Sled Trouble II

[Dahitman44]

Had a post earlier and I overheated my 2003 700 xcsp. I ran out of anti-freeze. I replaced many O-rings and it is not leaking anymore -- it was leaking into the cylinder and it wouldn't start.

Got that fixed.

Well we fixed most everything we could, but the red temp light still comes on and we can't figure it out. We are going to replace the sensor and see if that was it. When it overheated it melted the top of the sensor and it melted where the two top wire clips connect.

Our dealer also asked if the anifreeze was circulating -- how can you tell is it is. Those motors vibrates so much I think it is tough to tell.

I did not damage the piston or scorch anything, I know it is hard to believe I have 113 pound compression in both cylinders as well.

Any thoughts that could help us?

thanks

Hitman.

[ChuckN]

O-rings....in the cylinder heads??

Not enough info on what you did, but I assume you drained a lot of coolant from the cooling system to do these repairs?

I don't know your Polaris model, but usually the thermostat is near the cylinders. The cooling system is probably vapor locked. Find the thermostat, take it out and refill coolant through the port and get most or all of the air out.

If there is no coolant in the cylinder jugs, the thermostat won't open and it will overheat the motor and risk severe damage. If that overheat light comes on, shut it down ASAP.

The sensor may be just fine.

[Macgyver55]

Does the red temp light come on all the time or only after running it a while? If it melted the top of the sensor and it melted where the two top wire clips connect its a good bet that the sensor or the connector is the problem. If not, make sure the system is bled of all air. Many sleds have more than one place to bleed the system so check it carefully.

Does it seem to start and run normally? 113 pounds compression in both cylinders is actually pretty low. If not, this could possibly indicate that rings have lost some of their tension.

[ChuckN]

Good tip, Mac. Forgot about the bleeder...on my AC sleds the bleeder is near the water pump.

[Dahitman44]

Having a hard time bleading the air out of coolant lines -- not sure if it is all out of the anti-freeze line. Not sure if water pump is pushing the coolant -- how can I tell if it is circulating -- it vibrates so much in the plastic bottle -- how can you tell?

Anyone?

Also --

Mac --

The Red light comes on after it has been running for a while. -- Not too long, however.

Also -- the red light will flicker when I "goose" the throttle a little does that mean anything?

Also -- you guys think 113 is low? My buddy said that isn't too bad.

Thanks

Hitman.

[FLaker]

The best way I have found to bleed these is to get the front of the sled 1-2 feet above the rear and run it with-out the pressure cap on. You should be able to see and/or hear the air bubbles come burping thru. I would change that sensor as well.

[Macgyver55]

You beat me to it. I was just going to say the same thing. Raising the front of the sled will help to bleed any air out that may still be in the heat exchangers, but opening the bleeders is still needed.

It is imperative to get all the air out of the system so it will circulate properly. Any air in the pump itself will cause cavitation and it will pump little if any coolant.

The fact that it overheated enough to melt the connector also means it might be a good idea to replace the stat too.

All that heat takes the tension out of springs and it may not operate correctly.

[Shack]

I would say having the same PSI on both cylinders is a plus. I figure factory spec is between 120-130 some where. Its on the low side, but unless your are trying to tune sled, it would not make that much of a difference. It does show a sign of wear or worst, a large drop from before you over heated eng...

I would lean more towards air in system. I know some people do this other ways, but I would warm up, cool down 15-20 minutes, tilt sled to the left (when sitting on seat) with blocks of wood about 6 inches off of ground, crack bleeders,

start back up crack bleeds when running. See if you can push air bubble out. If this does not work, a sensor would be my next option.

Good luck!

[Shack]

Quote:

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good idea to replace the stat too.

All that heat takes the tension out of springs and it may not operate correctly.

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That’s a very good idea.

It took me awhile to write that last post and after I posted, I seen the response. Yes, I would raise from end as well. I have found raising the right front sky on my AC helps with bleeding air out also.

[hanson]

Are the water pumps on the newer Polaris's belt driven?

My old Classic had a tension adjustment for the water pump belt.

[Shack]

I just called my buddy who owns this one.

It does have a belt drive for water pump (with out looking). Now about the tensioner, he could not comment on. I would check belt for wear or glazing. Do you hear a squeal?

I still think it is an air pocket by sending unit., but Hanson does raise a good question.

Also, did over heating cause damage to pump or loosen impeller from shaft????

If air does not puke out, these are questions one might ask.

[Black_Bay]

There's no belt tensioner on those models. Belts do have a bad habit of breaking, but they are easy to swap out. Just unbolt the recoil and it's right there. You do have to take the pipe off though but that's no big deal. I have a 2002 700 and have had quite a few overheating problems with it. If I were you I'd get a temp sensor, coolant bottle (they warp easily and won't seal), and if you keep having issues I'd get an auxillary heat exchanger.

[Dahitman44]

The PSI tested was on the sled when it was cold -- bon;'t know if that makes a difference?

[Dahitman44]

That is not what I like to hear about the 2002. Maybe that is why the guy before me got rid of it?????

I hope this will be the end of my troubles with this sled -- I think it was made on a Monday or a Friday.

[Dahitman44]

Tested the Thermostat and it DID NOT WORK. Put it in very hot water and no luck.

Could this be the cause of all my problems?

Can the thermostat cause my red light to come on when it shouldn't?

thanks

Hitman

[Macgyver55]

Definitely, if you put it in a pan of water and turned on the heat it had better be starting to open by 160 or so depending on what degree stat they use. If its not, it will do the same thing in the sled and overheat it fast!

[Dahitman44]

Mac --

So we put it in 230 degree water and it did nothing -- do you think that is the root of all of this over heating at the light coming on?

thanks

Hit

[Shack]

Ding, ding, ding!

I would have to say yes it is.

If you dropped a t-stat in water around 230 deg., it would not matter if it is a 160, 170 or 190, it would still open.

Buy a new and give it shot.

At eng. with higher R.P.M.'s, it will push t-stat open a little to allow the flickering of light (I would guess).

The does not rule out a total cause of the original over heating concern, because over heating an old t-stat can cause it to fail. I would think this would take care of future over heating issues and probably was the original cause of over heating.

[Macgyver55]

Shack is right, if its not opening in 230 water its definitely bad, no question. Its hard to say if it were the originl cause or the result of another problem. Either way, if everything else looks good, put in a new stat and run it. It should be good to go! If not, report back and we'll see if we can figure it out from there.

[Dahitman44]

Well guys as you guessed I think we have solved the problem.

I think I am in good shape now. I did not have the chance to go on a long ride, but it did not light up That is a good thing.

Thanks to all that helped with this issue. It is nice to have a place to go for some help.

Thanks again.

Hitman

[hanson]

Good to hear!

While out riding, do yourself a favor and stop every now and then to check your heat exchangers. If everything is working properly they should be fairly warm when riding. If they are ice cold, you've still got a problem.

[Dahitman44]

Great -- I will.

thanks

Hit

[NAMASafetyDirector]

I am a little late getting into the conversation here but I'll throw in my two cents. The thermostat should have opened around 140 as that is about the set operating temp on most of the newer Polaris sleds. So with that said I would agree with the others that you prolly had a bad stat. It's still a good idea to follow the others advice on elevating the front of the sled a little to get the air out of the rear coolers. The belt driven water pump is also a common place to start looking for a overheating problem as mentioned before, those models did have an occasional tendancy to wear out a belt. There is no seperate tensioner, the waterpump pivots much like an alternator on a pickup to tension the belt. They do not need to be overtight, just snug enough so the belt does not slip then tighten the bolt! Hope you solved your problem and good luck!

[hanson]

Quote:

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The belt driven water pump is also a common place to start looking for a overheating problem as mentioned before, those models did have an occasional tendancy to wear out a belt. There is no seperate tensioner, the waterpump pivots much like an alternator on a pickup to tension the belt. They do not need to be overtight, just snug enough so the belt does not slip then tighten the bolt!

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Yep... thats what I was referring to. The water pump pivots on one of the attachment bolts which creates the tension on the belt. Too loose and you aren't going to be pumping any coolant.

[Shack]

Sorry for bringing up the "tensioner". I should have been more exact. I did not know how they tensioned the belt, but if there was a tentioner, possibly there was a failure in it.

Good to know! I like this info, even after the case. Helps in the future.

Thanks