Weak Transom

[stmichael]

I was making a modification to my transom saver and I noticed that when putting the weight of the motor on the transom saver that my transom flexes. If I adjust the tilt/trim all the way down it puts more pressure on the saver and it flexed a lot more. Is there some way to help out the transom without taking everything off, or, should I not worry about it? When I bought the boat, there was no transom saver on it, I asked if there was one, he said that the original owner (the guy he bought it from) told him to transport the boat with the motor in the tilted up position resting on the motor lock. I am sure this has not been easy on the transom. Would this have been a normal way to transport the boat? I thought about not buying the boat, but, my lack of self discipline guided me astray. Other than this it has been a great boat for the last 3 years (since I bought it).

Any ideas?

It is a 1982 Slyvan 16 ft. 75 h.p.

[Valv]

Well I hate to say it but....you need to have it fixed.

A 75hp can be very dangerous if it breaks.

There's no way out you need to replace alkl the wood inside the transom.

Check with Steve Bakken here on FM they are specialized with this work, but I have to warn you you will not like the 2 options (fix it or sell boat for parts).

This is the reason I always suggest to purchase a transom saver, it's a $ 50.00 piece of equipment that will save you thousands....

[stmichael]

Thanks Valv,

I had a gut feeling that this was going to be the suggestion. When I bought the boat, the first stop I made was Fleet Farm to pick one up.

I have no choice but to fix it, I put too much money into it to let it go...gutted it out 2 winters ago. I hope that it will last this season.

[stmichael]

How could a person get in touch with Steve Bakken?

I hate to wait, and, hope that he surfs the FM site.

In the meantime I will try to look him up in previous posts.

[Ralph Wiggum]

http://www.bakkensboatshop.com/

[stmichael]

Thank you Ralph

[Guest]

I replace the wood on my transom every few years... wood is much cheaper than aluminum repairs.

I am replacing the wood on my transom tomorrow. Once it starts flexing, it does not take long to fail or cause some damage... I was on the water once and had the wood completely fail(cracked completely).. I hit the throttle and my lower unit hit the bottom of the transom. I putted for miles at idle speed to get to the access.

Never again.

[Scoot]

stmichael,

Just because I'm curious, can you let us know roughly what it costs to fix?

[Ralph Wiggum]

That Guy, we'll have to test out that new transom next week

[stmichael]

I will let you know, I will get started on it this weekend. I hope my little bro is not using his cherry picker at the moment. I am assuming that this will be the easiest way to move the motor. I was thinking of waiting to do until after the memorial fishing trip, however, I would definetly hate losing the motor, (not to mention probably risking my life and that of a buddy) I have not looked at it but what would be the best replacement of that wood? I am assuming that it is going to be a 2x12. Another question I have is, on the back of my boat, there is a decking that sort of hides/protects the gas can/battery, would I be compromising the structure of the boat by making it a wee bit smaller? I Have to take it off so I can get at the wood. I realize that some of it has to be there otherwise the water will come right in the boat.

Mike

[Guest]

Replace it with exactly what you take out of there. Your rear deck should come off with a few screws.. hard to say what you are going to have to take apart underneath.

If its solid wood(like a 2x12).. I have had my best luck with redwood which really holds up and withstands the weather really well. Be sure to treat it with some type of quality water sealer. I have relaced wood in transoms that were layers of plywood also.. 2-3 layers of 3/4" marine grade ply..

Like I said, replace it with exactly what you took out of there. Its a good idea to seal up old screw/bolt holes with Goop or at least high quality silicone if its impossible to use the same holes.. its still wise to seal the holes when you anchor new screws/bolts into them to keep water from getting in and helping to rot out the new wood.

[stmichael]

That Guy,

Thanks for the heads up, I will have a better look tonight.

I will stay away from the marine grade plywood and use regular with a ton of sealer. I thought about green treated but I do not know if I want to use that. I will keep you posted.

[Pat K]

You don't want to use green treated. The ACQ chemicals disolve aluminum. An 11 1/2" LVL beam coated with epoxy resin works well.

Your local building inspector probably has a sample of aluminum siding that was in contact with ACQ treated lumber for 12 months or so. It looks like it was dipped in battery acid. The aluminum that was within 1/4" of the treated lumber has been coroded away.

ACQ has been the standard for 3 years now but nobody seems to read the warnings posted at the lumber yard.

Pat K

[Valv]

What is your motor brand ? If it's a Japanese brand you might have a lifting eye on it, and you can use the cherry picker to lift it, if you have a Mercury you can try to borrow a lifting ring from a dealer or friend, it makes lifting it up a VERY easy job (it's a steel ring that screws into flywheel eye).

I can lend you mine, but I don't think you want to travel this far.

[Guest]

Pat K

Thanks for the heads up on the treated.. I didnt even think about that. The only transoms I have had to replace *plywood* in were glass boats more than 5 years ago... I have no idea what is standard in the newer boats today(I'll find out in 20 years when I can afford a 2005 model).

My personal budget.. I cant afford marine grade, or treated plywood. buy the redwood which has great natural weather repeling characteristics.. then I seal it, and later paint it. Its very water proof, and I dont worry about it not being able to vent at all.. it eventually shows sign of wear before any rot has occured.

[Steve Bakken]

stmichael, you have mail. Sorry I didn't get to it sooner. Ah, to have a job where you can surf the web during the day.....

[stmichael]

Valv,

The motor is Evinrude, 75 hp. You are correct I do not want to drive the distance, I do appreciate the offer. I am going to use an engine hoist, was going to look inside the motor last night, forgot. I remembered on the way in to work. he he he. If I cannot find a couple of spots to attach a chain, would it hurt to choke the motor to lift it? (run a strap between the shaft and mounting plate.) by the looks of it, this should not damage anything, but, just in case, does anyone see any issues by doing it this way?

Using the AC3 was only a thought that passed. I will be looking at different pieces of wood, and thoroughly sealing. A few coats of marine grade spar varnish should do the trick. This brand has served me well, however, if there is another brand out there please feel free to pass the information.

By the looks of it, this job may not be too bad. A bunch of rivets, followed by a smorgasbord of screws, not to mention a varied arrangement of nuts and bolts.

should be starting this afternoon. I will let you know what I find out and what the final outcome was.

[stmichael]

Steve,

SHHHH Keep it on the down low

Just kidding

I mostly do work on the computer these days. I need to keep my mind fresh instead of looking at processes all day. Keep the insanity in check. I have the site on my task bar, one click I can check out what is going on. Jump back and forth as needed. Boss may not like it too much, but, I do get my work done.

[stmichael]

For those of you that are interested in my Transom project:

Took out the old transom wood. It kinda resembled LVL (lamiated vineer lumber), I was amazed that this held as long as it did. It literally fell to pieces, what held together, had the consistency of a sponge. The only thing I could think of that would have it would be a lumber yard, so, I made my way to the closest lumber yard to me. The thickness I needed was 1 1/2", all they had was 1 3/4" (which was too thick to make it work) Yes, I bought a piece thinking it would not work, I had to try it. I brought it back and picked up a 2 x 12.

2" x 12" x 8' PINE $8 (interior)

a quart of marine grade spar varnish $12 (4 coats)

carriage bolts(w/nuts) $3

2' x 2' 1/2" sanded on one side plywood (exterior). $5

1 1/4" Exterior deck screws $6

2 tubes of Silicone caulking $4

For approximately $40, a day and a half and a lot of luck aligning the holes to be drilled, since the wood in the transom is sandwiched between aluminum, it is important to drill the holes so they line up. There is 14 holes that needed to be drilled. I got extremely lucky, only missed one.

I know using pine in this project was probably not the best material to use, however, it is a lot stronger than what was there. It should last a few years.

Evinrude has a lift ring attached to the top of the motor, I used a cherry picker.

[walleyeaddict]

Sounds like a lot of work!!!! I have a buddy running around with a brand new alumacraft and all he does is tilt the motor all the way up...Stupid @#$%^@^#%@%#%%@%#%#%

[stmichael]

A guy really hates to see a person neglect his gear. Just goes to show, what people take for granted. I hope that you will be able to convince him otherwise. Just think a couple years down the line...or longer, you can give him the perverbial "I told you so..."

[countryboy9799]

Curious to know what the thoughts are for using white oak? It is very strong and good with water. It is what they use to make whiskey barrels.

Scott

[Guest]

countryboy.. I really dont know the answer to that question. I know oak has far less flex, and is more prone to split if it is flexed too far.. at the same time I used a piece of cherry wood at one time I had handy and it held up great.. Cherry is very similar to oak.

[countryboy9799]

That Guy,

I am a beginning hobby woodworker and have researched it alot and to my knowledge white oak and cherry are quite different in a lot of aspect's. Cherry doesn't stand up to water very good where as white oak does. Red oak is more popular but for wet application's is not very good.

Oak may be a little prone to splitting so it would be nice to have opinion's on that.