Framing 2X2's

[hovermn]

The last fish house I built was made from 2X3's. This time around, I'd like to rip 2X4's in half. Cheaper and lighter than both 2X3's and 2X2's. Probably have an easier time finding straight 2X4's, too

Anyway, I'm not sure how I should attach the uprights to the top and bottom members. With the 2X3's, I just screwed through the bottom and top members into the end grain of the uprights. Splitting the uprights concerns me a little bit with the smaller size of the 2X2.

Any thoughts? I've put together a couple of ideas. Any of these work best, or are there other ways that might work

better?

Thanks!

[united jigsticker]

You still will want to screw them.

Drill pilots first, and you shouldn't have an issue with splitting. If you really want to get carried away, countersink the holes (unless you're using L-brackets of course) and you can get your screws flush without worry of splits as well.

One word about ripping 2x4's: They won't be very straight once you've ripped them in half.

Best of luck to you on your project.

[Big Chicken]

I used 2x2 framing and also used closed cell spray foam. The foam dries hard and adds lots of strenghth to the structure so using 2x2 is no problem. The foam is an R-7 per inch and pretty expensive but very much worth every dime. If I were to do it again, I would use 2x3 framing and not fill the cavity so full making it less of of job trimming that hard foam to put inner wall material up.

I used method 3.

[hovermn]

I always predrill the bottom and top plates, but didn't have to predrill the uprights with 2X3's. You're saying I should predrill the uprights as well?

Also, as far as ripping 2X4's, I'm well aware of that nastyness. Been there, done that, bought new stock. I will only rip what I can use at that moment. Letting them sit...Not so great! lol Thanks

Any other advice?

[Pleasant]

I use your method number 1 illustration, using a kreg jig and a dab of construction adhesive.

Makes a very strong joint.

LJ

[minnow_03]

When framing a house, it is always done like drawing 3. Drawing one would have more flex.

[McGurk]

I'd use #3 predrilled, with some sort of adhesive. The glue will be stronger (on dust-free surfaces) than the screws in most cases. The glue will also stop the rotation of the 2x2 thereby allowing you to step down to 1 screw per joint, too. The screw acts more like a permanent clamp to set the adhesive. That's what I've done and if I had to dismantle anything built this way, the 2x's typically shredded instead of the joint coming apart clean with the right amount of adhesive.

Also, if you rip the 2x4 right down the center, you will end up with a finished dimension of 1 1/2" x 1 3/4", and you have to orient them all the same. Not a problem, just a heads-up.

[hanson]

I built my house like you are proposing...

2x4's ripped in half for studs and I did drawing #3, predrilling the entire depth of the screw

I think you are on board with ripping the 2x4's, you have to use them almost immediately or they'll start to twist and turn into waterskis on you. I actually had a bunch of really nice 2x4s that had been stockpiled for awhile. They must have dried out enough because I had no problem with them. It was the new ones I bought that gave me issues.

[Surface Tension]

Dado joint, one 3" screw, predrill and glue.

[wayne123]

That looks good to me. I will add this to clarify although I am sure it is obvious to some. Make sure you use the right glue. I would get a good construction adhesive that states it is good for outdoor/wet locations. The pre-drill is needed to ensure the screw pulls the boards together tightly. Pick a drill just big enough so the screw can slide through the first board. I do not think there is a need to pre-drill the upright board.

[united jigsticker]

Pilot both the stud and the plate, use 2 screws, and there is no need for adhesive.

Use the anodized torque end bits.

Now I want to build a house. Geeze thanks guys.

[federline]

My suggestion will not be popular with Overbuilders Anonymous... but it is acceptable, easy, fast, light, and inexpensive.

Use wide crown construction staples and a wide crown air stapler, stapling boards together at the joints, spanning the joint with the staples so each side of the staple goes into each of the boards. Add a couple side-to-side braces here and there.

This will produce a floppy frame, but that's OK. Add sheeting - wood or aluminum, it will stiffen up. Once you build all four sides and attach all the sides to each other with a roof and floor, then add sheeting last (so you can staple both sides twice), and guess what you have?

The equivalent of RV travel trailer construction!

Having disassembled a camper and seen wrecked campers, I am amazed at how strong yet light this method of construction is.

[McGurk]

.....

..(uncomfortable shuffling, chair creaks)...

...

My name is McGurk...

...

(...This wasn't supposed to be hard.)...(you can do this)....

...

and I... amanovrbildr. There. I said it. I.. am.. an.. overbuilder. I use glue 2, 3 times a joint. Predrilling, multiple braces, I've done it all. I wasn't always like this. I used to hand nail stuff together. Worked fine. Then I was introduced to a cordless drill gun. I was anxious, but he said "Go ahead. Everyone's using 'em." I tried it, and was hooked. Cordless, Corded, Pneumatic, I was on a binge and couldn't stop. Then a guy brought some PL200 out, and it all went downhill from there.

...

I need help.