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walleyeking19

"Breaking in" a new shotgun

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So about a month ago I was in the market to buy a new semi auto shotgun. I had about a $600 budget at the time, so my options were really limited. I eventually narrowed it down to a Stoeger M3000 and a Beretta a300. The Stoeger had a rebate so it was really $400 and the Beretta was a bit out of my range at $675.

I decided to go with the Stoeger after reading the reviews. Well since then, I've probably put 3 boxes of shells through it and I've had it jam up 7 times. It's kind of hard to explain, but the gun is trying to cycle a shell from the tube into the chamber before the one in the chamber is ejected, causing the gun to be inoperable. Unfortunately, 6 of these jams happened when I was in North Dakota so it cost me many ducks.

I called Stoeger and they said I need to fire 200-300 shells through it to break it in and than I shouldn't have any problems. If it keeps jamming after that many rounds than my warranty will cover it. Anyone ever heard of a break in period like that? 200-300 rounds will end up being expensive, and it makes me wish I would've paid the money up front for the Beretta. The people I've seemed to talk to say they've never done that for a gun. Has anyone else ever "broken in" a shotgun so it cycles shells correctly?

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Recently I bought the same exact shotgun. No issues so far.

The manual says to shoot 1 box of "Hunting loads" and not low brass loads through it to break it in. If I were you I'd bring it back to the place you bought it from and tell them it's a jam master. I've heard nothing but good reviews on this gun and your jamming problem is the first bad thing I've heard. You could have just bought a lemon.

One thing I just thought of. This shotgun has the inertia system for ejecting shells, not gas. It really needs your shoulder to work properly. I'm not an expert on shooting form by any stretch but you may be putting the stock too low on your shoulder. Maybe try going out back and popping off a couple shells with the stock higher up on your shoulder and see if that solves the jam issue.

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Maybe try cleaning and lubing it up. They use some thick assembly/rust protecting lube when manufactured. I've heard this stuff gets really nasty if you fire shells through it before cleaning it. That was the biggest complaint about my SX3 that I bought, but I never had a problem.

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Use a thin oil and keep it clean. My SBE 2 I do believe is similar in fashion to yours and I ran heavy duck loads as well as 3.5" (ouch), has roughly 1000 rounds through it with one jam.

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One thing I just thought of. This shotgun has the inertia system for ejecting shells, not gas. It really needs your shoulder to work properly. I'm not an expert on shooting form by any stretch but you may be putting the stock too low on your shoulder. Maybe try going out back and popping off a couple shells with the stock higher up on your shoulder and see if that solves the jam issue.

There only a few reasons the inertia systems will not cycle and this is probably the #1 another is to much oil in the action spring and a week inertia spring itself. being your gun is new it is most likely what Eric mentioned but I have seen a week inertia spring on a almost new gun.

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My sbe 2 runs 2 3/4 target loads great but becomes the "one shot wonder" anytime I try running 3" duck loads through it

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Has anyone else ever "broken in" a shotgun so it cycles shells correctly?

I bought a Remington SP-10 10 gauge when they first they came out. When new it would start to short cycle and jam up after about 7 to 10 rounds and then jam up on the second or third round until I cleaned it. It did that for the first four or five boxes of shells I put through it. Now it runs great, I can put a couple of boxes of any brand shells through it without a hiccup. I now just clean it after early goose season and again in January, So yes, a shotgun can be broken in.

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My sbe 2 runs 2 3/4 target loads great but becomes the "one shot wonder" anytime I try running 3" duck loads through it

Check your inertia spring as I said and check you chamber for pitting and rust up towards the forcing cone they might be the problem

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