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Kitchen Leak Issue


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I can't hold back any longer.

Obviously it isn't my house and I didn't see what was going on but it seems to me that a fan to dry it all out, some Kilz to begin the repair and then final coat of paint, and a minor wrenching on the connections is about all that was really needed here. Fiddling with a GFCI is making the thing a whole lot more complicated than needed and just doesn't make sense to me.

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I have seen this things many times over the years in my cabinet business. From my experience, I would cut the sheetrock up 12 inches and remove it, then dry the area inside the stud pocket thoroughly and then put new sheetrock back in there. I would also cut out the subfloor and get a fan down into the floor joists, check for damage and when dry I would replace the subfloor. Then I would take a 4 inch hole saw and drill holes through the bottom end panels of the adjacent cabinets and get some air moving under the base cabinets to dry them out. Mold grows very easily in wet,dark places like that and I have seen cases where water got under cabinets and created mold issues because they didn't get them completely dry. Same with behind sheetrock in walls. The total cost for materials will be small, there will be some work to do it, but in the end you will KNOW that indeed everything is right when you are done. My $.02

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Most of the trades are going to PEX right now. Not a long history so it is hard to judge then right now. Most of the time failures have been using cheap valves instead of copper ball valves and cheap faucets in the sink area. By DW's it is either the cheaper flex hoses that are run from the sink to the DW or bad solder joints in copper but obviously there are as many ways to get a leak as there are leaks.

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subfloor is dry & in excellent condition as is flooring under vinyl. ripped basement ceiling down immediately fri nite, a waterlogged mess of drywall & insulation to say the least but only ended up with a small area that a single 4 x 8 sheet will cover nicely. will c if wife wants to cut holes in lower cabinet wall to check & dry out adjacent side. trusses were pretty wet but should dry out nicely.

had repairman in yesterday cause wife did not trust me (& rightfully so), plastic hose and assembly that carries water to lower arm in unit apparently self destructed and also find small evidence of leak in motor area so instead of $300 for parts plus labor, already found one on sale & just starting fresh.

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Purplefloyd, what types of plumbing do you see leaking/failing more often? I am re-doing our kitchen soon and thinking of what products to use, pex, copper, plastic etc. I don't want leaks.

u need pvc for drains

depends on who is doing the work, pex is cheaper but i think pain in but to work with (too rigid)buy my whole house has it cept where copper is required. when i added difft kitchen sink & faucet myself, i changed connections to water line over to SS flex...much easier to work with IMO

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full-37274-30883-img_52191.jpg

full-37274-30884-img_52181.jpg

i know it may be impossible to decipher from the pics but does anyone think there is a possibility this could be mold on my truss? its really the only place i see these dark spots but they also blend into the grain of wood really well like its natural. have looked at other opened up trusses and do see same thing but very sparatic.

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Hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like natural spots in the wood to me.

Has the area been opened up since the leak? If it was opened up and allowed to dry right away I'd really doubt its mold.

it was opened up as soon as the leaking was noticed, i however expect it had been going on for who knows how long b4 that, drywall was quite wet as was parts of insulation, had mini waterfall couple of times as insulation was pulled so really have no idea how long it could have actually been going on.

i guess idea of spraying with bleach and removing all doubt is a good one.

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