Best miter saw for window/door/base trim??

[yoppdk]

I have a new cabin to finish off and will try to do the door, window and base trim myself. I figure a miter saw will be needed, but there seem go be so many variations available - 10 in, 12 in. compound, single or double bevel, etc. Do any of the "pros" out there have any recommendations for the best miter saw for doing trim work? I'd like to get the right saw the first time.

Thanks for your advice ...

[PurpleFloyd]

We use a DeWalt 12" double bevel sliding compound miter saw. The 2 builders we work with build homes in the 750-2M dollar range and that is what all of their trim carpenters use as well. And for the most part I am no fan of DeWalt tools in general but their miter saws are very good.

That being said for a homeowner trimming out their own home there are several saws that are less expensive that will do a very good job and before I forget it, the blade you use is more often the determining factor in the quality of cut as well as how accurately you have it set up.

Rigid has really done a good job of coming up with quality tools and you certainly could look to them as well.

As far as blade size- that depends on what you are cutting. If you are only doing standard base and casing then a 10 inch saw should suffice and for the most part all things being equal a 10 inch blade will be stiffer than a 12 which may lead to cleaner cuts. If you are doing taller trim then step up to a 12. If you are cutting skirt boards for the stairs then a slider is a great tool. A double bevel saw is nice for cutting crown if you lay it flat. We only do that if the crown is bigger than 5 inches.

Getting one of the saw stands that go with the saw is a very nice thing and I would certainly suggest looking at that.

During my time I have used Bosch, Hitachi, Craftsman, DeWalt, Rigid, and probably a few others. My preference is the DeWalt and Rigid over the rest.

[CAMAN]

The Dewalt 10" Compound Miter Saw would be my choice if you are just doing standard size moldings. If you are cutting anything over 6" wide then you will want to step up to a slider.

Be sure you upgrade your blade, the money spent on a quality blade will make your job easier and it will look better.

[yoppdk]

Thanks guys ... this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

[Surface Tension]

PF had some good points on saws, blades, and stands. A good is a must.

I could step onto just about any job with a 10" miter,,, and a coping saw.

Pretty much anything that is run at the ceiling or along the floor will get coped.

The miter will just lay out a line on the profile for me to cope. Inside corners get coped and outside corners get mitered where two 45 angles meet.

I also like Dewalt but like the older Ryobi, and Rockwell.

There are some low cost made in China saws that are not going to last but more important is the level of quality of work you can't do with them. You can't expect much from a $75 compound angle saw.

Here is what I see with guys that aren't in the trade and sort of baulked at it then rethought that to whatever it takes to get it done right. Using a slider instead of a circular saw to cut lengths off dimensional lumber. If that gives you a good, clean, square cut all the power to ya.

For that reason I'd say you might want a 12" slider. Buy a good blade(s) for your interned use because they will warp when they get hot.

[my4x4yj]

I'm not a fan of Dewalt saws, they are not built in my opinion to the quality that the price reflects and own a Bosch 12" slider at home where I build custom furniture and cabinetry, I also work in a custom cabinet shop we use the Dewalt 12" sliders but they are paying for them I just have to figure how to make them work. That being said the first thing to do with any saw is get it square, ie. make the needed adjustments to the saw to make the desired cuts at the angles selected. I then recommend a fine tooth blade for trim work, nothing more frustrating than trying to fix blow outs in the wood caused by an aggressive tooth blade designed to cut dimensional lumber and keep a sharp blade in use, when a blade gets hot and starts burning wood or causing tear outs first cause if dull or damaged teeth. I also make a zero tolerance jig and put on the table of the saw eliminating the large gaps under the material being cut also eliminating a lot of tear outs in certain species of wood that do so easily no mater what you do, mostly I believe because the wood has gotten too dry before using. I also would recommend the compound miter saw as you may run into a lot of corners in an older cabin that are far from 90 degrees and to get the trim to mate up to your satisfaction may need to make appropriate adjustments, cut long and then nibble to fit.

[BoxMN]

I am not pro, but used a milwaukee 10" slider that was kind of "used" but it worked for putting pine walls and ceiling up in small cabin, but the safety stuff and mechanics were a bit cludgey IMO - would not buy one.

I bought a Rigid 12" (non sliding) and much prefer the 12" and the Rigid has been solid for me, and very easy to use. I have lent it out plenty and it seems to always come back in good shape and still square. As mentioned the 12" is needed for 45s on the wider boards. I wish I had double bevel (or whatever it is called that let you angle it both ways, as mine I can only go one way. No biggie, but would be nice and maybe save a mistaken cut now and then at least for me.)

If I was doing it more or BIG boards I would get a 12" slider, but for most stuff I do the 12" standard is awesome. I also put a disc in sometimes for cutting plastic tube (square 4" raingutter for making musky box type stuff), works great.

[Esox_Magnum]

We run a variety of brands at work Fes by far is the best but for what your doing any decent saw will do. I prefer a 10 over the 12 as the 12's seem to twist a little on the slides...

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I am far from a pro. The extent of my woodworking is fish house building, and some furniture and cabinet making. Last year I decided I would spend the money to buy a top notch miter saw and stand. Top notch being defined as "within reason" a.k.a. not a $2,000 saw.

With a totally open mind I read as many reviews as I could on Dewalt, Bosch, Hitachi, Rigid, Craftsman, Milwaukee, and on and on. I ended up with the Milwaukee 6955-20 which is a 12" sliding dual bevel dual compound, and I absolutely love it. It is way overkill for what I use it for, but I know that it will probably last as long as I do, and do anything I want to do with it. The digital angle readout makes replicating odd cuts really easy.

I also highly recommend the Bosch T4B stand.