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Sled Trouble III


Dahitman44

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Well, I was able to go on a couple of smaller trips after replacing the sensor and the thermostat and a couple of O-rings and seals.

Last weekend I took the kids and the wife for a short ride. Everything was going fine until she got her sled stuck for the third time, this time I had to call a buddy with a tow rope and his truck. smirk.gif

Anyway, on the way back into town I was about two miles out when it started to slow down. I checked the light and the temp light came on again. I was very mad. I drove it the remaining mile or so to the dealer and left it.

It looks like it will be at least a week before he can look at it.

I checked the coolant level and it did not have any in the plastic container. I also saw that some had dripped out of the overflow area.

Anyone have any ideas what I am facing? I am done trying to fix this with a buddy. We tried, but must not have gotten it.

Please read my Sled Trouble II and give me your thoughts. This is getting very frustrating.

thanks

Hit

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It sounds like it got hot again. I would say it probably scored the pistons. The scoring could have started when you overheated the first time, they can ran and run well to a point. Was it knocking when you shut it down?

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In your original post I stated I had similar things happen on my 2002 700 XC. I changed the TPS setting (instructions below), added an auxillary heat exchanger, and changed the coolant bottle. Everything I did was suggested by other people who had the same issues.

This is from a snowmobile site called hardcore sledder. http://web.archive.org/web/20031004210150/http://www.hardcoresledder.com/polaris_tips/index.htm Hopefully the mods leave the link. It is fom an old web archive and has no ads and is just information regarding Dahitman44

problem. If there is a problem please just delete the link and not the entire post.

Throughout last winter I received a great deal of email about the Polaris TPS issue in regard to jetting and overheating. It seems like nearly all 2002s have some degree of "pinging" or "clattering" with the stock TPS setting. And I have even received some reports of meltdowns on XC7&8s with lowered needles and high TPS settings. That is even more alarming considering the mild winter so far. PLEASE check your TPS settings ESPECIALLY if you are modifying the jetting in any way.

The TPS (Throttle-Position-Sensor) is an important part of the XC setup. It effects how lean you can go in the mid-range especially, because it controls how fast the spark advance curve comes in. There have been a good number of reports coming in about part-throttle detonation, (knock), on all of the XC motors, (and even overheating on the XC600). The detonation is aggravated by leaning the mid-range (lowering the needles), and also by installing heavier clutch weights (puts more load on lower rpms). So you need to consider your overall setup before you make big changes in the jetting. Even if you are not changing your jetting I recommend resetting the TPS sensor. Our 2002 XCs run much better after this adjustment.

Does your XC500 or XC600 have a roughness at 5000rpm? Or does your XC700 or XC800 have a "clatter" at 5000 to 6000rpm? Almost all 2002 XCs have these symptoms, and it is because the factory TPS setting is too high. Readjusting the TPS will make your XC run smoother and safer at low speeds.

For overheating problems with 2002 XCs, especially M-10 equipped XC600s and Classics.

The best way to adjust the TPS setting is to use the Polaris TPS Tester #2201519. The wire harness and the regulator are included in the kit. The VOM and the 9V battery are not included. You also will need a "tamper proof" T25 Torx bit to adjust the TPS sensor, (or you can drill out the center of a standard T25 bit)..

Important Recommendation: On all XCs with the TPS sensor, (500, 600, 700 & 800), set your TPS voltage (using the Polaris TPS tester or a homemade substitute) to not more than 4.0 volts at WOT. Some XCs have come from the factory with much higher TPS voltage settings, and these seem to be the ones reporting part-throttle detonation.

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With out reading the last post, I would think head gasket or cracked jug or cly. head....

I feel the big guns should have a look at it. You might be in for a rebuild. I think you just got her hot and have a hair line fracture some where's. It just showed it self a little more over some riding time. Lets hope for a leaking Cly. head gasket and no piston/clyd. wear.

Good luck!!!!

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you can get a leak down tester for around 50 bucks. this checks for ring blow by at high rpms, and finds many more problems than just a compression test, which might also point you to a problem. compression should be around 120 to be in good running condition

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Finally brought it into the dealer and they got it fixed.

for you guys that said it was hard to bleed -- you were soooooooo right.

The service guy said that when you loose all of your coolant like I did it is VERY tough to bleed the lines. We thought they were bled but they were not. He said it is like setting up a sled out of the crate -- NOT fun, I guess.

Well, now that my sled is fixed, most of the snow melted -- figures.

Day late and sled drives me nuts. crazy.gif

Thanks again to everyone -- you guys do a great job helping people with sled issues.

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