lower unit

[bhs91]

I was changing the gear oil in my lower unit, as I have done for the last 15 years, but this time something new happened. I was using a hand pump that was attached to a bottle of gear oil, pumping away and it came out the vent hole, i put in the vent screw, gave it one more pump and then it started to come out the black vents that are on both sides of the lower unit . As I said, I have never had this happen and now am a little concerned that something busted on the inside. Anyone else have this happen to them? Did I break something, or is there an over flow part for dummies like me. Also, I assume the black vents are water intake vents, should I pull them and clean them out?

Thanks,

BHS

[united jigsticker]

You have the same problem I have, and I believe it is blown seals...

My warranty just was up last fall.

I just discovered my problem this morning.

[bhs91]

What does something like this cost to repair?

BHS

[zachp]

I had to replace my lower unit seals this winter, cost was around $500. It was about half and half labor/parts. If you can do it yourself or have a buddy that'll do it for a case of beer or 6 you'll save yourself a lot of money. I'm not sure it makes a difference but the motor I had was a 2001 80 hp yamaha.

[eurolarva]

Depending on the size and age of the motor a seal kit could be around 40 dollars. If it is a basic seal cost could be as low as 200 dollars however prime season is upon us and it might be tough to find a dealer that will be able to work on it in the next month. If you have ever removed the lower unit to service the water pump I would remove the water pump and see if you can duplicate the problem. If it is the drive shaft seal that has gone bad that is usually an easy seal to replace. Remove drive shaft, pry old seal out with a screw driver and tap new one in with a deep socket and you are done. A seal is probably around 10 bucks. What is the year and make of the motor?

[bhs91]

2004 70hp 2 stroke yamaha.

I am not very mechanically inclined, IE I can change oil and plugs in my boats and cars, but that is about it.

[Surface Tension]

Sounds like you forced gear oil through the shift rod seal or the water pump seal when you continued to pump oil with the vent screw in.

It might be fine or you might have pushed a seal or o-ring out.

Get the seal kit, a manual, and while you have it apart you may as well replace the impeller.

[united jigsticker]

Wow...Mine is a 2003 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha. What a coincidence.

The drive shaft seal is $6, the shift shaft seal is $6 and the prop seal is $4. The drive and shift seals are back to back seals, so you need 2 each. I'll put in a new water pump too while I am in there, $25, and I know I have alot more hours on my engine then the years indicates.

I called 9 places today before finding someone that had the seals in stock.

So I am on my way now to get them. Otherwise, it is 5 days to get from Yamaha.

And like ST said, if you want a dealer to do it for you, expect about a 3 week lead time, or find a small place, like the one in Albertville.

[united jigsticker]

No kit for Yamaha.

A1 in Annandale is the only place I found with the seals in stock.

$63 for all 5 seals, a gasket, and a water pump, plus gear lube.

Shop time would be about 2 hours labor plus parts and tax, so figure $180 for labor, + $65 for parts + shop supplies.

[bhs91]

I am up in Brainerd and have a guy that I have used before and does a great Job. I have had him work on my old Yamaha and he has been reliable and reasonable. I brought it to him today and I will have it by Friday. Also, I am having him change the impeller as well.

Thanks for the info though!

BHS

[bhs91]

New lower unit seals, new impeller, $275.00. My stupidity, so I'll pay for it, but I already have it back and will have it on the water this weekend. Lesson for me, Have someone do it for me next year

BHS

[Sutty]

I don't know what shops charge to change lower unit lube but you did it for a lot of years without a problem and you know not to pump it with the top screw in now so you are not likely to do it again! I am all for having a pro work on your motor but I am not one to pay 80 bucks for an oil change. Thats a lot of Rapalas

[eurolarva]

You probably did yourself a favor. A hand pump puts out maybe 3 lbs of pressure. If that was enough to cave that seal it was going to go anyways. At least this way it happened on land without water getting in there for a whole season. Lube changes are too easy to do without having a pro do it for you. Just make sure you put new gaskets on them drain and vent screws each time.

[Genofish]

I am also in the process of changing the oil seal (the one with the wire spring) on my 2003 90hp yamaha 2 stroke. Fishing line tore up the old one. Do i need to tap the new seal in? or push it as far as it goes Also i had to order from Bee line in St.Cloud, 5 day delivery also. How tight should the locking nut be?

Thanks

[united jigsticker]

That's your prop shaft seal that you're talking about.

You can use a large socket to drive it down.

The lock nut only needs to be snug, and then line up the holes and replace the pin.

Did you already replace the seal? A1 in Annandale usually has them in stock.

[Genofish]

i got one from bee-line had to order it.

should i tap the seal in with a socket? or push in as far as i can with my fingers?

how freely should the prop turn after tightening it up?

[united jigsticker]

The prop should turn as free as free can be, providing your engine is in nuetral.

The seal needs to be driven down to seat properly.