Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

Using dry ice?


jltimm

Question

I'am planning a trip to Canada and was wondering if anyone had some advice for using dry ice to keep some ice for the trip frozen?What is some of ya'alls opinions on using dry ice?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

Do not use an air tight sealed container, I repeat no air tight seals! otherwise your gonna have Kaboooooooomm. otherwise you should be fine. also you only need so much. that stuff is cold, negative 71 Celsius (I think) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

You don't want dry ice exposed to air. Buy it from a manufacturer like Jason's dry ice. On our trips we usually buy 110 lbs and keep one block in a 55 lb chunk and then have them saw the other 55 lbs into 4 slabs. Wrap the dry ice in newspaper and handle it with gloves on. We keep it in sealed coolers and have no issues.

Good luck,

WG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Those are some strange numbers W G. 10 lbs?

Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. -78.5 C or -109.3 F. It doesn't melt, but sublimates, that is goes directly from solid to gas. That is why you don't want it in a sealed container. wrapping it in newspaper is good. Helps insulate it. Don't touch it with your hands, you will get frostbite.

I believe the fog trick when you put it in some water is caused by the cold carbon dioxide gas cooling the air around it to below the dew point, therefore causing cloud formation. grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

One other thought. There have been rare cases of asphyxiation from the gas in tightly closed areas, such as cars. So, keep ventilation in mind with dry ice. It really stinks to wake up dead. shocked.gifgrin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

You "want" dry ice air sealed in a cooler or any container. Duct tape your cooler seams etc. You donot want it exposed to air, nor do you want the gas from the "sublimation" process escaping to like inside your car. Always transport it & use it in a "air tight" environment, and use precaution with ventalation measures in cars, tent, small rooms.

A medium size cooler "45 quart" full of frozen product with a 10 lb slab on top of product and sealed air tight will keep that coolers content frozen rock hard for three days. About .045 a pound from a manufactuer in the cities.. Retail you'll get gouged good, and the farther north you really get it.

It does not "explode" unless you are inentionally making "ice bombs" by depositing it into water bottles, pop bottles etc. and putting the cap back on with liquids inside. Its compressed Carbon Dioxide to -109 in to solid form.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.