Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Advice for a newb


eyedr

Recommended Posts

I got my bow back in september and I have been shooting a bunch more this spring when the weather permits. I am having some problem with the string hitting my coats or jackets. Im not quite sure what I am doing wrong. I have a forearm guard for to help with my bulkier jackets but i still seem to be brushing my coat with my string. Is my draw length set a little to long? Any advice would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The draw length may have been set too long to start with, or if it's a new bow, the string could be stretching, resulting in too long of a draw length. That may be the cause. It could also be as simple as how you grip the bow, or your needing to SLIGHTLY bend your bow arm.

Bows that have a very short brace height are much more prone to that problem than bows with a longer brace height.

I'd bring it into a reputable archery pro-shop and let them figure out your problem. Most will do this at no cost. Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use to have this issue with heavier clothing, switching to a shorter than suggest draw length and have had better results. Still happens from time to time if I am really bundled up but its pretty rare doesn't affect the shot as much as a before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd bring it into a reputable archery pro-shop and let them figure out your problem.

Given the questions you're asking I think DonBo's response is exactly right. There are a number of likely culprits, the main ones being draw length, locked arm, and grip. However, let someone who knows what he's talking about and can see what your doing help you out. Like Don said, it'll likely not cost you a thing and may help in building a relationship with a guy who knows archery well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Donbo is probably right on. There may be some cost to you at the shop if you need a new cam or draw length module (unless the shop will swap mods). Some shops will charge you if you didn't buy the bow there. It is common for archers to be shooting a bow that is too long in draw length. When I didn't know better, I was shooting a 31 inch DL, when I'm actually more like a 28.5 or 29.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can't have proper form without correct draw length. Echo what others have said, go to a Pro shop and let them help you make sure you are setup properly. Then move onto examining yourself for form faults.

It's not going to hurt to tell them your issue and ask for help correcting it. Most pro shops that I've worked with are MORE than willing to get a guy on the right track. Be up front with your inexperience and your eagerness to get going in the right direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfect, thanks for the responses. The guy I bought it from knows his stuff and I'm sure he will help me out. I just wanted to make sure I tried everything before I went in. This site had been and excellent resource for me already for my new found love of archery. Thanks guys. One more quick question. I started out shooting at 60 lbs, I'm at 65 now and I'm just curious if there is a need for me to shoot over 65 lbs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just curious if there is a need for me to shoot over 65 lbs?

Short answer: Only in Africa.

Longer answer: Trial and error is the only thing that will let you know where you get better or worse by going bigger. Just remember, 200fps or 350fps, a deer at 40 yards still has plenty of time to duck if it reacts to the sound of your bow. Similarly, a 40lb trad bow is a great deer killer. I personally shoot a much lower weight than you do, because that's what I can handle, and if I went bigger my shots would suffer. You don't NEED more, but certain individuals are capable of more than some of us and might benefit from more. I can't predict how your groupings will react to going bigger.

I'd love to hurl heavy arrows from a big 70lb limb setup and crush shoulder blades, but that's not what I'm built for. I'm built for making sure I have a good shot at the boiler room when a deer at 25 yards is quartering away, and that's more than I "need".

65lb compound bows today are pretty dang good for all north american big game.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Turns out it was a form problem. The guy I bought the bow from helped set me straight. I have been shooting like crazy and I'm sure getting excited to get out in the woods. Is it sept? A lot of golf to be played and fish to be caught before then but I am day dreaming about my first full season.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.