Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Using sod for dog stains?


hoggs222

Recommended Posts

The sod won't die just because you cut it if that's what you mean... The problem with sod though, is I don't think you ever have as good of grass as seeded grass and it won't blend in with the rest of your existing grass.

My folks sodded an area around their house and then seeded the remainder of the acreage's lawn area. They wanted instant grass by the house to keep it cleaner. That's 11 years ago now and I can still show you the dividing line today as plain as I could have 10 years ago...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a couple of areas that I would like to use sod, just because they are high traffic (end of the stairs off of the deck). There is no way I could grow seed there with 2 dogs.

What does sod usually cost for a roll or 2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the future there is a product out there called GuardDog. Actually just been released to the public and is being sold at Bachmans I think. Its a little spendy but works wonders. Made by a place called TerraMax based here in the cities. I get it for free cause one of my buddies run production there, but I've been using it since it was in the developmental stages and its been working wonders to stop dog spots from happening. Totally cleared up my yard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of greenhouses sell sod in squares, say 2 feet by 2 feet as an example, for just such needs as yours. I haven't bought sod like that for awhile, but it's usually not expensive. I bought mine for under $5 per square, but that was out in N.D. several years ago.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sod will do just fine, especially if you take the prep measures you found here. The only things I'm worried about is if you think that seed won't take in a high traffic area, I doubt sod will do any better.

If at all possible try to use an alternate entry for a couple weeks till the sod take hold. Otherwise you're just throwing money away and at least grass seed is cheaper and you can keep reapplying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point. When the dogs get to the bottom of the stairs, it's like a burn out spot for them to start running! The area that needs it in high traffic is about 2x2. I could rig up some kind of wire fence (They'll probably knock it down a few times by running into it, but they'll get the picture). With newly laid sod, how often should you water it? Heavy watering once a day?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go to Hoffman Bros on hwy 65 and 22 just bought a pallet that's 40 rolls got a deal because my buddys got a lawn service but with out his deal I think it was only 185 a roll before you lay the new sod till the area a little first then you need to water daily for a couple weeks hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the spot is at the bottom of your deck stairs you should put a small concrete pad say 2 x 2 of 3 x 3 and put sod aroud the edges if you still have bald spots, it would also make the bottom of the stairs look a little nicer and no big bald spot... just my 2 cents worth....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.