FishHouse door: Inside trim?

[Kylersk]

I purchased a door from fishhouse supply. The aluminum frame is about flush with the inside 2x2 stud. Now, add the rough cut out for the paneling and I have just over a 1/4" depth difference. Last night I layed a piece of casing over the paneling and saw the big gap (between casing back, and door frame). So, I'm looking for ideas on how to trim this out.

Thanks in advance.

[iffwalleyes]

I think this would work for you with what you are describing. I use a datto head of a table saw to do this kind of work. It makes for a nice clean finish when it is all done. If you don't have this type of set up any cabinate shop will be able to help you out. Also I used some stuff from home depot it is a top trim cap for waynes coat. I put in my house it isn't as wide as casing probably only 1" wided but it has a rabbet precut and looks really nice. Hopefully this help. By the looks of things you probably will spend more time in your fishhouse than your regular house this year.

[love to hunt]

Perfect, you nailed it.

[minneman]

If your using regular casing, the rabbit cut wont work, the trim is too thin. if the gap is a 1/4" and nothing more, get some 1/4" latice (sp) and rip it to <3/4" and add it to the door jam under the edge of the trim and pin nail threw both. if your using a 1x for trim, the rabbit idea will work, and can be done without a dado blade, just have to run it threw the saw twice. once vert. once horiz.

[stmichael]

minneman, The frame is made of aluminum, would klyersk be better off using flat self tappers, or flat self drilling screws, painted to match wall covering? I understand what you are explaining I wanted to be sure that you know the frame is made out of aluminum.

[Kylersk]

My thought was to use shelf edging material (1/4"x3/4") and glue that to the aluminum frame with some good construction adhesive (gorilla glue maybe?). I'm not sure how well it would hold though. I'd then nail the casing to the paneling/studs.

[minneman]

Missed the part about alluminum, I guess if it were mine, id probly use a 1x trim and rabbit out the back and use screws to attach, stronger than glue, and eliminating the 1/4" filler.

[Kylersk]

Here is an older pic of what I have to work with (minus the paneling installed).

[love to hunt]

Post several pics of what you have now. I guess I am not sure where you problem lies.

[Kylersk]

I can when I get home.

The problem is, the paneling is 1/4" thick and is 'rough cut' to the framing opening. The aluminum frame of the door sits almost flush with the face of the 2x2 framing. So, when I put a piece of casing flat against the paneling, and over the aluminum frame, there is a 1/4" gap between the aluminum frame and the back side of the casing (because of the 1/4" inch paneling).

[iffwalleyes]

Another thing you could do is get some edge cap for paneling and just put it around the edge of the paneling and not worry about completly covering the aluminum. But I gather that you want to cover that aluminum up.

[Kylersk]

iffwalleyes, that's what I'm leaning towards doing right now. Last night I played around with edgecap, casing, and what not trying to figure out what looks best. I'll go at it again tonight and probably settle for the edgecap.

[CraigM]

I would use the 1x that is routered out to overlap to the metal door. Nail to the studs, then after putting finish on the trim, silicon caulk around the aluminum.

[deepportage01]

This is the only place on earth ware you can have a fish house trim thread,it's nice to get down to the nuts and bolts of things Good job guys!

[love to hunt]

I think I understand but pictures will certainly help.

I would do 1 of 2 things:

1) Custom cut your trim on a table saw. If your trim is solid wood you can rabbit cot it whith a dato blade to make a lip like iffwalleyes sugested earlier

2) Make a 1/4" filler strip to fit between the door and the trim. Glue that to the trim not the door casing.

[Kylersk]

Everything you didnt wanna know about fish house trim and more!

Anyways, here are the pics. I'd like to try and stay away from custom cutting rabbit cuts or whatever, since I dont have the equipment for that.

Here is with the casing and showing the gap.

this is with wainscot cap

and I think this is the best option, but not sure if the wood would rot with the aluminum frosting and what not? Or how I should attach it.

[The_Duckslayer]

How about cutting the panneling so that it butts up to the trim rather than lay underneeth of it? Just a thought././Jimbo

[love to hunt]

I like the 3rd one the best. Since your heater is vented you frost/rot concerns should be minimal.

If it was mine #3 would be my choice.

[love to hunt]

I have a dato blade I could let you have. It is old but would sill cut what you need. If you have a table saw you would be good to go.

I could hand it over on the 23rd at the mod gathering.

[Kylersk]

Thanks for the offer L2H, but I have no table saw. I think I'll try option #3, with double glue. Glue it to the aluminum frame first, then when I add the casing, add glue to that as well. I guess I'll see how it holds up..

[draled]

I hate to put anoter twist on it, but.... I'd look into some sort of weather stripping, shove it into the crack and it might look nice