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Shotgun Shells


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Just wondering if anyone can help me out. After a 20 year absence, I am taking up hunting again. When I go to look at shotgun shells, I see alot of short base shells, can anyone tell me what the difference is between long base and short base shells? Thanks

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I agree if you are shooting factory rounds, which i am sure you are. My grandfather reloads lots of different shells shotguns, rifles, pistols, for just about every gun he owns. He is known to load hot loads and loads them to the max within the safety limits. so if shooting reloads, ask the person who reloaded them.

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Just to add, low brass work fine on most small game including grouse. I wouldnt use them on pheasant. Another problem I have encountered is the shorts dont always cycle through an auto-loader. Not enough umph. Case in point my Rem 20 1100. Just last season I was forced to buy some low power in a pinch. First time I used them I hung a hull. This had happened before so it was not a suprise. I gave the rest to my buddy with a pump.

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Low and high brass don't mean anything. The brass has no functional purpose other than marketing. A low brass shell from one manufacturer could be hotter than than high brass from another. Sometimes the highbrass shells don't even have more powder, they might just have a heavier payload than average. Say 1 3/8's oz instead of 1 1/4.

When buying shotgun shells look for the velocity and payload. That is what you should be concerned with. Sometimes you'll see a dram equivilant instead of velocity. All that does is equate black powder to smokeless powder. The higher the dram count, the faster the shell.

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Is it possible that the problem with autoloaders is due to added expansion of the plastic in the chamber and not caused by the lower powder charge?

Bob

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