Settling around Poles

[cw642]

I just put up a new shed this past June. Right after they got done we went ahead and did the infloor heat and concrete. We haven't really gotten any rain to speak of since then and now that we have the area around the posts has settled. You can see right where the 18" footing hole is and they are settled down 6-12". The problem is the company that put it in says that is normal. I think that in a few years this might create a problem with my infloor and lots of cracking. I need some suggestions on how to fix this problem.

Thanks CW

[Shack]

Short of mud jacking I would not know of an easy fix. Does any of your worse bow (hope I spelled correctly) run around or threw the sagging area? I would think a shift or separation should not be large factor in the longevity of the tubing. But extreme movement would obviously cause a large concern. Did you install rebar in the area when you poured slab?

[sparcebag]

Is it a post shed and the post holes settled?? fill with sand and tamp it in.Also if you can see it I take it theres no concrete there?

[cw642]

The infloor tubing runs over the settlements(about 2-4" from the post). Because it is an indoor slab with costant heat we used fiber rather than rod. I can see the settlements from the outside of the building, but the floor is poured inside. Jacking would be rather risky because of the infloor. I know I won't have an immediate problem with it, but a I shouldn't have to replace $10,000 worth of floor just because of crappy craftsmanship. Just looking for an option to fix it now rather than replacing it in 5 yrs.

CW

[cw642]

Just to clear this up it is every post, all 24 of them. I installed around the perimeter 2" of insulation burried 2' from the top of slab. So I am limited on how I can compact it underneath. The fact is if some have settled 8-12" on a 42" deap hole they achieved a whopping %80 compaction rate at best. I would be very skeptical that jacking would solve this as next spring it will probably be down another 1-6". I am also concerned that because of the lack of compaction, the holes are holding several inches of water due to the clay soil type at that location. This may cause movement of the building itself. I really regret not spending a little more and keeping it local.

CW

[Roofer]

Sorry to hear about this. Your last sentence explains alot though. It always comes down to money. Being a Contractor our company sees this often. It's always best to get a reputable company that will be around awhile.

With the clay (this is if the company was being paid decent), it should have been taken out of there and some better soil, if not rock, should have been put there and packed down.

Some pictures would be nice.

[Shack]

Were polls inspected? Was a permit pulled?

Once you said clay, Ufda! The abominable sucking soil! Ya, sorry dude I do not know what to say!

[sparcebag]

Clay or not your down 42 inches to code,as long as your not north of bout pine city to around Alex then its 60 inches.your below supposed frostline,It should have been tamped down while filling the holes,now they have to be tamped now,if you wait you will lose your 42 in. frostline protection for winter,and they could do some damage then!! FILL AND TAMP BEFORE FREEZE!!

[Shack]

I would say the in floor heating is nice and one would not like to loose this feature, but there is always over head or radiant heating. I would be more worried about the slab and poll mounts structural future. I am sorry rebar was not used; it would have sure helped in this case. Not to harp on anyone, but if you have clay soil, rebar is a must.

[minneman]

I have a had a similar issue with my shop slab/pole shed. I have the infloor tubes and needed to mud jack on both ends due to some settling. there is a lazer gun device that i used (Borrowed from a plumbing heating co)that allows you to point the lazer at anything and it'll tell you the temp at the point your shooting at. with the heat on I could easily see by panning the red (Contact Us Please) across the floor slowly and watching the digital readout. I put a mark on the floor where there was more heat and soon i had a layout of the tubing. lucky or not I had no problems with drilling and hitting a line. I did take pictures of the tubing pryer to pouring that helped determine which way tubes were running.

as for your case, its likely that mud jacking wont work for any lifting,the mud would likely come out the sides..?

however it would fill the holes.

[cw642]

When I said keep it local, I meant that the two pole barn companies within 15 miles were only about a grand more, and Roofer these guys are local for you. When I had the site prepared sand was placed on the pad. It was literally within a few feet of each hole. No cost involved to them at all. The reason we didn't feel the need for rebar is because it will never see a freeze. One of our main reasons for the shed was to house our dogs. They are a shorter haired breed, and we have always kept the heat above 50 for them. I am also laid off all winter, so most times it is closer to 65 in my garage. We had all the permits but Wright County only preinspects footings to be sure of good soil. I work in the construction field and a %80 compaction rate on any job I've ever done would be humiliating. It would be different if someone admitted a mistake and told the truth rather than saying its common. I really think it may be time to call in some legal help. The funny thing is that it will cost me the 1,000 I saved.

CW

[Surface Tension]

I'm missing something here. I can't see why your slab would settle just because the posts holes weren't tamped when back filled. Someone set me straight.

[sparcebag]

I take it hes concerned that a small portion of the slab goes over the settled post holes.I'd just fill it and pack,tamp,no worry about slab,its not like its under cut in a large area.But for him to tell.

[Surface Tension]

Its not that big of deal, just backfill and tamp the holes. That'll force the most of the water out. Don't worry about the small area of slab thats bridged around the holes either.

[Bigeye30"]

That's why it's always best to wait a few months for the concrete in my opinion, everyone wants everything slammed together in the quickest amount of time for the cheapest possible price, then we feel cheated when settling or problems occur, I geuss the saying you get what you pay for still holds true, hopefully everything will work out in the end.

[sparcebag]

I have to disagree with waiting! If the work was done correctly very little settleing if any would occure! Maybe the pole building company wasn't told concrete to be poured to inside of posts,or they were only involved in the building and concrete contractor missed it?? I'd guess lack of communcation! that happens often when acting as your own general,and not having experience.

[Roofer]

Quote:

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I have to disagree with waiting! If the work was done correctly very little settleing if any would occure! Maybe the pole building company wasn't told concrete to be poured to inside of posts,or they were only involved in the building and concrete contractor missed it?? I'd guess lack of communcation! that happens often when acting as your own general,and not having experience.

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You could be right, but I thought we couldn't tell anyone they did something wrong on this site.

On my barn, we poured the concrete around the poles and it works much better. Just an FYI for anyone who may be doing this in the future.