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Brakes on my Curado?


Hawg

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If I put just two pins out my centrifugal brake distance is very limited but with no brakes, all the pins in, it casts a mile. Of coarse then the dreaded backlashes happen a little to often, is there something I'm just not seeing or doing wrong? 2 yr old reel

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My revo stx has the same kinda deal. I'm not sure how yours works but I will just put one spring compressed in mine so probably one pin in yours. Or I'll decompress them all so no pins in for you and crank up the magnetic drag.

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I guess I've never read the instructions for my stx. I have a few sx reals that don't have those but when I got my stx's I just played around with them till I found what worked best for me. Maybe its different for the stx than your reel maybe not its just what I like.

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As a general rule of thumb if you are getting backlashes while the lure is in the air it is most often a break adjustment as the line is coming off the spool faster then the lure is moving through the air. If the backlash is occurring at the end of the cast it is most often a tension knob adjustment. Adjustments to both can be necessary when you switch baits. I fish mainly with curados. The easiest way I have found to see if the tension knob is adjusted properly is to keep the rod tip up tighten the tension knob and push the button to release the spool the lure should not drop if it is tightened all the way. I then slowly loosen it until the lure falls smoothly to the ground. If when the lure hits the ground and the spool keeps releasing line the tension knob is too lose in most cases so I keep repeating the process until the lure falls to the ground and no additional line comes off the spool. Once you have ensured the tension is set correctly then I adjust the breaks to get desired distance. In most cases for me I keep 2 breaks on and reduduce backlash problems with the tension knob.

Good Fishing!

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I was reading something where the guy did 3. For me it seems to work a little better than 2. It is every other pin on. I would set the tension like Pherris said and then adjust the pins between 2,4 and 6 accordingly. You may have to make minor adjustments for each different type and weight of bait you use. Wind also can play a factor.

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I was wondering more if there was some type of specific cleaning or maintenance that needed to be done on this reel that others don't need. It's my first Curado, most of my others are Revo's. Seems like a drastic change for one brake setting, maybe it's a Shimanno thing.

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Guys-I've been through the curve, this is a specific post about my Curado. I've used bait casters a lot but this reel just doesn't adjust very well. I'm new to Curados, not bait casters. Specific question looking for a specific answer.

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I was wondering more if there was some type of specific cleaning or maintenance that needed to be done on this reel that others don't need. It's my first Curado, most of my others are Revo's. Seems like a drastic change for one brake setting, maybe it's a Shimanno thing.

Curados are simple and easy to clean. I generally don't have issues with the cast control getting gunked up but if they are dirty, you would want to clean them. Mine rarely get dirty, I would think they only way for them to get dirty quick would be from some sort of contamination event like dropping the reel in sand or over lubing on that end of the reel. Otherwise, it should take quite a while for that part of the reel to need maintenance.

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Guys-I've been through the curve, this is a specific post about my Curado. I've used bait casters a lot but this reel just doesn't adjust very well. I'm new to Curados, not bait casters. Specific question looking for a specific answer.

Go with all in for best casting distance. Go with two out-opposite each other for more spool control. Go with three out-every other pin for even more spool control. Or if you are really struggling, pull them all out. Keep the spool balanced.

The spool tension knob will have far more influence on backlash than the brakes. Pherris' instructions on that are spot on.

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Some of his instructions sound aimed at beginner's but what he says about when you get your backlash is important. If the backlash flares up immediately, that means (to me) pull a brake collar out.

As far as the regular brake goes, I generally run with mine fully loose, maybe tighten in wind.

Also, my setup will change a bit when casting vs pitching.

It's frustrating when switching reel brands sometimes. I bought a Revo a while back and really didn't like their braking system (friction + linear magnetic), couldn't get them to cast like a Curado but some people love them. The only brake system I like better is Daiwa's and I like their reels better when new but not as much for the long haul (baitcasters only, their spinning reels are solid).

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Which Curado model do you have Hawg? I have used every model except for the new 2014 version(Curado I). I have heard it is a little trickier to dial in but once guys figure it out, they love the reel. The B, D, E, and G were all pretty straight forward.

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KNB, exactly the same going from Revos to Shimanno, different, not bad, but different and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

If you have a friend that has a Curado you could try it and possibly determine if there is a specific issue with your reel or just a difference in getting adjusted to the Curado vs. the Revo.

I have 12 curados the majority are the CU 200 ( first generation) and a few of the newer models. There is a difference in what adjustments I have to make to the newer vs older models. I do have them cleaned and serviced every couple years and also spray with reel magic regularly. I have been very satisfied. I did not intend to be so remedial in my initial reply just was not clear on your experience level so I shared basic info.

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It's a G7. The fact of the matter is that it just plain has limited adjustability. If you're coming from another favorite brand it just seems to be the nature of the beast. I'm not bashing it, it's a solid reel and seems to be a quality product for the price but as far as adjustability, it's limited. I use it for frogs which need distance on a stiff heavy fast rod. The best solution for me is to switch it to a different application. I like to keep 4 or 5 rods rigged for tourneys.

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If the G7 won't throw a frog long distance, something is wrong mechanically or it was over stuffed with grease from the factory. I would start by removing the two spool bearings and flushing out the grease by soaking in a good degreaser. Dry them out and add ONE drop of reel oil when you put them back in. This will dramatically help in casting distance!

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