Briggs & Stratton carb problem

[slammer]

Pulled out the snowblower tonite. Bought it new last year, Airens with a 250cc briggs. Started up fine, ran for about a minute and died. Gas tank is full, pushed primer and fired right up. Ran another minute then died again. Smelled gas and looked by carb and gas was running out of it. Turned off valve on gas tank and it stopped leaking.

I'm not to handy when it comes to carbs. Could this be something simple or major carb repair? Thanks for the help. (It should be covered by warranty but it has to go to a authorized dealer which is an hour away. I'll take it to a local shop and pay them instead of the travel.)

[Jeremy airjer W]

I wonder if you don't have a bad diaphragm. Parts are readily available and an hours worth of time it should be up and running. Laying parts out in the order they are removed and talking step by step pics will make the process go pretty easy. There isn't a whole lot to them but they can be intimidating. Take your time and it should go pretty smooth.

[BoxMN]

Laying parts out in the order they are removed and talking step by step pics will make the process go pretty easy.

Best advice ever! Pics I took when taking my outboard carb apart for the first time saved me. And it is quite easy on a snowblower, even I can do them

[Surface Tension]

The fuel into the carb isn't shutting off. The inlet valve (needle and seat) will close when the float rises. That keeps the fuel level in the bowl when it belongs.

You have a sticky inlet valve or float or debris caught between the needle and seat.

Turn the fuel off and pull the spark plug. Turn the engine over multiple times to blow the fuel out of the cylinder. If you have a new plug put it in, if not dry the old plug off.

With the fuel off start the engine. After it starts turn the fuel on. Hopefully the vibration for the running engine is enough to free up a sticky float or valve.

Before you shut the engine off turn the fuel off and let it run for a short time.

Even if this doesn't solve the fuel flow problem you'll at least be able to use the thrower if you remember to shut the fuel off. If the fuel flow is so much that it floods the engine once the fuel is turned on then the carb will have to be removed and cleaned.

Eventually you'll need to have the carb removed, cleaned and if need be a new inlet valve, float drop adjustment.

[Naturboy]

Just taking the carb off and soaking it in carb cleaner over night can do wonders. It gets rid of the gas residue that can build up.

[slammer]

Thanks everyone. Got a kit from the local shop this morning. He walked me through the rebuild and I'll take pics. He had one taken apart and didn't look too bad. Will attempt it tonite.

[Pat K]

Was the gas treated with Sta-bil or some other gas treatment? Just wondering if it could be a problem cause by jelled fuel or varnish deposits?

[delcecchi]

Typically letting it sit overnight fixes it. I have had this happen a bunch of times and never had to take the carb apart. Needle can also stick closed, which often requires a rap with the handle of a screwdriver.

[slammer]

No bad gas, only use non-oxy. Motor is run dry b/4 storage and fogging oil in the cylinder. Took it apart and the float was full of gas. New float in and runs great. Ran for over an hour. Briggs changed the design of the float from past years I was told and sounds like the verdict is still out if the change is for the better. Two other newer machines in the shop for the same problem. Hope this isn't a yearly problem.

Thanks all for the help!

[delcecchi]

Sounds plausible. Float doesn't float, motor floods.