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Running lighting wires through poles


mmeyer

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Hey everyone,

I ordered the BestHonLED lights and am trying to figure out how I want to run the wires. I really like the wires inside the poles but I am concerned with what happens when I fold down the house. Do the wires get pinched in there or do they just slide down and out of the way? Do you just run them out the bottom or make another hole to run them in the direction you want them to go?

Thanks in advance.

Mike

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Ya, I was pretty pepped up about running wires threw polls and after I have thought hard about it, it sounds like a real problem. I am still working on it, but it will end up binding and tearing wires.

If someone has done this before, I would like to hear what they have to say.

I thought about wire tying up until second part of conduit and then drilling hole with a little rubber grommet, but this will still bind.

Thus far, I figured drilling a little hole in conduit at upper 90 deg. Angle and running in threw there (or wire tie). The just let wires hang loose/ or Velcro wrap it down shaft to sled.

I will sort this out in the next couple of weeks.

Good question though.

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I can not remember wich exact threat name it was,.. i think it was just under on of the portable sled mods or one of the lighting ones,..but i have seen this same topic disscussed here. i think some of the guys just left some slack or extra at the point where the binding issues where,...just do some diggin in here and you both can find the answers your looking for,....hope this helps

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I have had issues with running the light wires through the poles. For me it seems to bind the poles up a bit and it has not worked to go up and down as smooth with the wires in the poles. I have just used elec tape and taped them loose or there are other type cords that are coiled that will also work great as they stretch for the distance the poles go out when the tarp is up.

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I have run this situation for the last five years.

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I have sat in the shack and wondered what I could do to make it easier.

The poll thing came in to mind a couple of times and I think with the last couple of posts, I am getting idea's.

These lights work great. They work all night on a deepcell.

but I am looking for something that is a little easier to set up and maintane.

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I use a rechargeable with 78 led,s in it.It runs about 20 hours straight on one charge.If I fish 6 to 8 hours a night,its good for a whole weekend!No wires to deal with and its got a magnet to stick on my wheeler so I can see while Im packing up! grin.gif

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I just put my two 48 cm HonLED LEDs in last night. I will try to get a pic later and post. Here is what I did, after sitting in there and trying to figure the best way.

I had 12 ga. home wiring wire, left over from project. It is stiff enough to not droop even with the HK lights zipped to it. So I zipped both lights to the 12ga. (flattened and smooth, with light on wide side) with a 2" gap between them (for the ceiling brace spacing). I ran both light wires the same way, with the one being zipped in under the second light. That left both wires out at the end.

I then soldered the two light wires together with a heavier wire, and shrink wrapped the connection, and then taped it for strength. I ran that entire section of wiring through a 3/8" corregated wire sleeve (like on boat trailers, etc.) and duct taped the sleeve to the 12ga. just for strength at the top.

At the bottom I put clips for a vex sized battery, and duct taped the wire to the sleeve at the bottom, again just for strength so you will never be pulling on wire, but on the sleeve.

for hanging, I just put a curl on both ends of the 12ga. as it was about 4 inches hanging past each end of the LEDS. These just loop over the shack brace, and it is strong enough to leave it there, or easy enough to take it off each time. The gap between the lights allows it to be folded over for smaller storing, and since it just has clips on the end of, we could use it in the duck boat in the fall. I will just let the sleeve with power wire hang down next to the side of the wall, right into the tub where the spare vex battery will sit.

I haven't decided if I will put a swith on it yet, but I might, or just use the clips to add in another section with a switch between the battery and the "sleeve-wire-end-connection".

Not sure if that helps anybody, lots of rambling wink.gif but it is cheap and from what we can tell will work easy and well. Two 48cm LED strips lights it up great in my Otter Cabin.

Can't wait for ice now, but one more duck hunting trip tomorrow smile.gif

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mmeyer -

How long did it take for you to get your lights from BestHonLED? I ordered mine 11/1 and haven't seen them yet. I tracked them on the shippers HSOforum until they left the country on 11/14. I was hoping to get them so I could install the lights on this extended weekend. Already have all my lines tied so just waiting on ice.

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I purchased 2 LED back-up lights that you mount on trucks. Made a cross bar to go across my eskimo QF III and mount the lights to that cross bar, put female and male connectors up by the lights so I can unhook them and if only going to be fishing during daylight hours. Mounted a 12v 4.5 AH trailer battery box to the bench in the back. On the battery box I mounted a 12v RV dimmer swith so I can turn the light s all the way on high to see for tying or turn them way down for fishing grin.gif

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I just ordered mine on Thanksgiving so I'll let everyone know as soon as they come in.\

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. It sounds like inside the tubes is probably not the best way to go.

Mike

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I purchased a sealed back-up LED light for my otter. I did run the wires through the poles after a bunch of work. I used heavy gauge wiring and had to drill out the plastic spacers. I also anchored the wires to the poles near the lights and used waterpoof in-line wire connectors to prevent them from comming loose. When I collapse my house the wires push out the bottom of the poles so it doesn't bunch up or bind. I picked out a rectangular light that wouldn't interfere with the poles, so it would lay flat. It's mounted above my head and provides plenty of light to tie up and see the holes right beneath me. The downside is that the light is concentrated in the center of the house and doesn't project towards the front. That makes it difficult to see the holes next to the door or figure out where your line is snagged on the ice. Afterwards I purchased a round maxima led backup light that has 54 led and mounted it on my support bar. I like the round light much better because it lights up the entire house.

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108-0869_IMG.jpg

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I used some of that elastic stretchy wire and pre stretched it inside the poles, so when i collapse the shack it just goes back to being "unstretched". I'm not concerned about the wire losing memory since in storage the wire is unstretched and I have NEVER heard of the stuff breaking due to use. Works great. Had to cut the connectors off to get it in the poles but putting them back on was no problem.

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I had to do a lot of websearching to find them again. They are called Thinline LED backup/utility lights. I found them on the vehiclelight webstie. You should be able to google them. They run about $70 but that is about the same price as the maxxima led's with the pigtail and grommet and housing. I've use the rope lights previously and I would say they work as well as one ropelight above you. It will run for over 48 hours on a vexilar battery. I would also get some courtesy lights for the lower bar by the ice to see the foward holes better, if you use this setup. On a side note the yellow bar is the factory otter rod holder. They work great, but I haven't modified them to accept beverages yet.

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In the process of doing my Voyageur now....

Hard mounting a Frabill ZeRust box in the sled, will hold a couple 12vs and other stuff. Putting two toggle switches on the top. Nice since the box has a small flip-up cover on the top, prefect place for switches. Running 2 12 bulb LED strip lights on the upper lip of the sled, putting light where I need it, at the holes. Mounting 2 LED surface type lights across the top rear bar. I'll admit, I copied the idea from Cabelas in Rogers.

Going to heat tube shrink the wires, and based off feedback use velcro as my attachments. Plus, it reduces the chance for crimped wiring when taking down. Look at what's used to hold the shell to the frame.....velcro! Wires for the sled mounted LEDs wil run along the lip of the sled, the wires to the uppers will be heat-shrunk and with velcro. Easy to adjust and no drilling, threading, rust issues, and cheap too. One trip to the fabric store and I'm set.

Might wire the battery for the camera to the ZeRust box too, we'll see.

No more lantern, so in my eyes it'll pay for itself in not replacing mantles, globes, and the cost of 2lb propane cans.

Wish me luck,

Chris

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