Cedar Paneling

[waligators]

Has anybody put 1/4" cedar paneling in a fish house or seen it in one? I contacted the company and they said it will not buckle/warp over changing temperatures. I was thinking about putting this into my house. I have a vented heater so I really don't have to worry about above average condensation in the house. Would a guy want to glue it to the studs and nail, or just nail it with finish nails? I know these types of threads have been beat to death on here, but this product looks pretty nice. Little spendy, but I'm willing to pay for it if it holds up. Click the link below to see what I'm talking about.

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneli...7593-c-8177.htm

[haleysgold]

I didn't put the cedar in but I did the Pine which is the same thing, just different look.

I used an air nailer with brads and nailed it to the studs in the basement.

No issues and it looks nice.

It goes up fast too!

[eagle_3464]

I'd be interested to hear some feedback on this as well. I was thinking of using the same panel on the bottom half with FRP on the top.

[blue_healer_guy]

I would do the cedar

Has anybody put 1/4" cedar paneling in a fish house or seen it in one? I contacted the company and they said it will not buckle/warp over changing temperatures. I was thinking about putting this into my house. I have a vented heater so I really don't have to worry about above average condensation in the house. Would a guy want to glue it to the studs and nail, or just nail it with finish nails? I know these types of threads have been beat to death on here, but this product looks pretty nice. Little spendy, but I'm willing to pay for it if it holds up. Click the link below to see what I'm talking about.

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneli...7593-c-8177.htm

[DemIG]

This is what I used on my fish house it is from Menards as well same thickness and you have the solid deal not plywood. Maybe you would spend a little extra time and money but I think that it's well worth it.

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/paneli...0362-c-8179.htm

[solbes]

Agree on preferring tongue and groove boards vs paneling. We did a bunkhouse up at our lake in knotty pine sealed with water based Poly. The water based poly keeps the wood tone really light and does not yellow over time like oil based poly does. With an air nailer its a weekend project in the spring.

If I ever convince the wife to let me buy a wheelhouse, that's what is going in.

[brian6715]

Don't glue it, that is where you will run into bubbling and warping. Just nail it and that will allow the product to move ever so slightly to relieve stress from expansion/contraction

[randerson]

Cedar paneling is what is used in the Lodge Brand houses they use a small staple when installing

[fishinnut_3446]

I used same stuff as DemIG but in pine maybe would have went cedar but pine was buy one get one free!

How do you post pictures?

[two cups]

When I bought a fish house shell 5 years ago I used the 4'x8' rustic cedar all wood paneling from Menard's for the walls and also used it for all the cabinets. I glued it to the studs and stapled it. Then I stained and finished it. I did it this way for the added strength it gives the house. Kinda like wind bracing on a building, nothing can move and that is what I wanted. After 5 years it is holding up great, would do it this way again. On the ceiling I used pine tongue groove and did not glue it but whiched I had. It is sagging a little in the middle. You can not see it but if you put a square on the wall to the ceiling you can, Thinking all the electric wires and the insulation might be pushing against it. Rick

[Chad Holst]

I just did Tounge and Groove from Lowes. Pine. It was very easy to work with and looks great. Did not glue it, brad nailed everything. This should allow things to adjust due to temp and traveling.

Plus, all the wood you use to build the frames, cabinets etc, match. SO when you stain and or paint, it will all take the colors the same.

I liked the fact that you can use both sides also, so we ran the smooth side" horizontal and the "grooved" side verticle below 35 inches, to give it a wanescoting look on the cheap.

[OutlawBiz]

I just did Tounge and Groove from Lowes. Pine.

Looks great! I sent you a private message about the Lowes T&G product...

[waligators]

Does look nice! I also sent you a PM Chad

[Chad Holst]

Figured i'd answer the questions from the PM here, since i got a few of them:

We decided to give a fake wanescoting look and then we are going to do a narrow 2-3 inch shelf around the house at the spot we flipped to verticle. We made this look by using the smooth side on the horizontal boards, and then the grooved side on the lower verticle boards.

We did this rail at the same hight as the wheel wells. I believe is was 35 inches high.

Keep in mind that when i give you dimensions and amount of wood used, it is for my house, and this house is TALL. the ceilings are just 3 inches short 8 feet high, and thats much taller than most interior ceilings. (we did this for a few reasons, but mostly it was easier for doing the aluminum 8 feet sheets on the exterior. (they go from 1/2 way up the 2x3 tube steel frame to the top of the ceiling raffters that sat on the top plate. I think they were 1 1/2 inches at the ends, cut with a curve for the rubber roof.)

Anyway, 8 foot ceiling meant we used 7 full horizontal boards and then 1/2 of another to get to the height you see in the picture. We didnt go all the way up to the top or all the way over on the ceiling, as we are leaving an access area for the wiring, if we ever need to run more or have an issue. This access will be another piece of T & G board with the tounge and groves cut off at 45 degree angles and then placed at an angle from the ceiling to the wall, like this:

The carsiding we used was donated by Lowe's, so i dont have a price we paid, but they call it 8" wide. It is actually 6 1/2 inches "working" wide from groove to inside of tounge. (covers a 6 1/2 inch wide area.) We ran out due to extra carsiding on wall beds, so we purchased some from menardss, i think it was 4.56 a board.

(each companies is slightly different size, so buy it all at one place.)

I think it is 3/4 inch thick.

We used 8 and 12 footers. (this gets us 2 4 foot boards per 8 footer and 1 12 footer to do length of wall and ceiling, with no waste)

We also used 12 footers on the verticle areas, as it was less waste.

here is the menards link:

Car Siding

We didnt want finished boards, as it is WAY more expensive, and they are still really clean. I think we had 2 boards that we couldnt use for a whole length due to warping. We cut them down to small sections.

One of you asked about putting it over other paneling. I wouldnt. You will need to screw a piece of wood to some of the rafters to use as a pry bar to suck the boards togehter tight, in some areas.

We face nailed them, and will simply use hole filler on the cieling and the upper walls. Lower walls are being painted flat black...so no need to fill them. We used brad nailers in a nail gun. Worked great.

We are finishing the edges with vinyl 90 degree corner pieces painted black. they are thin and cheap. .79 for 8'. They can be used on the inside or outside corners.

You can see the red stain the upper wall will be, in the picture with the bed frame sitting there. it takes stain very well, but needs to have a conditioner used first. Very easy to apply both on this product.

How many boards?

Hmmm...

It took us 11 boards to do ceiling. Thats 16 feet long x 11.

it took 7 boards to get to the verticle rail. thats 14 boards for both sides x 16 feet.

The back took 7 boards to verticle x 8 feet.

So total horizontal wood and ceiling...

it would have been 4 more boards to the floor. thats 4 x 16 4x 16 and 4x8.

Thats 616 feet of board. You will have waste, but can use most of it to finish cabinets, and other things.

This didnt include the V nose.

BTW, our trailer is 8' Wide.

We used another 20 boards doing the 3 beds, and will use another 15 boards for the cabinets, bathroom area, bathroom wall. etc...

I would guess, at menards price, you are looking at approx $600.00 to do it ALL in pine T&G. On a normal height house, that is 6.5 wide... without 8 inch wide beds x3 and all the cabinets faced in the same stuff...maybe $450.

Brad nailer...$25.

Nails......$15.

Time...not too bad if you cut it right in the house and have a portable table saw to rip it.

AH...you also need another...52 feet for the wire corner covers.

Hope this helps. if i missed anything, let me know here.