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axle to axle length


island guy

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island. the length isn't a big deal unless you are shooting fingers. many people have gone to the shorter bows so they can clear branches and to reduce the weight some, but you need to shoot a release with these. the problem when shooting fingers you have to worry about finger pinch.if you have finger pinch you will be uncomfortable shooting and it will also affect your accuracy.

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It doesn't take anything to get used to. You will really like how light and more manueverable the shorter bows are. Since you are already shooting with a release, it will be just like shooting your old bow, only better grin.gif You will be suprised at how much more power you gain as well as far as kinetic energy.

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Longer axel to axle bows are going to be slightly more forgiving and accurate. Also, a persons draw length does make a large difference. IF you are a taller person and try to shoot a bow with a 31" a to a, then the peep sight gets so far away from your eye that it will make it difficult to see.

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Quote:

Im looking to upgrade from my 20 year old bow. I have a idea what I want but have questions as to axle to axle length. What's best? Any advice or things I need to know?

Thanks!!


Island Guy- Don't get caught up in the FPS in a bow. Look for something that you will be able to consistently group arrows at 20, 30 and 40 yards.

I have an Mathews Outback and like it. The shorter axel to axel is nice for maneuvering in tight spots in the tree.

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I also agree with Captain on the FPS thing. Too many people buy into that logic and then have a heck of a time shooting consistently. The smaller faster bows do not allow for error, or very little error. I have a short axle to axle bow and shoot 250's for speed. That is not terribly fast, but I do have to watch my form if I want to stay consistent. I am also 6'3" with a 29" draw and have no problems with the peep. But I also don't have the smallest axle to axle bow on the market either.

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I would also stay with a bow that has a low reflex in the riser the closer the rest is to the string the less forgiving it will be but this also tend to make it much faster so there is a trade off. If you are a good shot you can use these bows but if you are so so I would stay away and try to get a longer axel to axel. It dose not mater how short or how fast a bow is if you cant hit any thing with it what good is the speed. just my .02

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Island Guy,

you will be hard pressed to find a longer axle to axle bow these days as almost every mfg has gone considerably shorter. However, one thing they have done, especially w/the shorter bows is build brace height into them. The parallel limb design allows for this and is probably more important in forgiveness in a bow, than is axle to axle length. Any abberation made during the shot is going to be amplified down range, and even more so w/a bow w/a short brace height as the arrow is on the string longer.

As for shooting fingers...there are but a handfull of bows out there that are finger bows but I'm sure you'll adjust to using a release very quickly and be please w/the results. Using a release helps distribute the load over the arm, shoulders and back and becomes quite comfortable. Especially when it's cold out, all the muscle groups works in drawing the bow and you don't strain any one group too much.

I'll 2nd any motion above on disregarding the speed. Go plot out the difference in trajectory between the various speeds and in real hunting situations, especially here in the mid-west, and the difference is negligible.

Good luck and enjoy your new purchase!

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