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Old StrikeMaster auger head tune-up advice?


Cheetah

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Can anyone help direct me to an appropriate tune-up kit to match this old StrikeMaster auger head? I'm a handy guy, but have very little small engine experience and am having trouble finding the right parts online. It has been in a shed for quite a few years and will start but has very low power and quits soon after starting.

I picked it up cheap as an emergency spare and don't want to sink much money into it by paying a shop to do the work. I also want to improve on my small engine repair knowledge in the process of repairing this.

It has a Tecumseh TC300 3106 engine.

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I'm well aware of DRock. I bought my main auger head from them, and I am bringing it to them this week to have them do a tune-up on it.

My goal with this older head is to do the work myself to get more hands-on experience instead of just paying other people to do it.

thanks.

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I'm well aware of DRock. I bought my main auger head from them, and I am bringing it to them this week to have them do a tune-up on it.

My goal with this older head is to do the work myself to get more hands-on experience instead of just paying other people to do it.

thanks.

Right, I thought that you were just looking to get parts from them?

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I have a newer Magnum SM that works great but can be a little finky at times starting and running. I also have a pretty old Mag III I keep as a back up and have not used in about 4 years on the ice and have really done nothing to it as far as storing it. But, each year I start it a few times just to make sure she still runs and that old darn thing pops off and starts way better then the new Mag, so I keep it around just in case! wink

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I did not write this, but got it from somebody here a few years ago. This doesn't tell how to clean it, but how to adjust it once clean. I have used it on both a jiffy and the exact engine you have, maybe slight variance but the jist is there. Good luck.

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I have done this many times, both with my own augers and for many friends, It is the same process no matter what brand of two stroke motor you are tuning. As mentioned above, I assume your carb is clean and the passages are free of gunk. You cannot adjust a dirty carb with any reliability.

First, start the auger and run it until it is warmed up. Now, the low speed needle is on the left and the high speed is on the right, away from the motor. Get a piece of paper and pencil and then gently turn the low speed needle in until it seats. Record how many turns you turned it. Repeat with the high speed needle. Turning in the needles may loosen any crud that has collected on the needle seat and it gives you a baseline for the next steps.

Now, turn the low speed needle out 1 ¼ turns, and the high speed needle out ¾ turn and start the motor (Note that this is for the Jiffy/Tecumseh motor only. on other motors reset to the turns that you recorded). If it does not keep running turn up the idle screw until it keeps running. With the motor running turn the low speed needle in until you notice a decrease in RPM or roughness, and then back out about 1/8 turn. Re-adjust the idle speed screw to the RPM you want and low speed is done.

To set high speed you really need to be on the ice at temperature but this will get you close. Hold the throttle wide open and turn the high speed needle clockwise until RPM drops, then back it out until it runs a little rough. Your mixture will be a little rich but out in the cold air it will be very close. For fine tuning repeat this process out on the ice. When you get it right you will hear the motor clear out and run smooth under load while drilling through the ice.

Note that you do not have to re-adjust the low speed needle out on the ice. But you may need to bump up the idle speed a bit in colder weather

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