Crab grass.

[SCUMFROG]

When can I put down crab grass killer stuff. And when can I re-seed and fertilize my lawn?

[harvey lee]

Are you re-seeding a lawn in place now or are you seeding a new lawn?

[SCUMFROG]

re-seeding a lawn in place now. I want it to look nice and green ASAP I want to sell the house...

[WaveWacker]

Get area worked up and smooth a.s.a.p. this spring. Apply fertilizer with crab grass herbicide in it (readily available at multiple locations). Spread out grass seed and rake/drag in. It has always worked for me.

[Powerstroke]

You can seed as soon as you want, it won't germinate until conditions are right. I would wait till late April to do the crabgrass treatment, unless of course we have a huge warmup.

If you did a fall winterizer type fertilizing than there is still plenty of nutrients in the soil for early spring.

A good thing to do is get out and rake up the lawn or do a power raking as soon as the ground is dry. This will get more air to the soila nd prevent any kind of snow mold or other fungus problems.

[harvey lee]

I usually apply my crab grass controller with fertlizer toward the end of April. Works great to do both at the same time.

[hotrod1]

most crabgrass herbicides will effect the grass seed you put down so you may want to wait a couple weeks before seeding. i would fertilize early in the spring.

[SCUMFROG]

thanks for the info. My front lawn has a slight slop to it so it drys fast, I am see little green sprouts popping up in parts of the yard.... I'm thinking thats crab grass or some other weed that took over my back a few years agao... still don't know what that was..

[dnice1707]

crabgrass doesnt start to come up untill early june, what you are probably seeing now is creeping charlie, or a annual ryegrass that has a similar leaf structure to crabgrass in it's infant stage. if you want to put down seed, now would be a good time to do it, any broadleaf herbicide will interfear in the growth of the seed so I would wait untill late april/early May to put it down along with the fertilzer. If your new seed has not hardened of by then just be cautious and try to fertilze and post emergent herbicide around the new emerged turf.

[IFallsRon]

I've been hearing about a product called Weed Free Zone but I haven't seen it locally yet.

[Powerstroke]

Crabgrass preventors are a pre-emergent herbicide designed to create a vapor-barrier of chimical in the soil to preven the germinated crabgrass sprouts from reaching the surface. Depending on the conditions of sun and water in your yard the product will last up to 6 weeks in the soil. Crabgrass doesn't germinate until soil temps reach 65*F and that means a couple inches down. Usually the Forsythia is blooming (yellow flowers on larger shrubs) and a few other natural indicators to when the time is right. Its best to wait unless you want to reapply later in the spring to cover the later spring sprouting.

The same way the pre-emergent works on crabgrass it will work on regular grass seeds. I say seed early and it will have a head-start on the crabgrass. Other broadleaf herbicides will also have the same effect on young grass. Try to hold off on full-lawn treatments until your new grass eaches a few inches tall. Until then you can spot treat dandilions and other weeds. Most pre-emergents also work on many broadleaf weed varieties.

[SCUMFROG]

Speaking of those dandelions. My yard is full of them also. What can I put down to kill those and the crab grass? I know it sounds like my yard is a weed bed, and in the back it is.. I've got dogs that run the back yard, so I really didn't care what grow there as long as it was green.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

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Crabgrass preventors are a pre-emergent herbicide designed to create a vapor-barrier of chimical in the soil to preven the germinated crabgrass sprouts from reaching the surface. Depending on the conditions of sun and water in your yard the product will last up to 6 weeks in the soil. Crabgrass doesn't germinate until soil temps reach 65*F and that means a couple inches down. Usually the Forsythia is blooming (yellow flowers on larger shrubs) and a few other natural indicators to when the time is right. Its best to wait unless you want to reapply later in the spring to cover the later spring sprouting.

The same way the pre-emergent works on crabgrass it will work on regular grass seeds. I say seed early and it will have a head-start on the crabgrass. Other broadleaf herbicides will also have the same effect on young grass. Try to hold off on full-lawn treatments until your new grass eaches a few inches tall. Until then you can spot treat dandilions and other weeds. Most pre-emergents also work on many broadleaf weed varieties.

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Powerstroke -

Don't know if it was a typo or not, but the temp for crabgrass germination is a soil temp of 55, not 65 for 3 days in a row. Also, if you're going to take the temperature of your soil, you need to do it early morning, as that's when it's the coolest from the overnight.

OP -

You can go to Home Depot, or if you're near a 'Lesco', they have a pre-emergent called Dimension. A 50 lb bag will cover 12,000 sq ft. It's also a 19-0-6 fertilizer, 30% slow release, so you'll get a fairly quick green up from it.

What's nice about the Dimension product as opposed to others, is that it also has SOME post-emergent control for crabgrass, so even if you're a little late with applying it, you're still going to get control. You cannot wait until July, but if you don't get it down until mid-May, you're doing okay, again, dependant on the weather of course.

Here's a HSOforum that will list soil temperatures in case you don't want to manually do it yourself.

(Note from Admin, edited. Please read forum policy before posting again,Thank You)

You really do need to know what it is that you're trying to control though. Just throwing different products at your grass may do more harm than good.

Dandelions, everyone knows what they are, but other weeds, such as creeping charlie, clover, knotweed, there's different products that'll have a better effectiveness on each.

Yes, you can do it yourself, but personally you might want to call a local company (stay away from Tru-Green) and have them take care of it. You might find it's easier and quicker, and not much more expensive. You'll pay around $4-8 / 1000 sq ft of turf, with a minimum price for something under, say, 20k sq ft.

Here's the label for Dimension, that I'd mentioned earlier.

(Note from Admin, edited. Please read forum policy before posting again,Thank You)

For the spring, it says you're supposed to have (2) mowings before you apply this product. It states that you're not going to be able to reseed for up to 12 weeks after applying.

I'm in the firm belief that all pre-emergent products are going to be this way. It's the nature of the chemicals and how they work.

As for post emergent chemicals, such as a broadleaf herbicide, again, there are many to choose from. However, most are 'watered down' and if you truly want a the quickest, best way to get your lawn in shape... 2 things.

One, you're going to have to wait until mid-May to see some GOOD results, and 2, hire a professional. They're set up to do it much easier.

You can even go to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture's HSOforum and look up license of companies in your area if you so choose.

[Enids Hubby]

lwnmwnman2

IF your supposed to wait until you cut your grass twice before putting down dimmesion won't that be way to late? The soil temp would have reached 55 long before ??? I'm going to check out this product this weekend . This year I want to get my lawn back to perfect shape with zero weeds but I don't know about those big companies . I see them in the neighborhood and they spray and go when they say they inspect and inform after visits . I think useing the right products is half the battle , do you have any others you would recommnd?

Thanks

[harvey lee]

I use Mec Amine D for almost all of my broadleaf control and it works very well. I do believe that you may need a restricted use chemical license for it unless you can get a few ounces from a buddy. Takes only 3 ounces per 4 gallon hand sprayer and you dont want to use to much or you will burn your grass tips.

This is a very, very good broadleaf chemical.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

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lwnmwnman2

IF your supposed to wait until you cut your grass twice before putting down dimmesion won't that be way to late? The soil temp would have reached 55 long before ??? I'm going to check out this product this weekend . This year I want to get my lawn back to perfect shape with zero weeds but I don't know about those big companies . I see them in the neighborhood and they spray and go when they say they inspect and inform after visits . I think useing the right products is half the battle , do you have any others you would recommnd?

Thanks

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I meant the waiting was for the original poster, that once new seed is put down, that you're supposed to wait for 2 mowing cycles before you apply the Dimension over that turf.

Over an established yard, you can apply anytime.

As for other chemicals, truthfully, here's the best advice I can give you, without giving away ALL the trade secrets.

Be willing to spend some money, if you've got a brother in law or two to go in with you, you'll be much better off.

Find a local Lesco. Don't do it in the spring, because the people working are going to have a hard time sitting down and talking with you about a program. This in itself is not going to cost you any money.

However, when you buy the right chemical, just as myself or other professional applicator uses, you're going to be paying over $150 / gallon. Yes, it's severe sticker shock.

I just paid over $1000 for 5 gallons of my liquid crabgrass preventer I'll be using this spring. However, I use .75 oz per 1000 sq ft.

Anyways, the smallest quantities you can buy are a gallon at a time, that's why I said to use the buddy system and get 2-3-4 other guys to go in on it.

Personally, I'd rather see everyone hire a local company, not a national one, because we're licensed, educated, and know exactly what is being put on and have the proper equipment to do it.

It is NOT a thing that some people believe where if 1 oz per 1000 sq ft works, then 3 oz per 1000 sq ft will get my lawn in MUCH better shape, faster.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

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I use Mec Amine D for almost all of my broadleaf control and it works very well. I do believe that you may need a restricted use chemical license for it unless you can get a few ounces from a buddy. Takes only 3 ounces per 4 gallon hand sprayer and you dont want to use to much or you will burn your grass tips.

This is a very, very good broadleaf chemical.

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I use a product called Momentum FX2 for my broadleaf applications. If you really REALLY want it to work well, add in a drop or two of Dawn dish soap. It'll make the chemical spread out on the leaf better, then make it rain-fast quicker. ONLY 1-2 drops though. OR there's actual sticker product you can purchase as well.

[Powerstroke]

The 65*F number was definately a typo on my part. By the time your lawn is 65 I'll be fishing walleyes..LOL

After working for one of those "national companies" (A tree company that does lawns)I can say it is dificult and expensive to do yourself unless you know what you're doing. You need to have access to a quality broadcast spreader for granualer apps and you need to have a backpack spray or handheld sprayer for liquids. A backpack is best if you've got more than 5000 sq/ft.

You can go to a home and garden store and buy a 1 quart bottle of concentrate for a decent price. Its the same chemicals as the brand names, just repackaged and cheaper. Kinda like buy a Glyphosate product that isn't Round-Up brand. Same chem, same ingredient same results. It is true that the big names can work better and faster, but they all work the same. If you avoid rain and watering and apply at the right times you will be fine.

Some products work on some thigns and not others. Difficult weeds like violets and creeping charlie need special products. Crabgrass is easily prevented but is difficult and expensive to treat once its grown.

I'm all about the homeowner doing his own work to save money. It takes some know how. If you over apply you will do more harm than good. More is never better with chems and fert. If you don't know what you're doing and don't want to try hard enough to learn it you should hire someone. It will cost more, but it requires no effort on your part and you can express concerns to the pro to get the results you want. I do agree with checking licensing and insurances on anyone you intend to hire. There are too many "splash and dash" companies out there that cheat and damage their customers.

FYI the label for Mec Amine D says to use 1-1.5oz per 3-5gal handheld sprayer. It is also very corrosive to eyes and has a 3 out of 4 rating for health hazard. People sharing commercial pesticides are breaking the law.

Sharing a bottle of Momentum is not illegal as it is available to anyone.

[LwnmwnMan2]

One other thing of note before you go to Wal-Mart, Home Depot, big box stores to buy your chemicals.

On the front of the label, usually about 3/4 of the way down on the left side, there'll be a listing of active ingredient and inert ingredients and then the total of 100%.

As long as you're comparing chemical names(Glyphosate = Round Up) you want the highest active ingredient you can purchase.

As for buying the product from one big box store to the next, yes, they're pretty much the same % of active ingredient.

If you go some place such as Lesco, you'll realize that it's not NEARLY as watered down, hence paying $150 / gallon.

Basically, the stuff you can buy at a big box, or your local garden center, honestly, is made so if a homeowner COMPLETELY over applies, then damage will occur, whereas if a commercial applicator slightly over applies, you'll see damage.

Companies realize that a majority of homeowners do not read labels, and as such, make a product to minimize risk.

The last thing I'll mention, is it's the same thing with your yard as it is with your car, boat, computer, etc.

Preventive medicine is the best medicine. It's much much cheaper and easier to keep the weeds out and grass in, than to attack the situation after it's been neglected for a year or two, especially if you're in a time crunch.

Once you kill the weeds, especially mature ones that have destroyed the grass around them, you'll have empty spots in your yard. You need to fill these in with turf as soon as possible, since any open ground is perfect for more weeds.

[Powerstroke]

I totally agree with lwnmwnman. If you don't want to do it the right way you're better of paying a pro.

Now to go back to hand raking my 20K sq/ft