soda down!

Chuck

midwestrodandreel.com in Prior Lake sells these components (I am not affiliated with them in any way)

[ikeslayer]

i have been told that a minneapolis phone book is just the right amount of thread tension you need to wrap a rod. So that is all you need for a tensioner. As far as learning to build rods i learned from a man who is a legend in Rochester Mel Dickie. I think that is where fluker (self nick named the ugly monkey but i will settle for something less offensive as maybe the missing link) learned too.

CHM Makes a pretty rod too and yes them Batsons sure are nice and they don't hurt your pocket book too bad either. o yeah and Chm you are going down with rods to nice to fish with i know you might be afraid to over flex them or something silly. Better watch more KVD.

ike

[Fluker]

SPD - First off, apolgies for leading this post astray. Hopefully you still find value.

I too learned tbe "basics" from Mel Dickie at a community ed class here in Rochester. He basically showed us how to put a handle, guides and epoxy on. Not to mention some decorative stuff like wraps and wood handles. Mel makes some cool rods for the eyes if you're in to that type of thing.

After that, I have several buddies who build, and some that do it as a business. They are a GREAT group of guys all willing to share info. From them and a little practice, I learned all the "advanced" stuff, like split grips, split reel seats, no fore grip, revolver wrap, fuji spacing, etc. I was fortunate enough to have access to St Croic "2nds" when I started building. So for $20, a bad screw up didn't hurt the pocket book too bad. (edited) Like epoxying the guides on and then realized I didn't have the reel seat hood on! DOH!

I'm sure there are some rod building video's out there that you could learn from if a class isn't available to you. There are also rod building message boards out there to help with the "advanced" techniques.

I've never built on a Batson, but heard good things about them before. I was a Shikari guy until ATC bought them out. They were the perfect combination between a St Croix and a Loomis. My buddy has a rod database he has compiled that allows one to compare rods from different manufactures. As you know a Brand X 7' MH can be completely different than a Brand Y 7' MH. Kinda like trying to compare 12 LB line from 2 different companies (dif diameters). The HSOforum is down at the moment, but I'll try to remember to post the link when it's up. With it, you could compare all the MH and H crankbaits rods from each manufacture based on power and action. It's pretty darn cool.

Fluker (a.k.a. Ugly Monkey)

[Saint Paul Dan]

Fluker,

That HSOforum sounds like a pretty cool idea and super useful. Let me know when it can be accessed. Thanks for all the info.

Dan

[DomW]

No doubt the Shimano rod will be a sweet one - I am a huge fan of my Shimano Crucial drop shot rod - but, for anyone reading this thread looking for a cheaper recommendation, I really like my Bass Pro Crankin Stick. They are about 50 bucks, and often on sale for 30-40. Most people who have one agree that it outperforms its price.