"Winterizing" Snowmobiles

[Diago]

Hi All,

I have two Polaris two stroke snowmobiles I should protect for next winter. Any sugestions on how to "winterize" them?

Thanks for the help!

Jim

[icecold]

Its a pretty simple procedure ,get yourself a good brand of fuel stabilizer add according to how many gallens of gas in tank, ussally add a couple ounces more than instructions on bottle say, Then run machine about 3-5 minutes to get into carbs, Then pick up a can of fogging oil from any marine dealer or sled dealer, slide airbox back from carbs start up sled and at fast idle spray oil into carb or carbs until it really starts to smoke then shut off and your engine is protected until next winter. loosen track if u want and your done. fogging down engine is your best protection against rust, just putting oil down sparkplug holes does nothing other than wet your piston tops

[loosegoose]

I have just done Stabil in the past and it has worked very well. Even with this route the carbs still need to be cleaned on a occasion. I had a mechanic tell me to add 2 cycle oil in the gas along with the stabilizer. Because on oil injected sleds the oil is not introduced into the system until after the carbs so there is straight gas running through the carbs. This is one reason there is needle sticking problems in carbs. I would think this would be better than fogging the carbs since the fogging just goes through the intake system and not the fuel system. Does anyone have any idea how much 2 cycle oil should be added per gallon of gas in the tank?

[HarryG]

Where do you store it? Inside or out? I always put some moth balls or dryer sheets in my sled. A dryer sheet is good for the helmet as well. I used to keep them outside and a mouse always got into it. I now take off my foam pre filter and keep it in a ziplock with my helmet and gloves. I am lucky to have a place to put them inside but I don't take chances. Also, if you do store it outside, you may want to cover your cover with a poly sheet. They cost about $20 at most and the cover for your sled is quite a bit more. I am glad to see this post because there is always something I forget or a new way to do something in a better way.

[mudweiser]

Here is a very in dept list.

* For maintenance schedules and procedures, refer to the specific owner's manual.

* Know your make and model's specific needs as not all procedures are the same.

* The author reserves all rights expressed or implied, this information is public domain and is strictly for reference use only. Author cannot be held liable for any errors or omissions. Any injury, damage or loss resulting from the use or misuse of this information and any claim to thereof relies solely with user. It is recommended that anyone attempting anything covered herein should seek professional assistance. Condition codes:

NA = Not Applicable

OK = Completed

NR = Needs Repair

INC = Incomplete

Initialed = owner declined at write-up

Spring Condition

q Inspect engine, carbs/throttle bodies, exhaust, muffler, wiring, cables, hoses for leaks, wear, loose or shifted parts

q Inspect clutch, belt, brake & cowl parts for damage, wear, looseness misalignment and repair as needed

q Inspect chain case, adjust as needed, repair as needed (leaks, wear, etc)

q Inspect suspension arms, linkages, springs, shocks, track, heat exchangers for damage, wear, leaks, corrosion

q Inspect track slides, ski carbides, repair, replace as needed (or note condition for repair later on)

q Inspect driver controls, instrumentation, air intake, cowl, hood, belly pan, seat and bumper for damage, loose parts

q Inspect front end alignment, adjust as needed (or note for repair later on)

q Inspect rewind start rope for wear, repair as needed (Don't overlook this as it’s the backup starter for electric start. )

q Check all fasteners for proper torque (no loose bolts/nuts on suspension, engine, etc...); use thread locker as needed

q Remove all foreign debris from under hood 'collection areas', suspension, exhaust & track areas

q Remove all accessory bags, clean & store separately, clean out trunk and other storage areas.

q Wash & Wax sled - exterior & interior

q Perform "as needed list", make repairs or plans for follow up repairs in fall (make list and/or flag parts for service)

q Check engine coolant level, adjust as needed; if over 3 years old flush system, follow service manual for bleeding air

q Fill Gas tank & Add fuel stabilizer and Dry gas (isobutyl alcohol) - run engine until treated fuel reaches carbs

q Fog engine internals, run engine spraying through carbs/TBs, remove plugs and spray in cylinders.

q Squirt oil in cylinders with plugs removed, pull over by hand several times, reinstall plugs or desiccant substitutes

q Clean exhaust valves, spray fog oil in engine cylinder passages

q Drain carbs of fuel to prevent deposits from fuel evaporation

q Change chain case oil, inspect gears, chain & tensioner for wear, replace as needed

q Change Brake fluid as needed (Every other year if dot 3 and trail use only; every year for Dot 4 and/or racing use)

q Unhook battery, remove, trickle charge and store on wood surface in cool area

q Mark direction and remove drive belt, store separately from sled (store on side un-tensioned -'as it lays')

q Remove spare belt and store separately as drive belt so they are round, not out of shape / tensioned

q Clean clutches, lube as applicable - TRA clutches use Teflon bushings - using any petroleum product will cause harm

q Remove secondary clutch and lube shaft with anti seize, reinstall and torque bolt

q Cover clutch belt areas to prevent corrosion (tape cardboard around outside to 'seal' belt areas)

q Spray all under hood and suspension parts with fogging oil to prevent rust/corrosion, DO NOT get on clutches!

q Lube brake rotor hub at shaft with anti seize (do not get on rotor or pad surfaces), wiggle rotor to worked in

q Grease all zerk fittings: suspension, steering, drive axle/speedo bearing, etc...

q Oil all pivot points that are not greased: steering pivots, posts, suspension arm bushings, torsion springs etc...

q Spray metal track clips with rust preventative or penetrating oil to prevent rust

q Coat shock piston shafts with a light oil or petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion, rust and pitting

q Loosen track to reduce tension and stretching (record how many turns so you can restore tension in fall)

q Adjust spring preloads to lowest settings to reduce sag tendencies (record initial setting for fall restoration)

q Clean air filters on cowl and air box, cover cowl filter(s) with rags to prevent dirt/dust intrusion

q Remove handle bar pad and retorque mounting bolts

q Touch up any paint chipping or rust of parts as deemed appropriate, hood/belly pan, suspension/springs not oil coated

q Touch up paint exhaust pipe & muffler with hi-temp, alternative is to use fogging/ penetrating oil, to prevent rust

q Add fabric sheets or moth balls to trunk and under hood areas to deter critters and absorb moisture

q Plug exhaust holes and / or other opening in belly / hood to prevent critter homemaking

q Store with suspensions extended (lift track/skis off ground to prevent rot & sag) support by belly pan / running boards

q Cover sled with canvas or other breathable cover to prevent dust and moisture accumulation (not plastic type)

q Store sled out of direct sunlight, away from active areas and heat sources

q Clean and repair personal gear (Helmet, boots, gloves, bibs, coat, etc...)

[knoppers]

Diago

do you mean summerize

good advice above. I always greese all the zerks, pump as much of the gas out of the tank as possible. I use a boat gas line with the pump ball. treat the remaninder of the gas with a stabilizer, and run it through the motor till you know its were you want it. then fog the cylinders. I pull the plugs off and spray plenty of fogger in the cylinders and pull the engine over a few times to work it in. then mask off all ports, so mice don't get in, like exhuast.

and don't forget to take it to the car wash before all this, to wash off all the road salt the has accumlated over the winter.

[MikeYager - Suzuki]

As far as motor I stabilize the fuel then run it long enough to get stabilizer gas through line. I then close gas valve and run the carbs dry. I fog through carbs by pulling rope then do the plug holes. BTW I use Seafoam.